Emergency! New Tank cycle

Are you sure too that your not dosing ammonium chloride with all the other stuff? If your new and someone gave you this I wouldn't be surprised if that mistake happened..
That's a good point to check because 2 fish aren't going to produce that level that quick.
 
Are you sure too that your not dosing ammonium chloride with all the other stuff? If your new and someone gave you this I wouldn't be surprised if that mistake happened..
I think you are correct! I didn't fully read the instructions and AlgaeBarn's NitroCycle includes ammonium chloride which I dosed shortly before all of this debacle. What would be the best course of action?
 
TSA live bio-media seeded in their system plus Dr Tim's and Fritz (I assume One and Only and Turbostart) I don't see how this tank isn't fine for some fish. I'd test the source water and if it checks out, re-test your tank and if you confirm ammonia, move the fish to the fresh saltwater.

Pic of tank? Did you QT clowns? Might be a good time to move them to a QT regardless, especially is they aren't eating.
 
I think you are correct! I didn't fully read the instructions and AlgaeBarn's NitroCycle includes ammonium chloride which I dosed shortly before all of this debacle. What would be the best course of action?
Move the fish into fresh saltwater and wait for it to go down or if you added some ungodly amount, I'd do a 100% water change.
 
I think you are correct! I didn't fully read the instructions and AlgaeBarn's NitroCycle includes ammonium chloride which I dosed shortly before all of this debacle. What would be the best course of action?
Toxicity was added to tank and you need to detoxify. Big water change- addition of carbon, and do 10% water changes daily until ammonia is undetectable for 4-5 days with testing.
 
API tests, for the most part, are rubbish. Are you actually buying jugs of ocean water at the LFS or is your LFS mixing their RO/DI with salt? Either way you’re probably getting water that’s high in nutrients. It would be best to get a RO/DI system and make your own. It costs a lot upfront but it pays for itself. If you can’t afford it right now you can get distilled water or you could even buy jugs of RO water from Walmart, Kroger, or any local supermarket. Of course you need to buy some salt too but your fish will thank you with long lives and vibrant colors.

That said I’d get some prime and follow the directions. You’ll need to get that water aerated. The ammonia is probably not off the charts. I could believe 0.25 to 0.5 ppm however. It’s burning the gills of your fish. That and the swings that occur when water chemistry is unstable are contributing to what’s happening now.

I would see if you could get REAL live rock or live sand from a reefing friend. Live sand from the LFS is, well, anything but live. Don’t dose anything besides the prime. Follow the instructions for the Dr. Tim’s one and only.
 
Here's the cycle of false stall calls from umpires

Dr Reef posts a huge study thread we've all seen. It shows fritz as the fastest cycling bacteria, 48 hours

We then call a tank approaching two weeks carrying fish just fine + feed daily not cycled, no seneye cycle has ever reported a two week ammonia lag, no cycling chart shows it to be true

But if a poster wants to state an ammonia level we believe it always, over all the other indicators plus its already been carrying fish without loss, what's the exact problem? We believe the non digital test kit for for millionth time without question? Why is it no animal loss must factor in the broken cycle call... We can't control people's test procedure and nh4 vs nh3 reporting across samples but those stated levels of nh4 are always accepted as stalled

The non digital test kit shown to misread in countless threads is accepted as the proof
 
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Your tank is cycled post a pic. Fritz + nitrocycle is the fastest cycling in the game, I'm about to add this to my false cycle stall thread. Need pics showing bioload carry just fine. This is a non digital test kit misread false stall.


see how finicky cycle umps are...why isn't that being deemed a cycle fail

non digital test kits = everyone is guessing, nobody is discussing disease preps/lack of + consequences.

how about this one, should we blame it on the cycle>
 
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I know you mean well, but the QT tank is uncycled. Might be best to leave in the current tank at this point.
@vetteguy53081 whqt do you think?
I only have 25gal of fresh saltwater on hand and also have Kordon Amquel Plus on hand.

I'm worried if I leave the fish in with a 50% water change the temperature difference will harm them too much
 
Your tank is cycled post a pic. Fritz + nitrocycle is the fastest cycling in the game, I'm about to add this to my false cycle stall thread. Need pics showing bioload carry just fine. This is a non digital test kit misread false stall.
He posted his fish are down and breathing hard… soooo probably not a false stall
 
I only have 25gal of fresh saltwater on hand and also have Kordon Amquel Plus on hand.

I'm worried if I leave the fish in with a 50% water change the temperature difference will harm them too much
They have been in the tank almost 2 weeks. In my opinion the stress of netting them and putting them into another uncycled tank will kill them. Better where they are now.

Wait for others to chime in their opinions though. Whatever is best for the fish. I’m no expert but that’s what I would do. #fishmedic ? What is best for the fish?
 
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NitroCycle also sent my tank into the extremely high ammonia zone. I luckily only did the one dose, but it certainly did freak me out. I feel for you! Hopefully the water changes will help.
 
I only have 25gal of fresh saltwater on hand and also have Kordon Amquel Plus on hand.

I'm worried if I leave the fish in with a 50% water change the temperature difference will harm them too much
Mix that saltwater and match it to the tank temp before entering it into the tank. The tank I agree is cycled despite the addition of ammonia and its impact. Just assure the ammonia level id dropping and not climbing. Amquel is great with chloramines and even nitrate but dont depend on it to keep your levels in check - It does not remove ammonia but binds it temporarily.
Netting creates little stress unless you chase them like no tomorrow
 
Mix that saltwater and match it to the tank temp before entering it into the tank. The tank I agree is cycled despite the addition of ammonia and its impact. Just assure the ammonia level id dropping and not climbing. Amquel is great with chloramines and even nitrate but dont depend on it to keep your levels in check - It does not remove ammonia but binds it temporarily.
Netting creates little stress unless you chase them like no tomorrow
Instead of matching to tank temp before adding, could I put 10-20% wait for that to reach 78F and then add again?
 
Instead of matching to tank temp before adding, could I put 10-20% wait for that to reach 78F and then add again?
Not recommended. It will affect the very bacteria you are trying to establish and not to mention that most fish cant regulate their internal body temp and in turn it can cause osmotic shock or cause the fish to be lethargic which can affect their immune system subjecting them to getting a chance of disease
 
The API test kit Amonia max is 8.0ppm, Nirite max is 5.0ppm, and Nitrate is 160ppm. I'm also using the HR Nitrate Hana checker which maxes out at 75ppm.
I’ve never seen ammonia levels higher than about 3 ppm except when I was dosing ammonium chloride to start a system - some hobbyists add that as well, just checking that none of the products you are adding has ammonium chloride in it…..
Jay
 

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