ESV B-Ionic 2 part has metals including copper!

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Hitman

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Just got reading the ingredients on my newer bottles and it says it has copper in the CA mix. I thought copper was a no no. Could this be what is killing my Leather corals? My 2 6-8 " toad stools have died in the last 24 hours each with a hole in them the size of a half dollar and my Devils Hand and RRBTA is all sunk in and ***** now too! Tell me it's not so as I just ordered the gallon size jugs from BRS a few hours ago as they sell the gallon jugs cheaper then I paid for the 1L bottles locally.

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Thank god when I saw them looking bad I set them in my QT tank before they died. I just hope my Devils Hand makes it as it was the first Coral I ever bought.
 
I don't think you have to worry. If the levels were sufficient to be problematic it would have been pulled from the market long ago.
If you analyse your foods you add to the tank you will probably find copper there too.
The trace amounts are insignificant for our purposes though.
 
Don't quote me but I think zeovit uses copper as one its supplements to get certain colors to come out
 
Yes, it has copper in it. Many two parts do. Balling has copper too. But both methods can actually lower copper, if it is elevated. Using them is like doing a water change.

Here's a discussion from one of my articles:

The Many Methods for Supplementing Calcium and Alkalinity - REEFEDITION

One issue that has confused some reef keepers, however, is the presence of trace elements. Assuming that these products are actually formulated with every ion such that a true natural seawater residue remained (let’s call this the “ideal” product), then it will necessarily contain such ions as copper. Since copper is elevated in some reef tanks, and is toxic to many invertebrates, reef keepers have wrongly criticized this method as adding more copper. That’s actually not what would happen. Since these products leave a natural seawater residue, and since copper may be elevated in concentration in many reef tanks relative to seawater, then using these “ideal” products will actually LOWER copper levels because when the increase in salinity is corrected, the copper will drop.

For example:

You have copper in your aquarium at 4 ppb and salinity of S=35.

You add a two part additive that over the course of a month raises salinity to S=36, and raises copper to 4.02 ppb.

Then you correct the salinity back to S=35 by diluting everything in the tank with fresh water, and you get a final copper concentration of 3.9 ppb.

Does this happen in real products and not “ideal” products? I have no idea. But the statement by manufacturers that it contains all ions in natural ratios, including copper, should not be viewed as a concern that it is exacerbating a heavy metal problem.

The rise in salinity of these products over time can be very roughly calculated, though there are several reasons why this calculation is only an estimate. For every 1000 meq of alkalinity added in this fashion (and the matching amount of calcium) these products will deliver on the order of 60 grams of other ions to the tank. In a tank with a low calcification demand (defined later to be 18.3 thousand meq of alkalinity per year in a 100 gallon tank (0.4 dKH/day)) this effect will raise the salinity by 3 ppt per year (compared to a normal salinity of S ~35). In a high demand tank (defined later to be 219 thousand meq of alkalinity per year in a 100 gallon tank (4.4 dKH/day)), the salinity will rise by 35 ppt in a year, or approximately doubling the salinity. Consequently, the salinity should be monitored closely in using these types of additives, especially in a tank with high calcification rates.
 
Well back to banging my head on the wall as I have no clue what is happening in my tank with my softies. Everything was great till I started dosing. At this point my Hammers and carpet took off growing and looking great which they still do. My hammer plugs have all gone from 1-3 heads to 5-6 in the last 1-2 months. My carpet has shown more color and activity. ( just wish my clowns would host him ) but my rrbta and leathers well the 1 of each that hasn't died I guess I just need to rehome them in another tank before they pass away too.
Thanks everyone for your help.
 
Well back to banging my head on the wall as I have no clue what is happening in my tank with my softies. Everything was great till I started dosing. At this point my Hammers and carpet took off growing and looking great which they still do. My hammer plugs have all gone from 1-3 heads to 5-6 in the last 1-2 months. My carpet has shown more color and activity. ( just wish my clowns would host him ) but my rrbta and leathers well the 1 of each that hasn't died I guess I just need to rehome them in another tank before they pass away too.
Thanks everyone for your help.

Perhaps increased growth of hard corals and coralline algae is hurting your soft corals, either by taking up needed trace elements or nutrients (leathers often seem to prefer more elevated nutrients), or by releasing something to the water they do not like (an organic toxin, for example).
 
Double post.
 
Perhaps increased growth of hard corals and coralline algae is hurting your soft corals, either by taking up needed trace elements or nutrients (leathers often seem to prefer more elevated nutrients), or by releasing something to the water they do not like (an organic toxin, for example).
I was just thinking the same thing as my levels are spot on for SPS that I hope to slowly start adding soon.
 
Do you run carbon? If not, softies tend to have "chemical warfare" with each other - even when they are not touching.
 
I run BRS 0.8 carbon on one of their reactors I run 2/3 Carbon and 1/3 GFO with a Sicce 1.5 pump. It picks up the dirty water in my sump where the overflow comes in goes through the reactor and then goes back in the sump right next to my return pump.
 
I run BRS 0.8 carbon on one of their reactors I run 2/3 Carbon and 1/3 GFO with a Sicce 1.5 pump. It picks up the dirty water in my sump where the overflow comes in goes through the reactor and then goes back in the sump right next to my return pump.

Running carbon and gfo in the same reactor isn't usually a great idea, but I don't think it has anything to do with your problem.
 
Per BRS if you do it just as they show in their video it's the best way for smaller tank. With that said a second reactor could I run them separate is on my to get list as I do feel like the carbon life span is about half the GFO. I replace the media every other Saturday when I do the rest of my byweekly maintenance. I hear the GFO could really last a month or longer whipis why my next order will include a second one.
 
If you don't think you're using up the lifespan of the gfo, just use less of it.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought regardless it was best to change out carbon every 2 weeks and GFO when po4 started to rise. If this is correct I would change out the carbon 4-5 times with biweekly changes to every 1 time with GFO.
 
If you want to change every two weeks that is fine. I find much longer than that it starts to get all clogged up with bacterial mulm anyway.

If you think you can run your gfo two months, then just run 1/4 of the amount and change it every two weeks with your carbon. Two reactors is obviously fine too but in a small tank it seems kind of ridiculous to have a huge reactor and a pump to tumble 1/4 cup of gfo.
 
I see what your saying now. So would I still use 2 cups of carbon and just cut my GFO from 1 cup to say 1/4 cup? Or cut both carbon and GFO?
 
Just the gfo.

Two reactors - 100% carbon, change every two weeks. 100% gfo, change every two months.

One reactor - 100% carbon, 25% gfo, change both every two weeks.

The only real difference here is the second method will pull phosphate from the water at a slower rate than the first method. If that is a concern you are better off getting your phosphate down where you want it first. .02-.05 is a good mark and once you're there it doesn't really matter anymore because you don't have to worry about depleting too quickly. If your normal gfo use lasts two months it is likely you do not have elevated phosphate anyway.
 

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