Dynos sticking around

[scooter24]

I got a little lazy for a while and had hair algae growing. I manually removed 99.9% and added phosgard to bring my phosphates down and that needed up tanking my phosphates. A few days later I had dynos growing. It was all over my rock and sand. I manually removed most of it and killed lights for a few days and it was 99.9% gone. It’s been a few weeks and I can’t get the last little bit to stay away any advice? I did add a Uv sterilizer and my water perameters have been stable for a few weeks. Tank isn’t new it’s a few years old and well established.
ammonia-0
Nitrite-0
Nitrate-10-12
Dkh-8.5
Phosphate-0.08
Mg-1320
Ca-490

 

[Rowboman]

The thing that finally got rid of my Dino’s was carbon dosing to increase the bacterial population to the point where it crowded them out. It’s kinda counterintuitive to how Dino’s are usually treated since it lowers phosphate and nitrate levels, but it definitely worked for me. That being said, it comes with its own risks and often can lead to a cyano outbreak so it’s probably not worth the risks to treat just a small patch

 

[taricha]

The thing that finally got rid of my Dino’s was carbon dosing to increase the bacterial population to the point where it crowded them out. It’s kinda counterintuitive to how Dino’s are usually treated since it lowers phosphate and nitrate levels, but it definitely worked for me. That being said, it comes with its own risks and often can lead to a cyano outbreak so it’s probably not worth the risks to treat just a small patch

Beuchat did a nice article on this.
https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/dinoflagelates-a-disruptive-treatment.873/

 

[Troylee]

H202 dose 1ml per 10 gallons when light are out! I’ve had extremely good luck with just that against that strain… the sand dwellers not so much..

 

[Rowboman]

Beuchat did a nice article on this.
https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/dinoflagelates-a-disruptive-treatment.873/

I actually found this article when I was dealing with them and it’s what convinced me to try carbon dosing

 

[doubleshot00]

You need a microscope to properly ID the dinos you have. Two different treatments.

 

[scooter24]

You need a microscope to properly ID the dinos you have. Two different treatments.

Got around Sunday to getting the ID of them, They are ostreopsis

 

[brandon429]

Beuchats article is 100% writing and no actual jobs done though... not sure why it's a reference. How many gallons is this tank

If his article was about ten forum tanks he fixed here + how his method worked on demand then it would be a great reference. It's opposite of that, = a theory article

 

[vetteguy53081]

Got around Sunday to getting the ID of them, They are ostreopsis

Large cell amphidium. This type tends to stay under the sand and requires certain steps to bring it to surface as UV and chemicals dont always address this type. Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure in your tank.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

 

[scooter24]

Beuchats article is 100% writing and no actual jobs done though... not sure why it's a reference. How many gallons is this tank

If his article was about ten forum tanks he fixed here + how his method worked on demand then it would be a great reference. It's opposite of that, = a theory article

My tank? It’s a 20g nuvo

 

[scooter24]

Large cell amphidium. This type tends to stay under the sand and requires certain steps to bring it to surface as UV and chemicals dont always address this type. Its biological deficiencies that are causing the dino structure in your tank.
No light is first key followed by the addition of bacteria to overcome the bad bacteria allowing them to thrive
Prepare by starting by blowing this stuff loose with a turkey baster and siphon up loose particles. Turn lights off (at least white and run blue at 10-15% IF you have light dependant corals) for 5 days and at night dose 1ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons for all 5 nights. If you dont have light dependent coral- turn all lights off. During the day dose 1ml of liquid bacteria (such as micro bacter 7 or XLM) per 10 gallons. Clean filters daily and DO NOT FEED CORAL FOODS OR ADD NOPOX
You can feed fish as normal and if doing blackout, ambient light in room will work for them

I blew off all the rock and my Zoa plugs with my fill hose when I did my water change. And for the past 24hrs I have had the tank in a black out situation. I have it wrapped up with two blankets so it’s got no light. I was going to do that for a few days. I have zoas, one hammer and a hand full of rock flower nems. I was thinking a 3 day blackout Followed by a good sand syphon with another water change. My UV light is Currently running.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I blew off all the rock and my Zoa plugs with my fill hose when I did my water change. And for the past 24hrs I have had the tank in a black out situation. I have it wrapped up with two blankets so it’s got no light. I was going to do that for a few days. I have zoas, one hammer and a hand full of rock flower nems. I was thinking a 3 day blackout Followed by a good sand syphon with another water change. My UV light is Currently running.

This type stubborn and you will likely need 5 days minimum but you are on your way.

 

[brandon429]

I won’t jam up your thread with rip clean examples unless you want to see one

the truth is per the threads I have: nanos don’t subscribe to the same rules large tanks must use

Identification of species doesn’t matter to us because a rip clean is taking apart your tank and cleaning it in a way that preserves the cycle perfectly but excludes dinos cells on the reassembled tank.

Sticking in a siphon hose and siphoning up growth and turkey bastering the rocks removes some mass, but also redistributes a lot of mass as swirling waste around in the tank, it’s not thorough. If you went to a dentist after no cleanings for five years, and they gave you their very best mouthwash to use once then leave the facility that’d be an equivalent outcome.

a rip clean is doing to your tank what a real deep cleaning below the gum line does from your dentist, full mouth flushing, the benefits holds for months not days due to the detailed effort / a true difference

hours of detailed work in one day accomplishes what the best dinos controls methods for large tanks can do over eight months wait AND heavy luck is needed for it to work. We simply command our wins. Your tank would take four hours or less to clean.

because your tank is accessible in the ways large tanks aren’t, you get to circumvent all their headaches and months of invasion, you simply have a way to cause total cleanliness in your reef which invigorates it, and makes your dinos management about 98% easier and your tank looks fantastic the whole time. Large tanks can’t get that.

not being told of the differences in dinos handling between nanos and small tanks is a huge gap I find in Beauchats work and the two six hundred page dinos thread from the nuisance algae forum which is wrecking nearly all the testers with endless gha-cyano-dinos invasions cyclically


if the authors would just let nano reefers know of the truth vs concealing it, a massive subsection of reefs here (nanos) could get right off the invasion wheel first pass. They won’t, they treat all dinos tanks the same so that’s why I’m on a soapbox lol.

 

[brandon429]

in the morning, before

in the afternoon, after

that’s one example from about two hundred we have on file. To this day none of us know what that species was, because we don’t care to know, identification has no basis in nano invasion fixes and neither do your tank parameters

 

[brandon429]

writing about dinos that doesn’t immediately give nano reef owners this information (especially after seeing these results the last eight years here) I feel is purposely withholding information trying to sway readers into lesser methods.


I think the non nano methods are crucial for large tanks though, they have no other options other than acting through the water and via chemistry

 

[scooter24]

writing about dinos that doesn’t immediately give nano reef owners this information (especially after seeing these results the last eight years here) I feel is purposely withholding information trying to sway readers into lesser methods.


I think the non nano methods are crucial for large tanks though, they have no other options other than acting through the water and via chemistry

That is one thing I like about my nano is I can just tear it apart and clean it. I did in fact do that and scrubbed the rock outside the tank and vacuumed the sand but that last 1% was still there. Doing a 4 day blackout seemed to do the trick!! So far it’s stayed away fingers crossed it gone for a long time

 

[brandon429]

When I wrote what I said above it wasn't to inflame, it's to relay a truth about information suppression

GHA - Losing the battle

Key planning brainstorms for your setup: Before initiation I think you should rasp clean 2-3 rocks for practice that way the greater system is running normal with no rush It's tricky to get in the crevices since we don't use brushes: brushes crush up invader bits and smash them into the rock-...

www.reef2reef.com

I got that job above in chat, by posting what I'd wrote here earlier in the week

Look at the final post from the tank owner

Look at the stickies at the top of this forum, notice how this method isn't there? Do any of the stickied methods have a cure as fast as we just earned above

We don't need to be stickied to fix reefs right and left, it's just handy to note that lesser methods get all the easy focus and don't have to actually earn anything to be stickies. They can be six hundred pages of tradeoff invasions cycling among dinos, gha and cyano and they'll just stay five more years

=comfort from the mods, it's easy to not investigate changing methods. We'll continue actually fixing tanks even without any stickies, usually done in private chat.