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Ya i had to cut it as well but it still needs to lean forward to get into the bulkhead....at least mine does
Emeritus Revenio v.5.0.150INT
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OP
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@shoelaceike, should be fine. You might already know this but, Cast Acrylic is the higher quality stronger acrylic; more expensive than extruded and it offers the best optical clarity, greater thermal stability, and higher resistance when exposed to solvents.
The only thing I don't like (very minor) is the 90 spigot barb, I would have preferred something with a radius closer to two 45's but also I know and understand that space is a mitigating factor and why they opted for a 90.
The only thing I don't like (very minor) is the 90 spigot barb, I would have preferred something with a radius closer to two 45's but also I know and understand that space is a mitigating factor and why they opted for a 90.
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So you ordered a 100 and they sent you a 150?
OP
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Tacticool-Reefer
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OP
OP
Tacticool-Reefer
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Big thanks to Trigger System customer support, The control board on my recently purchased sump was having issues. Emailed customer support and within 15 minutes I got a response back asking me for my address for the replacement part.
48hrs laters and I have the part install and everything is working as it should be. They have exemplary customer support - not only did they replace the defective part but they sent me a fleece replacement roller along with a replacement sprocket just in case.
48hrs laters and I have the part install and everything is working as it should be. They have exemplary customer support - not only did they replace the defective part but they sent me a fleece replacement roller along with a replacement sprocket just in case.
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My Tank Thread
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HA! Love it!
OP
OP
Tacticool-Reefer
I have spoken!
Thanks Dave!
OP
OP
Tacticool-Reefer
I have spoken!
So I stole this list from @Humblefish, things are starting to trickle in...
....quarantine quarantine quarantine!!!
These are the bare essentials I recommend for quarantining:
....quarantine quarantine quarantine!!!
These are the bare essentials I recommend for quarantining:
- Anti-parasitic: Copper Power with a Hanna High Range Copper Colorimeter (HI702) for testing. Treats Ich & velvet.
- Anti-parasitic: Metronidazole (e.g. Seachem Metroplex); treats brook & uronema.
- Dewormer: Prazipro or API General Cure.
- Antibiotics: AAP Spectrogram orNitrofuracin Green Powder
- Emergency bath treatments: Ruby Reef Rally and Formalin
- Internal Issues: Seachem Focus can be used with General Cure if internal parasites/intestinal worms are encountered (more info).
OP
OP
Tacticool-Reefer
I have spoken!
...For the record, a fishless cycle on a bare bottom tank absolutely sucks(!), the amount of time one has to wait for the cycle to complete can last months!
Can you tell I have no patience, but it should be worth it in the end!
Can you tell I have no patience, but it should be worth it in the end!
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OP
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I have spoken!
So I'm slowly increasing to the recommended 2.50ppm, Fish are eating like gluttons and that’s exactly what I want - water is a little cloudy but that’s from all the fish food along with the medication...
OP
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Perseverance pays and in my case frustration lost out!
Calibrating the salinity probe on the Apex is a bit of a nightmare! Honestly, I’ve lost track of how many videos and posts and threads I read over the last few weeks trying to identify the root cause of why I’m having such a hard time calibrating the darn thing!
Some were more useful than others, some whimsical at best, but it took a combination of about a handful of them to come up with what finally worked for me.
These are the steps I took, perhaps they’ll help somebody else or maybe they won’t but, I’ll post them here just in case. I read quite a few threads about how having the probe cable next to power can introduce unwanted noise, stop by the electrical department, and got a couple of Clip-on Ferrite ring core RFI/EMI noise suppressors for both ends of the probe cable.
Word of warning on the clip-on Ferrite rings, they rust, so do your best to keep them sealed and away from saltwater. I wrapped the one closest to the probe in electrical tape and then covered it over with high shrink heat shrinks.
1. Calibrate your temperature probe, I cannot stress this enough if you fail to do this part don’t even bother with the rest. I used a newly acquired Hannah salinity tester with a built-in temperature to calibrate mine.
2. Drop your tank temperature to 77°F (wait for it to become stable with minimum fluctuations).
3. Run the calibration of the salinity probe directly from the Apex display and not from fusion! Fusion has way too much lag and waiting for the probe reading to become stable works best from the display.
4. Float the reference solution in your tank for a minimum of 30 minutes.
5. Make sure the temp probe and the solution are in the same vicinity to each other. The closer the better.
6. Remove the probe from your sump and clean it off with RO/DI water, it’s best to let the probe sit outside drying off for a minimum of an hour once it’s been cleaned. I have no patience for that so I use the blow dryer on cold air for about 3-5min.
7. At the apex display navigate to the probe calibration setting for your salinity probe and start your salinity probe calibration process.
8. When you get to the part about inserting the salinity probe into the reference solution, set yourself a 15-minute timer, placed the probe in a solution, and swirl it around gently for the entire 15 minutes. Note: if you happen to be watching your display, The reading will settle a couple of times but keep creeping up, mine finally ended up settling well above 0700 and I still had about three minutes left on the timer.
9. Once it settles and you hit next on the apex Display module, congratulations you’ve calibrated your probe. Go ahead and take it out of the solution and swirl it around in RODI water for a few minutes before placing it back into the sump.
31.6 ppt roughly equates to 1.023sg, which is what the Hana checker shows, after it was calibrated.
Calibrating the salinity probe on the Apex is a bit of a nightmare! Honestly, I’ve lost track of how many videos and posts and threads I read over the last few weeks trying to identify the root cause of why I’m having such a hard time calibrating the darn thing!
Some were more useful than others, some whimsical at best, but it took a combination of about a handful of them to come up with what finally worked for me.
These are the steps I took, perhaps they’ll help somebody else or maybe they won’t but, I’ll post them here just in case. I read quite a few threads about how having the probe cable next to power can introduce unwanted noise, stop by the electrical department, and got a couple of Clip-on Ferrite ring core RFI/EMI noise suppressors for both ends of the probe cable.
Word of warning on the clip-on Ferrite rings, they rust, so do your best to keep them sealed and away from saltwater. I wrapped the one closest to the probe in electrical tape and then covered it over with high shrink heat shrinks.
1. Calibrate your temperature probe, I cannot stress this enough if you fail to do this part don’t even bother with the rest. I used a newly acquired Hannah salinity tester with a built-in temperature to calibrate mine.
2. Drop your tank temperature to 77°F (wait for it to become stable with minimum fluctuations).
3. Run the calibration of the salinity probe directly from the Apex display and not from fusion! Fusion has way too much lag and waiting for the probe reading to become stable works best from the display.
4. Float the reference solution in your tank for a minimum of 30 minutes.
5. Make sure the temp probe and the solution are in the same vicinity to each other. The closer the better.
6. Remove the probe from your sump and clean it off with RO/DI water, it’s best to let the probe sit outside drying off for a minimum of an hour once it’s been cleaned. I have no patience for that so I use the blow dryer on cold air for about 3-5min.
7. At the apex display navigate to the probe calibration setting for your salinity probe and start your salinity probe calibration process.
8. When you get to the part about inserting the salinity probe into the reference solution, set yourself a 15-minute timer, placed the probe in a solution, and swirl it around gently for the entire 15 minutes. Note: if you happen to be watching your display, The reading will settle a couple of times but keep creeping up, mine finally ended up settling well above 0700 and I still had about three minutes left on the timer.
9. Once it settles and you hit next on the apex Display module, congratulations you’ve calibrated your probe. Go ahead and take it out of the solution and swirl it around in RODI water for a few minutes before placing it back into the sump.
31.6 ppt roughly equates to 1.023sg, which is what the Hana checker shows, after it was calibrated.
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