Duncan dying I have no idea why!!! help...

ok, i think i'm going to do 10% water changes to get the chemicals in balance for the next 7 days. that should bring everything to where it should be, correct? during this time would you dose or not dose? not dose, right? i use tropic marin pro reef salt. can i dip the duncan in iodine in general without gluing and hope that the 'infection' goes away? or will that be bad....?


i also did not have my lights on a timer and need to probably do a better job with lighting for the corals being predictable.
 
ok, i think i'm going to do 10% water changes to get the chemicals in balance for the next 7 days. that should bring everything to where it should be, correct? during this time would you dose or not dose? not dose, right? i use tropic marin pro reef salt. can i dip the duncan in iodine in general without gluing and hope that the 'infection' goes away? or will that be bad....?


i also did not have my lights on a timer and need to probably do a better job with lighting for the corals being predictable.
Consistency/stability in everything is more important than anything. Whether that apply to chemistry/lighting/temperature/flow - the more consistency you can provide the better they will generally do.

The water changes should get you closer to where you need to be (I would say your target should be at or near where your salt mixes to) chemistry-wise. Depending on your tank's demand, 10% may get you where you need to be without dosing that day, it may not. I can't really say without more info (you'll have to test, basically).

For the duncan, you don't want a short dip in a solution of iodine and tank water (which will be discarded after). Look up a couple videos on YouTube if you haven't done this before. I'd just put the piece back where it's accustomed to for now if it was really happy for a while like you say until it starts coming back from its damage and opening up again.
 
Consistency/stability in everything is more important than anything. Whether that apply to chemistry/lighting/temperature/flow - the more consistency you can provide the better they will generally do.

The water changes should get you closer to where you need to be (I would say your target should be at or near where your salt mixes to) chemistry-wise. Depending on your tank's demand, 10% may get you where you need to be without dosing that day, it may not. I can't really say without more info (you'll have to test, basically).

For the duncan, you don't want a short dip in a solution of iodine and tank water (which will be discarded after). Look up a couple videos on YouTube if you haven't done this before. I'd just put the piece back where it's accustomed to for now if it was really happy for a while like you say until it starts coming back from its damage and opening up again.
i think i had it in too much flow. it was happy but way too much flow so i thought it was ok. i moved it so it would be less likely to lose the pigments. it seems to have slowed down but still concerned. what salinity is best? i have it 1.025 but just noticed my tunze has a slow leak that dilutes it until the valve floats up. the water in my resevoir aparently is higher than the sump...but i thought it was just when the pump was higher than the sump...that sucks! what's the point of having a larger resevoir? its not that much higher... water level wise.
 
You didn't mention your salinity, and what you're measuring with. The calcium is on the high side, that could indicate a over dosing, or high salinity.
+1 on the iodine or coral dip.
i have coral dip...let me see what i have...coral rx. contains no iodine.
 
i perhaps went a bit nuts on trace elements...perhaps....
 
You didn't mention your salinity, and what you're measuring with. The calcium is on the high side, that could indicate a over dosing, or high salinity.
+1 on the iodine or coral dip.
salinity 1.025 . it did dip down to 1.023 because of ato tunze issue the other day when i noticed it was unhappy but over a few hours brought it up to 1.025 again with water change.
 

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