Defective_Weeble
Salty
To clarify - I run an XR15 on my frag tank at 35% and it's WAY more than enough light. I've bleached stuff at 35%, so I'll typically start new frags toward the outside and then gradually move them in.
Ecotech Marine XR15 Pro - Help !
- Thread starter cobraz
- Start date
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To clarify - I run an XR15 on my frag tank at 35% and it's WAY more than enough light. I've bleached stuff at 35%, so I'll typically start new frags toward the outside and then gradually move them in.
dbrewsky
Active Member
Lighting is not straight forward especially for leds. Nobody can provide you a exact % that is best for your tank. You best action would probably be lower the intensity until you can get a hold of a quality par meter. Tuningleds you really need to a have a par monitor to get a feel for what is actually happening in the tank. Many local reef stores/clubs will often have a unit available to borrow/rent. One thing to remember is that you can kill corals very quickly with intense light but they will often live for extended periods with lower than optimal lighting.
OP
OP
cobraz
Zoo Hunter
Thanks.... I called Ecotech and I have to say like many people that complain about their Tech Support - it is horrible.
I got so frustrated, I was asking questions and he could not answer not one - with a tech "Chris" I hung up.
I understand the PAR values and tank variations...
But here is a simple question... if you build and design a product - you must have tested it - to come up with the design.
All their info is based on height above water only and spread of light based on lens.
Not one simple value for height above water+deep of SPS coral at base = % min... sounds too simple to me.
Going back to 35%.... also I noticed at 50% where I had it - when mouse over set points it says 31% - so if it's set at 50% intensity - why does the set point say 31% ?
I am starting to think AI might be a better light from all the reviews I have read from users.
dbrewsky
Active Member
bulk reef supply did some real world testing in their led video featuring a radion. You may find some correlation from this test utilizing water and a li-cor par meter. To further complicate issues, many manufacturers par charts are based on transmission through air not water....
I agree that led makers need to step up and at least provide a few usable charts and it wouldn't be that difficult to make a calculator that would give you approx. values based on the led configuration you select.
I agree that led makers need to step up and at least provide a few usable charts and it wouldn't be that difficult to make a calculator that would give you approx. values based on the led configuration you select.
Defective_Weeble
Salty
The best that I can figure is that 50% is the MAX intensity that the light would output if all color sliders were at 100%. Given that you probably have the right side channels down below 100% the actual output will be 31%. I've not paid much attention to the "actual" output and just run my lights based on the "maximum" output number. I think you'd drive yourself nuts trying to do anything else.
Kungpaoshizi
Valuable Member
Maybe I missed it, but what lenses are we talking about here?
I've used 80 and 90 degree lenses on 2 different lights, they suck. They're freakin lazers.
Moving to a 120 lense on the xr30 made all the difference in the world. Now I'm up to about 70% with more of a radiant color scheme vs growth (blueish vs whiteish) and things are doing quite well. In hindsight I don't think 80/90's are appropriate unless you have a 3 or 4 ft deep tank.
I've used 80 and 90 degree lenses on 2 different lights, they suck. They're freakin lazers.
Moving to a 120 lense on the xr30 made all the difference in the world. Now I'm up to about 70% with more of a radiant color scheme vs growth (blueish vs whiteish) and things are doing quite well. In hindsight I don't think 80/90's are appropriate unless you have a 3 or 4 ft deep tank.
