Electrical Question / Help Please

[wam67]

I upgraded my light to a 250W maristar combo fixture (awesome light) I am having a problem the light kicks the breaker. I have no other outlets within nearby to plug the light into. Does anyonre have any ideas on a solution. I would really like to keep this light but an extension cord run across the room isnt going to cut it with my wife

 

[Paul_N]

You probably have too much on that breaker. I ran two dedicated lines to my tank. Nothing else is on it.

 

[wam67]

That is what I need to do. I am not sure I have an easy way to do it. I need soem advice of an electrician.

 

[Myteemouse]

We'll first off does the light work on other plugs??
if not you got a bigger problem..
If so then yes your overloading your breaker..
How many MH 's on on you fixture and do they have separate cords??
If so have you tried turning them one one after another so they all don't fire at the same time??
the initial jolt of power consumption may be overloading the breaker.
But you really should add at least one dedicated circuit for your tank on a 20 amp breaker....
This is not hard if you do a little research and drill a few holes..

 

[wam67]

yes it works on other outlets. (2) 250 MH with seprste plugs and remote ballast.

 

[ironman]

You should check to see what size breaker it is first. If it is a 15 or 20 amp breaker you should be fine as long as there are not alot of other things running on the same breaker. Something to keep in mind with dual halides is that when they start they draw alot more amps than when they are already running. Alot of people complain of the same problem you are having. When both ballast kick on at the same time it is a huge amp draw at one time and will pop a breaker. You need to put them on two different timers that will start them a few minutes apart. But be sure and check your breaker size first. I would say starting them seperatly will solve your problem though

 

[Paul_N]

Something to keep in mind with dual halides is that when they start they draw alot more amps than when they are already running.

That is not true for an electronic ballast. I have a dual 250w and when I put my killawatt meter on it on start up it only reads 180 and gradually increases to a max of between 522-527.

 

[cshoneyman]

Well you can have a couple of things going on. First you could have too much on the circuit and that is causing the breaker to trip, second you could have a breaker that is getting weak and is tripping at a lower value then it was intended or third it could be a combination of the two. I had to replace the breaker in the past that was causing a similiar problem. A clamp on amp meter can answer all of these questions for you. I have one that you can borrow to make the measurements if you do not have access to one. I can explain how to check the circuit and a path forward to resolve it. Just send me a PM and we can discuss further if you like.

Chris

 

[wam67]

I have been checking there are several outlets on this one circuit. I have the metal halides, return pump, 300w heater, one HK power head, plus there are acouple of house hold lamps and a 42" flant panel TV all on this one circuit in our basement. I was dual 150W MH fixture before but this new one trips the breaker. It is a Sunlight supply maristar with a blue wave 7 ballast. Both MH plug into the one ballast so there is no way to stagger the start.

 

[ironman]

Qoute - That is not true for an electronic ballast. I have a dual 250w and when I put my killawatt meter on it on start up it only reads 180 and gradually increases to a max of between 522-527.

I do believe a blue wave VII is a magnetic ballast. And there are a couple locals including me who use icecap electrinic ballast who have the same problem. And alot of threads out there with the same problem.

It sounds like from your post that you have way to much running on one curcuit and need to really run a 20 amp line just for your tank. I have two 20 amp curcuits running my system.

 

[Paul_N]

Qoute - That is not true for an electronic ballast. I have a dual 250w and when I put my killawatt meter on it on start up it only reads 180 and gradually increases to a max of between 522-527.

I do believe a blue wave VII is a magnetic ballast. And there are a couple locals including me who use icecap electrinic ballast who have the same problem. And alot of threads out there with the same problem.

It sounds like from your post that you have way to much running on one curcuit and need to really run a 20 amp line just for your tank. I have two 20 amp curcuits running my system.

Ah didn't realize it was a magnetic. What would cause one electronic ballast to surge on start and another to just "ramp up"?

 

[ironman]

Im no electrician! LOL! I know some ballast have microprocessors and some dont, maybe that plays a role? I will try and remember to put my meter on tonight and see what it does on start up. I didnt experiment, My buddy had the same problem and found that to be the case, so when I hooked mine up for the first time and it did it I just changed the time setting on my controller and problem was solved.

 

[wam67]

Electrical problem update: Okay had an electrician come check out my situation and here is the deal. Going to need to have a new dedicated circuit installed for the tank. Fortunatley we had some conduit run for a remodel of screen porch several years and the wire can be run through the exisiting conduit and punched through the outside wall of the basement. Got space on the breaker box panel for another breaker. Going to go with a 30 AMP GFCI breaker and heavier wire. Seem slike a good solution.

 

[ironman]

sounds like a good plan.

 

[vicky86]

I have been checking there are several outlets on this one circuit. I have the metal halides, return pump, 300w Aquarium heater, one HK power head, plus there are acouple of house hold lamps and a 42" flant panel TV all on this one circuit in our basement. I was dual 150W MH fixture before but this new one trips the breaker. It is a Sunlight supply maristar with a blue wave 7 ballast. Both MH plug into the one ballast so there is no way to stagger the start.

Very detailed information, thanks.