Durso drain noise reduction

I’m don’t have a PhD in Fluid Dynamics, but i am pretty sure the noise you’re getting is due to air being in the drain line. Since the durso must be vented, the line will always have air in it, and will always have some noise. Velocity would just aggravate this turbulent interface between the air and water, but practically speaking it will always be noisy at any flows we’d care about in our tanks. The only way to evacuate the air is to convert the line to a full siphon w/ a gate valve, but then you definitely want that emergency overflow line in case of snails, long term buildup, etc. I suppose one alternative to the emergency drain would be to put a leak sensor with some logic in a controller to kill your return pump if the level gets too high. That said, I am always a belt and suspenders kind of guy when it comes to matters of wife acceptance factor, and WAF would be pretty low if the place got flooded.
WAF is not too high here lol but my pump would run dry before flooding thank god. I can flood it manually all by myself like I did filling up with fresh water the other day lol
 
Fortunately, my sump is sized correctly, so I wouldn’t worry about a drain clog. You don’t think adding a valve with the durso would help ? Thanks for all the help
The durso is acting as the gate basically. Instead of restricting the flow down by gating it with a valve, you are letting air into the down pipe thus breaking the full siphon and slowing it down. If you do both, I imagine the water will cover the durso and it will just be a funny looking downpipe as the valve itself will probably be doing most of the work slowing things down.
 
WAF is not too high here lol but my pump would run dry before flooding thank god. I can flood it manually all by myself like I did filling up with fresh water the other day lol

Cheers to that. [emoji482] We've all been there. Just gotta be quick on the draw with the towels and hope the wife doesn't ask why you've suddenly starting running all around the house.

Anyway, don't forget to consider your ATO - since it will start adding more water to the system whenever the return pump section's level drops even a little bit. So your display tank would need to accommodate the volume in your return pump section between normal water height and whenever the pumps run dry + the maximum amount your ATO will pump in before it either times out or runs out of water. Lastly, Murphy always wins, so assume this will happen while you're on vacation for a week. So how long are you ok with letting your system run in that failed state?
 
Cheers to that. [emoji482] We've all been there. Just gotta be quick on the draw with the towels and hope the wife doesn't ask why you've suddenly starting running all around the house.

Anyway, don't forget to consider your ATO - since it will start adding more water to the system whenever the return pump section's level drops even a little bit. So your display tank would need to accommodate the volume in your return pump section between normal water height and whenever the pumps run dry + the maximum amount your ATO will pump in before it either times out or runs out of water. Lastly, Murphy always wins, so assume this will happen while you're on vacation for a week. So how long are you ok with letting your system run in that failed state?
:( So true...
 
I spent many many hours trying to quiet my durso in the sump. I almost went crazy. I know as reefkeepers we're trying to replicate the ocean, but mine actually sounded like breakers on the beach! I have a box full of PVC pieces, fittings, valves, air tubes, etc that were all useless. The only thing that worked, kind of, was putting a valve on my return pump to cut the flow. But then I had very low flow. The problem is my 1"drain was too small to run at only partial siphon.
So I was faced with 3 options: operate with low flow, drill bigger holes in my tank for bigger drains, or convert to Herbie drains.
I converted to Herbie. Best decision I've made on my tank so far. It's silent! I mean, I can't hear it at all!
 
I converted to Herbie. Best decision I've made on my tank so far. It's silent! I mean, I can't hear it at all!

+1 My Red Sea Reefer essentially has a Herbie from the factory. Dead silent! Seriously, no noise from the drain whatsoever when it's tuned properly. The only sound I get now is a slight trickle in the next sump compartment as the water falls through the filter socks, but raising the level in the sump makes that inaudible with the stand doors closed. Anyways, so much love for the Herbie vs my old Durso junkbox on my old tank (no offense to Mr. Durso ;), I'm sure it was a poor implementation)
 
Herbie it is.... new holes drilled for return.

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haha, happy to help! The herbie/beanimal really is next-level awesome compared to a standalone durso.

Nice job with the drilling, btw. Just one thing I want to ask because I've had some annoying experience with bulkheads that loosened over time and were a pain in the butt to tighten - how hard would it be to get a hand or adjustable pliers on those bulkheads if you need to tighten them up down the road a bit? It looks like you've got enough room to slip the pliers between the tank and the wall, but hard to say for sure from the pic
 
haha, happy to help! The herbie/beanimal really is next-level awesome compared to a standalone durso.

Nice job with the drilling, btw. Just one thing I want to ask because I've had some annoying experience with bulkheads that loosened over time and were a pain in the *** to tighten - how hard would it be to get a hand or adjustable pliers on those bulkheads if you need to tighten them up down the road a bit? It looks like you've got enough room to slip the pliers between the tank and the wall, but hard to say for sure from the pic
Believe it or not my 2 brain cells clicked and thought about that. I have just enough room to play with the plumbing... and I will test. But what I have found out with the schedule 80 bulkheads is that they need a 1/8-1/4 turn with channel locks.... I learned this on the first water test with the original holes (and yes I cleaned properly and new bulkheads)...... WAF is at an all time high!!!
 
And I really was nervous drilling as this was my first time but it really wasn’t that bad.... hardest part was moving the tank.....
 
Believe it or not my 2 brain cells clicked and thought about that. I have just enough room to play with the plumbing... and I will test. But what I have found out with the schedule 80 bulkheads is that they need a 1/8-1/4 turn with channel locks.... I learned this on the first water test with the original holes (and yes I cleaned properly and new bulkheads)...... WAF is at an all time high!!!
woohoo! Looks like you've got enough WAF headroom to dump a bunch of money into livestock pretty soon
 
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Congratulations, you really worked hard to problem solve since your first post! Anyway, I see you are using these same flaired lock-line end pieces. I have been mentioning to people that by keeping mine 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the water, it prevents my system from forming a siphon when the power goes out or the pump goes into feeding mode. Just a tip that has worked for me. Best wishes.
 
woohoo! Looks like you've got enough WAF headroom to dump a bunch of money into livestock pretty soon
Haha, I have started those conversations but I don’t think she fully understands the price of this hobby (either do I lol)
 
642ef239-2eca-4551-a715-28fc5d03986a-jpeg.856898

Congratulations, you really worked hard to problem solve since your first post! Anyway, I see you are using these same flaired lock-line end pieces. I have been mentioning to people that by keeping mine 1/2 in and 1/2 out of the water, it prevents my system from forming a siphon when the power goes out or the pump goes into feeding mode. Just a tip that has worked for me. Best wishes.
All I can say is thank you all for your guidance and giving me the confidence moving forward. Thank god for this forum and people like you giving us the helping hand!
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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