electricity question...

[macawmagic]

So my dad and I just ran a second 15 amp circuit to my room for the tanks. Not really too sure on the best way to hook everything up, but i'm thinking like this.

1st circuit...
chiller
halides
return pumps

2nd circuit...
powerheads
and everything else.

anybody have it setup that way? I figure if one trips then there will still be flow. and you wouldn't want to have the chiller circuit trips with the halides still on so I figure those would be best together.

 

[tedstan]

sounds like a lot of amps on the first circuit. Did you check how many amps you would be pulling?

 

[macawmagic]

nope...how would I check that?

I used to have everything except the 2x250 watt halides on the one 15 amp circuit, no problem...but I'm reorganizing and want to do it the best/correct way!

 

[tedstan]

on the equipment it should tell you how many amps it should pull. Add them up and you should be close to how many it could pull.

 

[Rouselb]

If its not listed just take the Wattage and divide by 110. This will give you the estimated running amperage.

Example:
(2) 250W halides =500W/110=4.5A
1/4 H Chiller=7A
Return Pump = 150W/110=1.3A
Total of roughly 13A continuous running.

 

[kateater]

A breaker should trip at 80% which should be 12 amps for a fifteen amp circuit. Dividing wattage by voltage will get you amperage but on new electronic ballast the amperage will be less.

 

[Rouselb]

Really, how is it less?? I use a CoralVue electronic dimmable ballast, and i checked mine with a Kill-a-watt meter and its pulls exactly 250W.

 

[kateater]

It works like an amplifier and jumps up the out put. It will still pull the 4.5a at start up the after the bulbs reach the correct color temp it will draw less.(compared to magnetic ballast) Now its not going to be a lot less but it could be the difference from that circuit tripping out.

 

[Rouselb]

Gotcha, yeah, my blue wave 250W ballast draws 330W. The coralvue electronic draws 250W after warm up, but much more at startup, usually 270-280W. Very Cool. I still like the PAR from the Blue wave much better...more power as Tim used to say!

 

[kateater]

ARF ARF ARF! (man barking)

 

[macawmagic]

so basically...i need to seperate the chiller and halides? if I do hook those 3 things up and it works...is it safe, or will it probably trip one day upon startup? Just trying to figure everything out...least amount of powerstrips and extension cords! LOL

and thank you guys for the help so far!

 

[kateater]

yup. What size wire did you and your father run? If you pulled 12 awg than just change the breaker to 20a and problem solved and leave it like it is.

 

[macawmagic]

16 g.

 

[kateater]

Hate to tell you 16 is not big enough for 15a circuit. That really needs to be changed before you burn the place down. Circuit breakers are not to protect the equipment its to protect the wire. Trust me on this one I have been an electrician for 12 years now.

 

[Rouselb]

I thought you could only run 12-2 for a 20A and 14-2 for a 15A???

 

[kateater]

you can, he said they ran 16.

 

[Rouselb]

okay, just checking. I saw his post, just thought it was an odd gauge to run, usually when you go to Home Depot or Lowes its one of the two i mentioned.

 

[kateater]

Not to familiar with romex as i am an industrial electrician but i dont think they got it from home depot or lowes. I just hope that he takes my advice on this one before something bad happens.