Electronic ball valve for CO² scrubber

[shakey]

As far as to plug into the electronic ball valve itself, would you need three 1/2 inch male fittings with barbed 3/8th's on the other end?

You could use barbed fittings. I thought I used push connect but looking at pic. I used barbs myself. Lol. Sorry

 

[DeputyDog95]

You could use barbed fittings. I thought I used push connect but looking at pic. I used barbs myself. Lol. Sorry

That's ok. I was looking at the pic and was like, hmmm....



Any idea where you got those male 1/2" to 3/8th's barbed fittings?

So I'm assembling this correctly...

There will be a hose coming from the skimmer lid going to one side of the 3-way valve.
There will be a second hose simply sucking in ambient air going to the other side of the 3-way valve. (And it sounds like I should have a ball valve on the end of that to match the fresh air intake flow to the scubbed air intake flow.)

The bottom of the 3 way valve will feed the skimmer venturi intake.

Then code the Apex 24v port to say "If pH < 8.3 Then On" and "If pH > 8.3 Then Off"? Or something like that?

I bought the Apex bare 24v cable.

What feeds position one? The scrubbed or fresh air?

And how do you wire it? I assume we can only put power to it to open one side and if the power is taken away it switches to the other side? This chart means nothing to me LoL

 

[shakey]

That's ok. I was looking at the pic and was like, hmmm....



Any idea where you got those male 1/2" to 3/8th's barbed fittings?

So I'm assembling this correctly...

There will be a hose coming from the skimmer lid going to one side of the 3-way valve.
There will be a second hose simply sucking in ambient air going to the other side of the 3-way valve. (And it sounds like I should have a ball valve on the end of that to match the fresh air intake flow to the scubbed air intake flow.)

The bottom of the 3 way valve will feed the skimmer venturi intake.

Then code the Apex 24v port to say "If pH < 8.3 Then On" and "If pH > 8.3 Then Off"? Or something like that?

I bought the Apex bare 24v cable.

What feeds position one? The scrubbed or fresh air?

And how do you wire it? I assume we can only put power to it to open one side and if the power is taken away it switches to the other side? This chart means nothing to me LoL

I have no clue where I ordered fittings from, but I either bought them at Lowes or ordered them from bulk reef supply. I think anyway. I don’t remember ordering them online but I could have. I researched how to wire it up but I don’t remember details. I do know you only use black and red wire off of solenoid valve to apex wires. If you run it like my pic I think you will be fine. Ventura to middle. Left side to CO2 scrubber right side fresh air. There was a reason I did it that way seems like when solenoid had no power to it you wanted it pulling through CO2 scrubber. When you put power to solenoid it should switch to fresh air. The reason I think we do it that way is the solenoid will last much longer. It will be pulling through scrubber a lot more than fresh air thus the power to force it stay on is not used unless PH is above 8.3.

 

[shakey]

Here is my programming.

 

[DeputyDog95]

I have no clue where I ordered fittings from, but I either bought them at Lowes or ordered them from bulk reef supply. I think anyway. I don’t remember ordering them online but I could have. I researched how to wire it up but I don’t remember details. I do know you only use black and red wire off of solenoid valve to apex wires. If you run it like my pic I think you will be fine. Ventura to middle. Left side to CO2 scrubber right side fresh air. There was a reason I did it that way seems like when solenoid had no power to it you wanted it pulling through CO2 scrubber. When you put power to solenoid it should switch to fresh air. The reason I think we do it that way is the solenoid will last much longer. It will be pulling through scrubber a lot more than fresh air thus the power to force it stay on is not used unless PH is above 8.3.

Let me start by saying thank you for your patience with all my dumb questions. I've read this whole thread probably 10x now and have a much better understanding of how this is going to get rigged up. My tank is only SPS and has been through some tough times in the past few years (loss of power for over a day during the last hurricane, bad seam and an entire tank switchover as a result (two months ago), K overdose due to a product that was used as an Alk supplement but the manufacturer didn't think someone would be using it exclusively to supplement Alk because the manufacturer is a Kalk guy (I was kind of a beta, won't do that again), etc.

I'm a stickler for stability with all the main parameters and am that guy who mixes water change water lower to account for the salinity increase from using a sodium based Alk product so I can maintain a near constant 35ppt. Temp swing is less than half a degree a day. Alk, Ca, Mg, all within super tight variances. Alk is probably less than a quarter point a day. pH is the one thing that has been in range so to speak, but constantly on the lower side with significant swings. Particularly on the weekends when no one is at the office but me, where it will go two tenths higher than normal. The thought of locking it in around 8.3 all the time makes my OCD happy LoL

I understand what you're saying about wiring the valve up with it drawing scrubbed air when off to save the motor wear, but wouldn't you want to default to fresh air in the event of a failure? I'm just thinking out loud and I'm not sure how high the scrubber could drive the pH up, but the event of a failure either with the valve itself or with the Apex, would it be possible to skyrocket the pH to dangerous levels if the scrubber is the default off mode?

As far as the wiring, how did you connect the bare wires together? Butt connectors, wire nuts? Did you tape off the unused wires on the valve?

Any recollection on where you got the hoses and what specific sizes or material? BRS has silicone hose, but it's $$$.

Any reason you chose that fancy plumbing ball valve to regulate the fresh air intake speed versus a simple plastic one? Which is a great idea btw as I would never have thought about the skimmer performance varying because of the scrubber slowing the air down until it actually happened.

 

[shakey]

Here is my programming.

I named the outlet
CO2 to fresh air
because it will show on and that is what I could understand when it turns on. Lol

Let me start by saying thank you for your patience with all my dumb questions. I've read this whole thread probably 10x now and have a much better understanding of how this is going to get rigged up. My tank is only SPS and has been through some tough times in the past few years (loss of power for over a day during the last hurricane, bad seam and an entire tank switchover as a result (two months ago), K overdose due to a product that was used as an Alk supplement but the manufacturer didn't think someone would be using it exclusively to supplement Alk because the manufacturer is a Kalk guy (I was kind of a beta, won't do that again), etc.

I'm a stickler for stability with all the main parameters and am that guy who mixes water change water lower to account for the salinity increase from using a sodium based Alk product so I can maintain a near constant 35ppt. Temp swing is less than half a degree a day. Alk, Ca, Mg, all within super tight variances. Alk is probably less than a quarter point a day. pH is the one thing that has been in range so to speak, but constantly on the lower side with significant swings. Particularly on the weekends when no one is at the office but me, where it will go two tenths higher than normal. The thought of locking it in around 8.3 all the time makes my OCD happy LoL

I understand what you're saying about wiring the valve up with it drawing scrubbed air when off to save the motor wear, but wouldn't you want to default to fresh air in the event of a failure? I'm just thinking out loud and I'm not sure how high the scrubber could drive the pH up, but the event of a failure either with the valve itself or with the Apex, would it be possible to skyrocket the pH to dangerous levels if the scrubber is the default off mode?

As far as the wiring, how did you connect the bare wires together? Butt connectors, wire nuts? Did you tape off the unused wires on the valve?

Any recollection on where you got the hoses and what specific sizes or material? BRS has silicone hose, but it's $$$.

Any reason you chose that fancy plumbing ball valve to regulate the fresh air intake speed versus a simple plastic one? Which is a great idea btw as I would never have thought about the skimmer performance varying because of the scrubber slowing the air down until it actually happened.

first of all you are more than welcome. I’m just glad I can help someone. I’ve had a lot of help myself so paying it forward a little feels good. Lol.

It could push up the PH too highi so I put in my apex programming for the skimmer to cut off if PH reaches 8.4. This should protect you if the solenoid valve would ever fail.

You could plumb it the way you stated just as easy though. It wouldn’t hurt anything.

I simply used wire nuts to put wires together. The extra wires you should use electrical tape too separate and ensure they don’t get together.
Seems like I bought the 3/8 hose from Lowes but not positive it’s been a while ago.

A plastic ball valve to regulate air intake would probably be better that’s just what I found when assembling.

 

[shakey]

I named the outlet
CO2 to fresh air
because it will show on and that is what I could understand when it turns on. Lol

first of all you are more than welcome. I’m just glad I can help someone. I’ve had a lot of help myself so paying it forward a little feels good. Lol.

It could push up the PH too highi so I put in my apex programming for the skimmer to cut off if PH reaches 8.4. This should protect you if the solenoid valve would ever fail.

You could plumb it the way you stated just as easy though. It wouldn’t hurt anything.

I simply used wire nuts to put wires together. The extra wires you should use electrical tape too separate and ensure they don’t get together.
Seems like I bought the 3/8 hose from Lowes but not positive it’s been a while ago.

A plastic ball valve to regulate air intake would probably be better that’s just what I found when assembling.

By the way if this doesn’t get your PH to 8.3 check out sodium hydroxide. I’m in the process of starting to experiment with adding it to my Alk dose. I think I will essentially keep it at 8.3 solidly.

 

[DeputyDog95]

I named the outlet
CO2 to fresh air
because it will show on and that is what I could understand when it turns on. Lol

first of all you are more than welcome. I’m just glad I can help someone. I’ve had a lot of help myself so paying it forward a little feels good. Lol.

It could push up the PH too highi so I put in my apex programming for the skimmer to cut off if PH reaches 8.4. This should protect you if the solenoid valve would ever fail.

You could plumb it the way you stated just as easy though. It wouldn’t hurt anything.

I simply used wire nuts to put wires together. The extra wires you should use electrical tape too separate and ensure they don’t get together.
Seems like I bought the 3/8 hose from Lowes but not positive it’s been a while ago.

A plastic ball valve to regulate air intake would probably be better that’s just what I found when assembling.

Excellent idea on simply shutting the skimmer down if the pH exceeds your desired upper level. Best of both worlds. More longevity on the solenoid with a failsafe by killing the skimmer.

I think I'm going to copy your exact setup.

Assembling the main parts has been relatively easy. It's all these little fittings etc that are way more complicated. I guess I'll have to sketch it out to see what I need where and take measurements for the hoses.


The BRS jumbo canisters use 3/8 tubing and barbed fittings.

The ball valve is 1/2 inch so I'll convert down to 3/8ths to match the canisters.

The Reef Octo recirc skimmer lid has a 16mm/0.63" ID barbed hose fitting.

I have no idea what the size of the barbed fitting for the venturi or the silencer hose is on the skimmer pump, but I have an email into CoralVue to find out.

Getting the sizes figured out for the skimmer lid and venurti intake are my last question marks.

I'm sure I'm going to end up having to spread all this out on a table and play around with the plumbing and connections to make sure it all fits correctly.

 

[DeputyDog95]

By the way if this doesn’t get your PH to 8.3 check out sodium hydroxide. I’m in the process of starting to experiment with adding it to my Alk dose. I think I will essentially keep it at 8.3 solidly.

No concerns about that jacking up your salinity? As it stands now, dosing around 70ml per day of the Red Sea liquid Alk, my salinity goes up between .3 and .5 ppt a week. So I basically have to make my water change water around 31ppt to negate the increase. Always varies a little, but you get the idea.

 

[shakey]

It sounds like you have it figured out. I think you are going to like it!!

 

[DeputyDog95]

It sounds like you have it figured out. I think you are going to like it!!

I'm sure I will!

For anyone considering the same motorized ball valve, I just picked up a pack of these:


Seems like it should fit just fine and the solenoid is brass, so seemed like a logical choice to use the same material. I was having a hard time finding individuals on amazon, it was either two packs or more. Price was right, so I just grabbed the 5 pack with hose clamps.

If anyone needs the two leftovers, would be happy to ship.

Now I'm just waiting to get the specs on the skimmer hose and venturi, and I should be able to complete the rest of the connections and hosing.

 

[DeputyDog95]

Here is my programming.

Ok, so we are really close to being done.

I have the solenoid wired to the bare apex wire, and that's plugged into an empty 24v port on the energy bar.

How do I find the solenoid to create a slider and programming?

 

[DeputyDog95]

Never mind, figured it out. Was having a "duh" moment.

All up and running!


Copied your programming, but called it "SkimFreshAir" because it was confusing me with with what it was doing when it was on or off. Now if I see it "On", I know it's skimming using ambient air.

The Reef Octopus Recirc Skimmer lid is really nice. Plug and play.

Here's the solenoid mounted up.

Here's the BRS dual jumbo scrubber filled with IceCap media. I didn't put any water in the scrubber since I'm assuming the air will be really moist being recirculated from the skimmer lid. And since the scubber is mounted much higher than the skimmer, I think it's almost impossible for me to get any skimmate into the scrubber. Plus, the skimmer has a float switch which will shut it down before it gets too high.

Here's my current pH chart. Will be interesting to see how this goes over the next week or so.

 

[shakey]

Never mind, figured it out. Was having a "duh" moment.

All up and running!


Copied your programming, but called it "SkimFreshAir" because it was confusing me with with what it was doing when it was on or off. Now if I see it "On", I know it's skimming using ambient air.

The Reef Octopus Recirc Skimmer lid is really nice. Plug and play.

Here's the solenoid mounted up.

Here's the BRS dual jumbo scrubber filled with IceCap media. I didn't put any water in the scrubber since I'm assuming the air will be really moist being recirculated from the skimmer lid. And since the scubber is mounted much higher than the skimmer, I think it's almost impossible for me to get any skimmate into the scrubber. Plus, the skimmer has a float switch which will shut it down before it gets too high.

Here's my current pH chart. Will be interesting to see how this goes over the next week or so.

Looks awesome!! Very neat install.

 

[DeputyDog95]

So, how long does it take for the pH to come up and stay up?

Seems like it was on a steady increase, and then fell off after the lights went off despite the scrubber staying on.

 

[shakey]

So, how long does it take for the pH to come up and stay up?

Seems like it was on a steady increase, and then fell off after the lights went off despite the scrubber staying on.

It seems like it was a steady rise day to day for about a week or two before it stabilized.

 

[shakey]

It seems like it was a steady rise day to day for about a week or two before it stabilized.

It will drop back down at night but should get a little higher each day. Seems like I read it will raise most tanks .2-.3

 

[shakey]

It will drop back down at night but should get a little higher each day. Seems like I read it will raise most tanks .2-.3

Did you close off all holes in skimmer lid so that it has to pull all air through reactor? If you didn’t that will help also.

 

[DeputyDog95]

Did you close off all holes in skimmer lid so that it has to pull all air through reactor? If you didn’t that will help also.

I actually purchased the Reef Octopus recirc skimmer lid that doesn't have any holes, but adds a port to pull the air from. Seemed like a clean way to do it, and I didn't have to modify my stock lid in the event I decided this wasn't for me.

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So far, I haven't seen much of a bump in pH. A little disappointing actually. I wasn't expecting it to jump up to 8.3 immediately, and frankly in an SPS tank, that could be problematic with any rapid change. But I haven't really seen any difference at all so far in almost 24 hours. I'll let it run for a week and see what it looks like, and then do a week to week comparison. I'm probably trying to evaluate the performance of this project way way too soon, especially considering I'm only running a 5x turnover rate on my return pump and the skimmer probably only pulls in a small percentage of the water passing by. Maybe it'll just take a while for the skimmer/scrubber to start off gassing the existing CO2 and then start getting ahead of the CO2 being added.

I'm still running my chaeto refugium on a reverse light cycle which should really be helping at night.

 

[DeputyDog95]

So, I'm definitely starting to see a pH bump which is encouraging. My lows are getting higher, and so are the peaks. Ignore the 8.4. I do water changes in the sump (I did a water change today) and the freshly mixed red sea blue bucket salt must have a fairly high pH.

I did finally hit my target of 8.3 today. Which is probably a little easier on the weekends when no one is here at the office. I'm curious to see if the trend continues and I can keep this pH up during the week as well when all the "breathers" are here

Another interesting side effect of this is that I was dosing 65ml/day to maintain 8.5 dkh. Now, two days later, I'm dosing 80ml/day and I haven't been able to get back to 8.5 dkh since setting this up due to the rapidly increased consumption. Calcium demand has gone up too. Apparently the corals are liking the elevated pH.

However, I'm running into something unusual I wasn't prepared for, and I don't know if it's a big deal or not.

Since I'm running this as a recirc, the air is obviously quite moist. Which is not a bad thing as from what I've been told, as the media likes humidity. I'm starting to get some water build up in the line. My scrubber reactors are probably 3 feet above the skimmer, so the intake air flows up and the output flows back down into the skimmer.

I can't tell if this is as bad as it will get and most of it will eventually get pulled through via evaporation, or if it will start to accumulate and actually begin to restrict air flow.

Has anyone experienced this before and if so, what did you do about it?