Euphyilla tips coming off

[NicksTanks223]

I’ve noticed lately that on my sand and rocks there are little neon pieces. I’m assuming from my euphyilla with neon green tips. It isn’t in strong flow to where they would rip off or anything. It is still opened up pretty big and is growing but I was just a little concerned. Has anyone else had similar experiences? Or what should I do?

 

[tjohnson3]

I’ve noticed lately that on my sand and rocks there are little neon pieces. I’m assuming from my euphyilla with neon green tips. It isn’t in strong flow to where they would rip off or anything. It is still opened up pretty big and is growing but I was just a little concerned. Has anyone else had similar experiences? Or what should I do?

Yup! What fish are in your tank?

 

[NicksTanks223]

Yup! What fish are in your tank?

2 clownfish and some type of goby I forget the name of. He just sits under rocks all day until feeding time though

 

[vetteguy53081]

Likely polyp bailout from stress. It takes a moderate level of skill to care for Hammer corals in a saltwater tank. Like most other coral species, Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
The hammer coral is considered to be an aggressive coral species that will attack its neighbors with sweeper tentacles. These are stinging nematocysts (similar to the sting of an anemone) on the end of a specialized polyp that can extend several inches away from the body of the coral. The sweeper tentacles pack a punch and will chemically burn any neighboring corals.
Hammer corals are more subdued eaters who would benefit from the occasional feeding of a meaty marine food like mysis and brine shrimp.

 

[NicksTanks223]

Likely polyp bailout from stress. It takes a moderate level of skill to care for Hammer corals in a saltwater tank. Like most other coral species, Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
The hammer coral is considered to be an aggressive coral species that will attack its neighbors with sweeper tentacles. These are stinging nematocysts (similar to the sting of an anemone) on the end of a specialized polyp that can extend several inches away from the body of the coral. The sweeper tentacles pack a punch and will chemically burn any neighboring corals.
Hammer corals are more subdued eaters who would benefit from the occasional feeding of a meaty marine food like mysis and brine shrimp.

Could an large drop in alk cause it? I just switched my water source from tap water to water from my lfs after I learned my tap water was at 15DKH and my lfs water is at about 8.3DKH. It is a 20 gallon and I did a 5 gallon wc yesterday so I’m guessing it probably dropped quite a bit, I will test it now to check current levels.

Update: Current alk about 10.9DKH

 

[vetteguy53081]

Could an large drop in alk cause it? I just switched my water source from tap water to water from my lfs after I learned my tap water was at 15DKH and my lfs water is at about 8.3DKH. It is a 20 gallon and I did a 5 gallon wc yesterday so I’m guessing it probably dropped quite a bit, I will test it now to check current levels.

Update: Current alk about 10.9DKH

That would be enough to stress them. Assure the water current isnt too strong but in fact moderate

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

Any scrymps in there?

 

[NicksTanks223]

That would be enough to stress them. Assure the water current isnt too strong but in fact moderate

Looks about right for this euphyilla I’m talking about, not to strong but enough to move it around a little. I’m wondering if my hammer is in to much flow. I don’t really have another place to put it either and my flow pump is on the lowest setting now. It is about at the point where just on the edge of it the tentacles are being pushed around quite a bit. I may have to lower the whole rock out of the flow a bit more. I just moved it to this location and it is definitely a lot smaller than it was before, in a location with little flow.

 

[NicksTanks223]

Any scrymps in there?

Never heard of a scrymp lol If that’s a different way to say shrimp, then yes I do have one shrimp. A coral banded shrimp. He stays out of the corals way until feeding time then he could care less about them being there.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Looks about right for this euphyilla I’m talking about, not to strong but enough to move it around a little. I’m wondering if my hammer is in to much flow. I don’t really have another place to put it either and my flow pump is on the lowest setting now. It is about at the point where just on the edge of it the tentacles are being pushed around quite a bit. I may have to lower the whole rock out of the flow a bit more. I just moved it to this location and it is definitely a lot smaller than it was before, in a location with little flow.

They should be waving in the flow, not bent or leaned to one side. reduce flow just slightly if unsure
salinity 1.025
twp 77-79
ph 8.1-8.3
nitrate < .5
alk 8-11
mag 1300
CA 440

 

[MnFish1]

Likely polyp bailout from stress. It takes a moderate level of skill to care for Hammer corals in a saltwater tank. Like most other coral species, Euphyllia requires Stable tank conditions, and is intolerant to major swings in water quality, and is sensitive to almost any level of copper in the water. Since they are a large polyp stony coral, calcium and alkalinity are two very important water parameters that will affect the growth of your coral. This coral will start to die off if the calcium levels are too low. A calcium level of about 400 ppm is just right.
This coral species isn’t terribly picky when it comes to the proper placement in your tank. The trick would really be just to avoid the extremes. Avoid extremely bright locations or areas of very high current, and avoid areas that are too dark or with currents that are too low. Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Hammer corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. Reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.
The hammer coral is considered to be an aggressive coral species that will attack its neighbors with sweeper tentacles. These are stinging nematocysts (similar to the sting of an anemone) on the end of a specialized polyp that can extend several inches away from the body of the coral. The sweeper tentacles pack a punch and will chemically burn any neighboring corals.
Hammer corals are more subdued eaters who would benefit from the occasional feeding of a meaty marine food like mysis and brine shrimp.

Nice summary from saltwateraquariumblog.com