EFFECT OF TIME ON NITRATE TESTS

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Digicop

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While this conclusion is probably common knowledge for all of you journeymen out there, it may help another newbie like me, which is why I am wasting your time posting the results.

I am very new to the saltwater aquarium world and did an experiment this morning to figure out if when you measure Nitrates using a color-based test, does measurement time make a dramatic difference. Turns out, it does. Immediately after testing, the test shows almost no Nitrate and at 13 minutes shows around 10 ppm. However, between collection and 5 minutes, the spread is 2-5 ppm. Plus, I can't distinguish the difference in measurements by eye alone.

For this test, I used the API Nitrate Test Kit ($13.00) with an expiration date of 2/2024. I collected a sample and took photographs using an Iphone X at 30sec, 1, 3, 5 and 13-minute intervals. The photographs were taken in a diffusion box beneath 5600K lights. The photographs were imported into Adobe Photoshop where I color corrected using a curves adjustment layer and an 18% grey card. I then measured the chart and test with the eyedropper tool set on HSB (HUE, SATURATION, BRIGHTNESS). I then measured the hue for the guide chart and the different tests.

The guide chart measurements were:
0 ppm = 55 HUE
5 ppm = 44 HUE
10 ppm = 41 HUE
20 ppm = 34 HUE

I then made the following measurements and estimated ppm using the hue from the guide chart:
30 sec = 53 | Estimated ppm 2
1 min = 49 | Estimated ppm 3
3 min = 45 | Estimated ppm 4
5 min = 44 | Estimated ppm 5
13 min = 42| Estimated ppm 9

I found adjusting the image to perfect exposure using the grey card made very little difference in the test results.

30 Seconds:
IMG_4496.JPG


1 minute:
IMG_4497.JPG


3 minutes:
IMG_4498.JPG


5 minutes:
IMG_4499.JPG


13 minutes 30 seconds:
IMG_4500.JPG



__________________________________________________________________________
Ricky Gray
Lafayette, LA
48 gallon octagon saltwater running Aqueon cannister canister filter and Fluval Sea LED lights. Tank was started 12/26/2019.
 
yes time matters but you should only wait for as long as instructions indicate any less or more you will get an inaccurate reading
 
I’ve never used API but I believe Salifert asks you to wait 3 minutes. I have noticed if I let it sit, it turns from pink to more purple in color. So I take my reading at the 3 minute mark as suggested per that particular kit. Typically API kits are frowned upon in this hobby. I’ve never used so I can’t say but their ammonia kit is supposedly really good.
 
API states for 5 minutes. I will try another brand for the next purchase.
 
Very interesting, following...

While a bit more of an initial time consumer, taking pictures under a consistent light source and then comparing the hue might take some of the guess work out of the test.

It'll be very interesting to see your results with a different test kit, especially if you can compare it along side the API.
 
It depends upon the test's chemistry. The method I use - cadmium-reduction - is time sensitive, and will read higher as time goes by (recommended reaction time is 5 minutes.)
 
Nice post. Found the color correction method interesting. The time is to allow the titrant or indicator to react with the sample. Suspect time is based on volume of sample and titrant.
 
API gives you a general idea of where you're at. I never had an issue with them. Yes, as others stated, the reading goes further off the longer you wait. This applies to Salifert Nitrate Kit as well.
 
I haven't used API on SW, but used extensively on FW. Color develops over time as well but I believe instructions say on FW that once time is reached it's good for a few minutes. And I've left for hours after test complete and found little change.

Suspect that in SW the time is important because it's an incomplete reaction and is dependent on reaction rates.

Doesn't change anything, follow directions, just find it interesting.
 
My Salifert test states to check after 3 minutes. I always time it because there is a difference between 4 and huge difference 5+. I’m sure there are lots of people out there that miss this extremely important detail. Not too long ago I saw someone mention 5 mins for Salifert... :(
 
Typically API kits are frowned upon in this hobby. I’ve never used so I can’t say but their ammonia kit is supposedly really good.
API Ammonia kits tends to show .25 even when there is no ammonia. Many post here on R2R about it.
 
I like API's nitrite kit because there is a drastic difference between 0 and everything else. The ammonia kit isn't too bad, the "0" color looks like the .25 on the chart but when you reference your tank with new fresh salt mix you see it's the same color and if you happen to get a test of water with ammonia it's clearly different than 0. The problem is the color reference chart just plain sucks and scares people. They probably use a budget printing company that poorly translates the accurate colors on the chart card.

The lazy me kind of likes API for daily testing; I will use more in-depth/timely test kits like red sea pro and hanna ULR phosphate when I want to dive into the most accurate numbers I can when doing more in depth troubleshooting. That being said, once we get used to our tanks we get an idea on what our stable numbers should be. Some of the API kits are so fast and easy I don't care about accurate results as I am not looking for detailed data but rather a quickly daily test to establish trends.

Hobby grade kits IMO are good for determining trends. The second I truly believe I have 10vs25 nitrates in my Salifert color chart is when I may make stupid un-needed changes to correct what's not a problem. When every day my test kit is light pink (regardless if 5-10) I know that if it's dark pink something changed.

Same way with these non hanna po4 kits. Under 0.1 they are almost impossible to read as you don't really start to see blue color until 0.1. If my tank is typically 0.02-0.03 I may still use them as i'm just making sure it's clear on the result. The second I see a hint of blue I know something big has happened; my corals usually tell me when i'm on the low side of 0.02 really quick.
 
Last edited:
Thought about getting a simpler spot check test...API or maybe some test strips just for those times when I'm curious, but don't want to break out the big boxes. Also for when I make up saltwater. I never test for anything but salinity but have been thinking that's probably not sufficient.
 
I like API's nitrite kit because there is a drastic difference between 0 and everything else. The ammonia kit isn't too bad, the "0" color looks like the .25 on the chart but when you reference your tank with new fresh salt mix you see it's the same color and if you happen to get a test of water with ammonia it's clearly different than 0. The problem is the color reference chart just plain sucks and scares people. They probably use a budget printing company that poorly translates the accurate colors on the chart card.

The lazy me kind of likes API for daily testing; I will use more in-depth/timely test kits like red sea pro and hanna ULR phosphate when I want to dive into the most accurate numbers I can when doing more in depth troubleshooting. That being said, once we get used to our tanks we get an idea on what our stable numbers should be. Some of the API kits are so fast and easy I don't care about accurate results as I am not looking for detailed data but rather a quickly daily test to establish trends.

Hobby grade kits IMO are good for determining trends. The second I truly believe I have 10vs25 nitrates in my Salifert color chart is when I may make stupid un-needed changes to correct what's not a problem. When every day my test kit is light pink (regardless if 5-10) I know that if it's dark pink something changed.

Same way with these non hanna po4 kits. Under 0.1 they are almost impossible to read as you don't really start to see blue color until 0.1. If my tank is typically 0.02-0.03 I may still use them as i'm just making sure it's clear on the result. The second I see a hint of blue I know something big has happened; my corals usually tell me when i'm on the low side of 0.02 really quick.
They do, I’ve had different cards from them and the colors are drastically different
 

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