Emergency newbie needs help please

Agreed. Simply because the composition of our “sea water” is drastically different than freshwater. We operate with different alkalinity and ph, temp, and salinity. It’s possible that the reagents in freshwater tests behave similarly with saltwater, but I wouldn’t trust it unless there was some pretty solid evidence that they’re equivalent. Also, if freshwater tests worked with saltwater, why are there so many marine specific tests?

(just my 2 cents)
Very true
 
Relax. There are gonna be some ugly stages. It's normal. Don't let this stress you out. Embrace the ugly parts. There WILL be failures and losses. Enjoy the ride, it's totally worth it!
 
Ok thankyou so much will look at getting the right one asap. What are the Hanna checkers?

Hanna checkers are the digital “checkers” (basically digital test kits) made by Hana instruments. A lot of them are pretty solid and they can really help since there’s a lot of human error involved with eyeballing test colors (especially if you’re colorblind).

mind you, the Hanna checkers are a bit more pricy, and you definitely don’t NEED them to have success. But they’re a nice option if you want them
 
Thankyou everyone for your help the tank is looking alot better now!!! slowly treating the algae, raising the temp and salinity... i only have one problem now my blue tang has got ich again, I have the tablets to treat it but just wondering once the ich is removed from the fish itself should i treat once more to try fully removing from the tank??

15968427591174900841216848585267.jpg
 
Thankyou everyone for your help the tank is looking alot better now!!! slowly treating the algae, raising the temp and salinity... i only have one problem now my blue tang has got ich again, I have the tablets to treat it but just wondering once the ich is removed from the fish itself should i treat once more to try fully removing from the tank??

15968427591174900841216848585267.jpg

I’d be leery of treating the tank. You don’t really know if your rocks or the tanks silicon will absorb and then leach out the meds later
 
I treated it the same way a few weeks ago and was fine, how else would I treat the ich??

ideally in a qt or hospital tank. Most meds that we use in this hobby are lethal to inverts and adverse at best for corals. Thus, if your rocks absorb any of the meds, or if the silicone does, it’s quite likely that the meds will released back into the tank.

This is one of the main reasons people don’t keep rock in QT tanks.

Edit: just realized I didn’t specify treating the DT. Sorry for the confusion!
 
look up the life cycle for ich. to eliminate from tank you would remove all of your fish to a quarantine tank. treat the fish there. leave them in the quarantine tank long enough so that the ich in the display tank goes through its life cycle. when it reaches the stage where it has to find a fish host and cannot it will die. then you can return the fish to the display tank. otherwise you are not getting rid of ich, it is falling off of the fish and will return to them.
 
Welcome to R2R! You’ll find a lot of reef experienced people ready to help. Everyone posting wants to help. You’ll find they all have very sound advice and information. You may want to work with a couple of them to get your tank in check. Just message them and they will be ready to help! Good luck and looking forward to your steps of success!
 
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welcome to the fam!!
It sounds like you might be in the cycle phase still.
Unplug your light for the time being, the ambient room light will be enough. The light will cause the algae to bloom making things harder for you to get back in control.

advised:
10% weekly water changes
Test for ammonia, nitrates, phosphate and salinity daily until you show zero ammonia.
Reduce your feeding habits to once a day and only what the tang will eat in 1-2 mins
Top off the tank with fresh unmixed rodi water not salt water to replace the evaporation
Fish only will be fine between 1.020-1.026 salinity and temp around 78-80
Then WAIT 2-3 months until the tank is stable before doing anything else
 
Ick lives for 76 days without a fish to host. The only proven way to treat ick is dosing copper to the fish in a quarantine tank and waiting 76days for the parasite to die in a fish less system.

you could do the tank transfer method to but still your display tank needs to be fish less for 76 days
 

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