The instructions say feed water. So I don’t know what line to hook up where and if this is right. My girl got it as a girl I point 2 em on RO’s. I thought was a 3 was slider but is just in and out. So I feel I got a when 2 change meter vs resin meter. Let me know thanks. Much love
DTS for resin?
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ihavecrabs
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You really want three points of measurement to ensure the RO membrane is functioning well.
Hope this help!
- Source water (from the tap)
- Water after RO membrane but before DI
- Final water after DI
- Initial reading of tap water will allow you to calculate RO membrane effectiveness. if you have 100 TDS at the tap, you should have 1-4 TDS after the membrane depending on the quality and rejection rate of the membrane itself.
- 1 - (RO TDS / Tap TDS) *100 which would be 1 - (4 / 100)*100 = 96% rejection rate.
- Post RO install - provides you with a constant reading of TDS after the RO membrane and it should be relatively low based on the calculation above. My starting source TDS is ~800 so unless my TDS is coming out of the RO at 14TDS or less, I have a valve that I can turn to send the water down the drain rather than kill my DI resin. Once it gets to acceptable levels, I then send it through the DI chamber.
- Post DI install should always read 0. Once it begins reading 1 TDS, it is time to change out the DI resin.
Hope this help!
Opus
2500 Club Member
To add to ihavecrabs reply, you really only need to check your source water a few times a year. The tds in my water seems to go up as the level of the source water (local lake) goes down. A few years back when the lake was really low I saw my tds go up by about 100. It also seems to be lower in the winter vs the summer for some reason. Also, I suggest investing in a $20 handheld meter. The inline ones are not temperature compensating but the handhelds are. They also are great for checking the inline meter.
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Sir Chris
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I’m sorry I must have asked the question improperly. I’m asking if this is the proper TDS for before the DI membrain and after to see the media it’s % exhausted. I already know what my parts are I’m asking is this for the DI side this seems the supply side
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Sir Chris
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Sorry meant to send it with post but my barrel is zero and my intake is 338 ppm. It’s all BRS as the 4 stage includes the valve so just need the probes to go before the resin and then the other is after the resident to measure its rate of depletion so you’re not wasting expensive resin constantly. I guess no many are familiar with this. I appreciate all the help but I guess it’s a BRS question I’ll ask at lunch tomorrow or I post on a diff category. I thought a lot of peps had these DI testers installed.
ihavecrabs
2500 Club Member
Not sure I understand your question.Sorry meant to send it with post but my barrel is zero and my intake is 338 ppm. It’s all BRS as the 4 stage includes the valve so just need the probes to go before the resin and then the other is after the resident to measure its rate of depletion so you’re not wasting expensive resin constantly. I guess no many are familiar with this. I appreciate all the help but I guess it’s a BRS question I’ll ask at lunch tomorrow or I post on a diff category. I thought a lot of peps had these DI testers installed.
You should be getting around 6-8 TDS reading after the RO membrane but before your DI if you have a 98% rejection rate membrane (and your source stays at 338). If you are out of that range, you'll need yo troubleshoot.
One fitting goes before the DI (In), one goes after the di (out). Before I set mine up, up temporarily put the in meter right after the hose connection, to find my incoming tds number. Then I removed the fitting and put it back the way it was originally. Then installed it pre and post di and left it there
