Dyno

  • Thread starter Thread starter kp33
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users None
My tank is never above 20 nitrates and phosphate is generally .05-.08 it’s not a new tank it’s at least 11 years old. I don’t do weekly water changes already I’m normally if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, it’s always worked with my tank so I would say I do water changes once a month. I do get algae on my glass quite a bit, and have sone hair algae going on but not very much. My blues run from 2pm-10pm woth the white coming on at 4-6. I also see where micro7 is good for new tanks so can I use it on my old tank?

How do I do step 5, never have done that before.
 
They might not be dinos then. The only sure way to tell is under a microscope.

I put a filter suck in the sump and run the water hose through there. So instead of the bucket, it goes right back into the sump without pulling water out of the system.
 
My tank is never above 20 nitrates and phosphate is generally .05-.08 it’s not a new tank it’s at least 11 years old. I don’t do weekly water changes already I’m normally if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, it’s always worked with my tank so I would say I do water changes once a month. I do get algae on my glass quite a bit, and have sone hair algae going on but not very much. My blues run from 2pm-10pm woth the white coming on at 4-6.

How do I do step 5, never have done that before.
As for nitrates, imo, others will disagree, don't go below 10 ppm on nitrates.
 
They might not be dinos then. The only sure way to tell is under a microscope.

I put a filter suck in the sump and run the water hose through there. So instead of the bucket, it goes right back into the sump without pulling water out of the system.
Ah ok makes sense on the water thing, as soon as I told my LFS there were air bubble trapped in dark skinny strands that what he said it was immediately. Not sure if you saw the pics I attached.
 
2 days ago nitrate 17 phosphate was .07
Yeah, I really don't see dinos taking hold in the tank with those parameters, unless something happened to your biofilter which I don't think it did. I think you can try to remove some of that algae out and add microbacter7. Give it a month and see what's going on. Sometimes people fight dinos, if what you have are dinos, for months. I was lucky to get rid of it in about a month.
 
I have had it for well over a month whatever it is can’t get rid of it haven’t tried anything g mentioned in any of these post except water charges and keeping phosphates down . I see turning up the water temp Amy help killing the lights for theee days can you tell from the pics what it may be it’s definitely not hair algae because whatever it is is skinny long dark and traps air bubbles as you can see from the pics.
 
"100x better when compared to MicroBacter7." How did you come to that conclusion?
You think magic bottle of Microbacter7 that might have few strains of bacteria (probably mostly dead by the time you get it home) is better compared to fresh live rock from ocean with probably billions types of different bacteria…. By the ratio alone of bacteria diversity fresh live rock is better.
But hey please educate me…

If you actually read what I recommended it is this:
1696166698452.jpeg

Few fresh ocean lI’ve rocks to replenish the bacteria. Put them in a sump.

Also for the record I did not suggest to replace his rock work.
 
Yeah, I really don't see dinos taking hold in the tank with those parameters,
Made a suggestion in reply 4 to use microscope.
But if you look at the picture in post 1 it does have bubbles and looks like a snot.

I have not had to deal with them for 4+ years and last time I used microscope to make the identification.
 
I have had it for well over a month whatever it is can’t get rid of it haven’t tried anything g mentioned in any of these post except water charges and keeping phosphates down . I see turning up the water temp Amy help killing the lights for theee days can you tell from the pics what it may be it’s definitely not hair algae because whatever it is is skinny long dark and traps air bubbles as you can see from the pics.

You think magic bottle of Microbacter7 that might have few strains of bacteria (probably mostly dead by the time you get it home) is better compared to fresh live rock from ocean with probably billions types of different bacteria…. By the ratio alone of bacteria diversity fresh live rock is better.
But hey please educate me…

If you actually read what I recommended it is this:
1696166698452.jpeg

Few fresh ocean lI’ve rocks to replenish the bacteria. Put them in a sump.

Also for the record I did not suggest to replace his rock work.
You're assuming that the LR was being treated with love by the LFS. Sure, you can't replace nature, but the hyperbolic statement that it's 100x times better is a bit out there. The available products are formulated specifically for our needs. Often some of the bacteria are in a dormant state, the products are designed to seed the tank and let the bacteria grow under the right conditions. There is also always a risk of adding undesirable hitchhikers to the tank when using LR. I have LR in my tanks, for close to two decades now. I fully appreciate their benefits, however, dismissing the commercial products, especially to a new reefer is a bit irresponsible. Products like Microbacter7 have been vetted by us for a long time and have overwhelmingly positive feedback.
 
Made a suggestion in reply 4 to use microscope.
But if you look at the picture in post 1 it does have bubbles and looks like a snot.

I have not had to deal with them for 4+ years and last time I used microscope to make the identification.
I agree, if it looks like dinos, in most cases it is dinos.
 
I think I may have dyno, any suggestions on how to rid of it? The reason I think it’s dyno is is thin dark strands and it has air bubbles, when I told my LFS and as soon as I said small air bubbles he said dyno. He said I can try macro 7 something ? Never had to deal with dyno before so need sone help here please.

IMG_3886.jpeg IMG_3885.jpeg
this may be early stage dino.
Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure . Its important though to identify the type of dino for most effective battle.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10% IF you have light dependant corals such as SPS) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights which works as an oxidizer. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED AMINO OR ADD NOPOX which is food for dinos, however you can feed coral, food which will help no3 and po4 to increase. If increasing nutrients, try to keep no3 to about 5 until you are done battling these cells.
Doing a daily siphoning will help greatly But . . . . . Siphoning will reduce nutrients , so siphon the water into/through a filter sock and save the water and return it back to tank. Obviously clean the filter sock each time.
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them
 
Products like Microbacter7 have been vetted by us for a long time and have overwhelmingly positive feedback.
Hmmmm….. just like Vibrant????
Vibrant was also vetted by the so called “us”.

So who exactly vetted this live rock in a bottle and what is exactly inside.

Brightwell is really good at nice slogans but I don’t buy it 100%.

But I make a deal, if Randy comes into this chat and states, Pod this Micro Bacter7 is a live rock in a bottle I will change my mind…
Till then magic potion with some perceived benefits from some users.
 
Dino (dinoflagellates) do love bright lights, nice clean rock and nutrients on the surface of the rocks and they are one of the hardest pests to deal with. They are always in the tank and just look for the ideal conditions to flourish.

Best way to deal with them is to outcompete them by having coral mass on the rock.
If your tank is in the early stages you might want to dial down the lights. Also try to build up biofilm and that is where the suggestion of MicroBacter7 comes in.

Good luck,
Are there a type of snail or invertebrate that eats it?
 
Hmmmm….. just like Vibrant????
Vibrant was also vetted by the so called “us”.

So who exactly vetted this live rock in a bottle and what is exactly inside.

Brightwell is really good at nice slogans but I don’t buy it 100%.

But I make a deal, if Randy comes into this chat and states, Pod this Micro Bacter7 is a live rock in a bottle I will change my mind…
Till then magic potion with some perceived benefits from some users.
Can you tell me what you are getting on every piece of LR? Who handled it, and how it was handled? How long it was sitting in the store and what it was exposed to? I can tell you from experience that MB7 worked for me. I don't care if they put monkey poop in it, it worked. I never used Vibrant, so I can't speak to it.
 
Last edited:
Can you tell me what you are getting on every piece of LR?
Well since it is from the ocean I would expect it to have ocean related bacteria. What do you think?

Who handled it, and how it was handled? How long it was sitting in the store and what it was exposed to?
You need to inquire from your LFS, I am not going to guess.
If I was getting live rock I can tell you I would inquire… You know trust but verify….

MB7 worked for me. I don't care if they put monkey poop in it, it worked.
If that works for you I am not going to question your choice. It is your tank after all so experiment away (poop and all..).

But, I do question ambiguous magic bottles that make outrageous claims, I don’t blindly put things in my tank, that would be silly.
There are number of other choices to Microbacter!!!! Live rock is one.

For the record I been reefing for 7+ years and while I might not have 1000+ posts, nor do I claim to know everything about reefing, I do know few things, what likely works and what is likely inflated claim. Also I tried few things and in reefing it is hard to tell the difference between cause and effect….

Anyway some pictures to calm down the situation:
1696174443559.jpeg


1696174476005.jpeg


Hopefully OP can remedy his Dino’s.
 
Ok let’s get focused again haha so for now I’m killing lights for 3-5 days and adding micro7? I also read where turning up temp help kills Dino as well?
 
Well since it is from the ocean I would expect it to have ocean related bacteria. What do you think?


You need to inquire from your LFS, I am not going to guess.
If I was getting live rock I can tell you I would inquire… You know trust but verify….


If that works for you I am not going to question your choice. It is your tank after all so experiment away (poop and all..).

But, I do question ambiguous magic bottles that make outrageous claims, I don’t blindly put things in my tank, that would be silly.
There are number of other choices to Microbacter!!!! Live rock is one.

For the record I been reefing for 7+ years and while I might not have 1000+ posts, nor do I claim to know everything about reefing, I do know few things, what likely works and what is likely inflated claim. Also I tried few things and in reefing it is hard to tell the difference between cause and effect….

Anyway some pictures to calm down the situation:
1696174443559.jpeg


1696174476005.jpeg


Hopefully OP can remedy his Dino’s.
I don’t mind adding live rock but have no room in sump so I woujd have to replace the mold with the new and then I wonder is that like cycling again and will I lose coral and fish? Beautiful corals btw, I ca t get mine to do that.

So do the Dino’s inhibit coral growth as well? If I’m reading all this correctly.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

New Posts

Back
Top