Euphyllia dying streak

[Khoi_La]

I use chloramphenicol. I would honestly do a peroxide dip on all of your euphillia. Antibiotics work good they are just slow and if they are infected these antibiotics will not kill the infection and stop it progression like peroxide would. Second, one thing I've learned is that usually there is an initial cause to the infection. Usually brown jelly doesn't just start and take over out of nowhere there is usually trama to a coral that allows the infection to settle in or chemistry issues that weaken the coral, allowing the infection to settle. I believe that BJD an other bacteria is always present in alot of our aquariums. Another think is I've seen a direct correlation to carbon dosing. If you are currently carbon dosing like NOPOX I would stop and let the tank chill for awhile before starting up again. Carbon dosing literally adds fuel to the flames.

Thank you so much, one last question i have is do you use 100% pure hydroxide? Or the 30% one? And ive been using chemipure elite? Should i take it off?

 

[Rmckoy]

Some euphillia such as torch coral . It was said years ago once one head dies , it will effect the others and the only way to stop it was to cut off the dead parts .

I think it was reference to brown jelly ,

I’m sure times have changed but this is the reason why I haven’t kept torch corals in years .

I have always had issues keeping them alive

 

[William Morris]

Some euphillia such as torch coral . It was said years ago once one head dies , it will effect the others and the only way to stop it was to cut off the dead parts .

I think it was reference to brown jelly ,

I’m sure times have changed but this is the reason why I haven’t kept torch corals in years .

I have always had issues keeping them alive

I won't try and keep torch's anymore either. Branching hammers I will do.

 

[Rmckoy]

I won't try and keep torch's anymore either. Branching hammers I will do.

Hammers and frogspawn are the only euphillia I have

 

[Auto-pilot]

Thank you so much, one last question i have is do you use 100% pure hydroxide? Or the 30% one? And ive been using chemipure elite? Should i take it off?

Good question! Tmif you go to Walgreens or any convenience store really they sell hydrogen peroxide at a 3% concentration. That's what I would use if I were you

 

[kartrsu]

Did you start with live rock or dry rock? I almost wiped out my euphyllia collection after I introduced live sand from the ocean into my tank. Did ICP test and it came back all in line. Did multiple large water changes, dialed back flow, dialed back lighting, upped the nutrients, dipped in iodine, dip in coralrx, nothing would turn them around until I moved them out of the tank into a known stable system. I ended up nuking my old tank and starting over. My euphyllia are doing great now and recovered.

 

[amazongb]

I've had some euphyllia coral in my tank for four years thriving, then all of a sudden some heads whither and die. I'll usually frag at that point, saving whatever heads I can.. I also move frags to a frag rack so I can rule out warfare, monitor etc, then only mount again once fully healthy. Whenever I see a head struggle, I change carbon, do a water change etc.. But I think it's important to isolate the coral, remove dead heads (especially if brown jelly is suspected).

 

[Khoi_La]

Did you start with live rock or dry rock? I almost wiped out my euphyllia collection after I introduced live sand from the ocean into my tank. Did ICP test and it came back all in line. Did multiple large water changes, dialed back flow, dialed back lighting, upped the nutrients, dipped in iodine, dip in coralrx, nothing would turn them around until I moved them out of the tank into a known stable system. I ended up nuking my old tank and starting over. My euphyllia are doing great now and recovered.

I started with dry rock and caribsea sand. Im upgrading to a 125 soon so i moved all my corals to a qt tank now

 

[Khoi_La]

Update: after i dipped every euphyllias in 30% peroxide (1 gal tank water, about 500ml of h2o2 to be safe). The spread seems to slower down, but now my 2 years wall hammer started to melt as well as my 3 yo frogspawns. I did a 75% water change today as well as another h2o2 dip today, so hopefully there wont be another loss. Ill keep updating until it stops or every euphyllia dies.
Also i did a research and saw that chemiclean is also a form of antibiotic? I was wonderong if i should consider adding it.

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Evening,

Sorry you are going thru this. @Rmckoy said the best bet for survival. It is not BJD. I have had this happen, as many of us have. I have researched for a long time trying to find a cause and a cure. Never found a cause.

The only way I can say to stop it is by fragging. Branching type are easy. As others mentioned once a head starts, snip it at the base it it will usually stop. I have left branches thinking it would stop on its own before. After losing 4 I would ship them and it was over.

I never did wall, but I would checking into if you are able to frag. If you can get all the skeleton out and leave only healthy skeleton fully covered in polyps is should stop.

This is based my experience after going thru everything I could think of

 

[DarkReefer]

Some euphillia such as torch coral . It was said years ago once one head dies , it will effect the others and the only way to stop it was to cut off the dead parts .

I think it was reference to brown jelly ,

I’m sure times have changed but this is the reason why I haven’t kept torch corals in years .

I have always had issues keeping them alive

This has me concerned as I had one head on my torch die off a few weeks back, I did redip and clean out the dead head but it's still attached to the same plug. Torch seems to be doing very well though, lots of extension and the hammers over the other side of the tank also look healthy, so maybe I was able to dodge it?

Sorry to hear you're going through this OP, really hope you can get on top of it soon.

 

[Khoi_La]

Evening,

Sorry you are going thru this. @Rmckoy said the best bet for survival. It is not BJD. I have had this happen, as many of us have. I have researched for a long time trying to find a cause and a cure. Never found a cause.

The only way I can say to stop it is by fragging. Branching type are easy. As others mentioned once a head starts, snip it at the base it it will usually stop. I have left branches thinking it would stop on its own before. After losing 4 I would ship them and it was over.

I never did wall, but I would checking into if you are able to frag. If you can get all the skeleton out and leave only healthy skeleton fully covered in polyps is should stop.

This is based my experience after going thru everything I could think of

The hammer i have is wall, so im just accepting the fact that itll be gone by tomorrow. The frogspawn i have has 3 main branches, the infected head is in the branch with 5 heads, they are not branching out much to frag easily, any tips on doing this? Or should i just break the big branch off now?

 

[Khoi_La]

This has me concerned as I had one head on my torch die off a few weeks back, I did redip and clean out the dead head but it's still attached to the same plug. Torch seems to be doing very well though, lots of extension and the hammers over the other side of the tank also look healthy, so maybe I was able to dodge it?

Sorry to hear you're going through this OP, really hope you can get on top of it soon.

Thank you! From going with a bunch of euphyllias im down to 4, and theyre slowly melting away too so at this point ive come to acceptance that ive lost 4 years worth of electricity bills and lots of money

 

[Mastiffsrule]

The hammer i have is wall, so im just accepting the fact that itll be gone by tomorrow. The frogspawn i have has 3 main branches, the infected head is in the branch with 5 heads, they are not branching out much to frag easily, any tips on doing this? Or should i just break the big branch off now?

The best option is to frag the one affected head only as far down the branch you can get with snips. If another head shows any white skeleton where polyps are missing pull that too .

I would not snip off anything that is healthy, but it will not hurt sniping further down the base either. If you need to separate a larger colony to gain access you might need to do that. Goal is to remove any signs of disease pieces and leave the whole heads

 

[Auto-pilot]

When yout dip it in peroxide get a turkey baster and clean out all infected areas. I wouldn't Frag a wall hammer that has an infection as the fagged part will become re infected. If you are dosing carbon i would stop at this point. I would get a UV light as I swear it helps with this issue. Antibiotics help and i have even added them to a running system with no issues. Ive been where your at and it sucks.

 

[Khoi_La]

Thank you everyone for your help. As this point the spread seems to stop after fragging off the damaged head and a h2o2 bath. ( i fragged off the entire branch just to be safe, so i got rid of a few good heads too). I will keep update until i beat this crap out off my tank!

 

[William Morris]

Thank you everyone for your help. As this point the spread seems to stop after fragging off the damaged head and a h2o2 bath. ( i fragged off the entire branch just to be safe, so i got rid of a few good heads too). I will keep update until i beat this crap out off my tank!

What did you use to frag the heads off? Some type of saw or a bone cutter?

 

[Khoi_La]

What did you use to frag the heads off? Some type of saw or a bone cutter?

Bone cutter for most of em. For some i just break em off easily w mybhand

 

[William Morris]

I am afraid of crushing the rest of the coral with the bone cutter.

 

[Khoi_La]

I am afraid of crushing the rest of the coral with the bone cutter.

Some of the branching is easy to break with your hands if youre afraid to use the bone cutter. Just be careful to add not too much force or you may cut your hands.