Euphyllia focus of receding tissue

[Javierati]

I’m unsure if I need to worry or not. I have been monitoring this beautiful torch coral. I’m general it has been doing great but recently I notice a small focus of receding tissue and at times I see the tentacles in this area look a bit affected.

tank parameters have remained stable

Alk 9.25
pH 8.15
Ca 530
Mg 1308 (slightly low)
Temp 78
ORP 350

I have been direct feeding with Reef roids
I have been looking for worms or fish nipping but nothing.
Any comment ?

 

[Jekyl]

Nitrate and phosphate?

 

[Javierati]

Nitrate and phosphate?

I had a spike in both nitrate and phosphate about a week ago. Phosphate rose to 0.14 and Nitrate was at 25.
The cause? The protein skimmer water level was left too low and thus not skimming. And the socks clogged and we’re not filtering.

I’ve tackled both and now Nitrate is as 10 and phosphate at 0.10

Trying to lower them further, but that’s were they stand now.

 

[Glenner’sreef]

What about flow? It’s not getting hit too hard is it?

 

[Jekyl]

Swaying parameters can cause unhappy corals also.

 

[Javierati]

What about flow? It’s not getting hit too hard is it?

I would say moderate but it’s an irregular flow and intermittent.

 

[Javierati]

Swaying parameters can cause unhappy corals also.

Agree. It was an isolated event but could have caused some stress to LPS corals. Hopefully with stable parameters going forward, everything will look better soon.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Not necessarily a parameter issue as these corals can be forgiving but ship poorly if it was a new acquisition. For starters, If you have leather corals, this may be part of the issue. Many leather coral species produce and release toxic chemicals, called terpenes, into the water to protect themselves and to stunt the growth of other species. One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including a temperature around 78 degrees, a specific gravity of about 1.025, ph of about 8.2, and a calcium level of about 400 ppm. Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting. Torches are aggressive corals that protect themselves by wielding their sweeper tentacles maliciously. Sweeper tentacles are specialized tentacles that extend much larger than the typical tentacles and are equipped with stinging cells. Torches will send out these long tendrils to zap anything nearby within reach.

 

[Mical]

How long has tank been set up?

 

[Javierati]

How long has tank been set up?

5 months

 

[Mical]

5 months

That could be part of the problem. IME torches are temperamental to newer tanks.

 

[WereAllNegan]

Not necessarily a parameter issue as these corals can be forgiving but ship poorly if it was a new acquisition. For starters, If you have leather corals, this may be part of the issue. Many leather coral species produce and release toxic chemicals, called terpenes, into the water to protect themselves and to stunt the growth of other species. One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including a temperature around 78 degrees, a specific gravity of about 1.025, ph of about 8.2, and a calcium level of about 400 ppm. Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting. Torches are aggressive corals that protect themselves by wielding their sweeper tentacles maliciously. Sweeper tentacles are specialized tentacles that extend much larger than the typical tentacles and are equipped with stinging cells. Torches will send out these long tendrils to zap anything nearby within reach.

Danm dude thats so interesting to know. Thanks for taking the time to write out such an informative response.

 

[Paston1]

I’m unsure if I need to worry or not. I have been monitoring this beautiful torch coral. I’m general it has been doing great but recently I notice a small focus of receding tissue and at times I see the tentacles in this area look a bit affected.

tank parameters have remained stable

Alk 9.25
pH 8.15
Ca 530
Mg 1308 (slightly low)
Temp 78
ORP 350

I have been direct feeding with Reef roids
I have been looking for worms or fish nipping but nothing.
Any comment ?

Quit direct feed, get your flow to pulse, increase mag to adjust cal absorption rate.

 

[Paston1]

Not necessarily a parameter issue as these corals can be forgiving but ship poorly if it was a new acquisition. For starters, If you have leather corals, this may be part of the issue. Many leather coral species produce and release toxic chemicals, called terpenes, into the water to protect themselves and to stunt the growth of other species. One of the biggest problems I have seen beginner hobbyists have is failing to account for the calcium demand for these corals. If there is insufficient calcium in your aquarium water, these corals will not be able to make their coral skeleton. You should also never lift a torch coral out of the water if you can avoid it. You could tear the polyps, and torn polyps are prone to infection followed by necrosis
Torch require typical parameters including a temperature around 78 degrees, a specific gravity of about 1.025, ph of about 8.2, and a calcium level of about 400 ppm. Like most large polyp stony corals, a torch coral benefits from moderate water flow. The polyps will remain retracted and under-inflated if the water current is too fast because the large flowing polyps are prone to rip and tear in high or ultra-high current environments.
The torch coral is a photosynthetic coral, meaning it has a relationship with symbiotic zooxanthellae (single-cell photosynthetic organisms) that live inside its tissues that converts the light energy into sugar. In exchange for a home inside the coral, the zooxanthellae split their harvest and feed the coral. Therefore, it is possible to keep the Torch coral without any feeding at all. However, all corals are animals, and animals are meant to eat.
The best placement for a torch coral is in a location that gets moderate water flow and moderate-intensity lighting. Torches are aggressive corals that protect themselves by wielding their sweeper tentacles maliciously. Sweeper tentacles are specialized tentacles that extend much larger than the typical tentacles and are equipped with stinging cells. Torches will send out these long tendrils to zap anything nearby within reach.

Discuss it in its entirety on flow. They pulse in the ocean. Red light for their photosynthesis and their extension. Add additional color and it will extend.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Discuss it in its entirety on flow. They pulse in the ocean. Red light for their photosynthesis and their extension. Add additional color and it will extend.

ad and run red light and see how much algae will eventually be present. Ive had hammers at least 30 years and one thing with flow since you want to discuss. . . . Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Euphyllia corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. If shrinking, reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.

May I see some of your Euphyllia??

Here are SOME of mine:

 

[Paston1]

ad and run red light and see how much algae will eventually be present. Ive had hammers at least 30 years and one thing with flow since you want to discuss. . . . Fast currents risk damaging the soft, fleshy polyps (and getting an infection). Bright lights will cause bleaching. Insufficient lighting will cause the poor coral to wither away and starve to death.
Euphyllia corals only require a moderate amount of light for photosynthesis and can grow well in the intermediate regions of your tank. Just about any reef LED lighting should be sufficient for most tanks. If shrinking, reduce white light intensity and get it off the sand bed which sand can irritate it.
The polyps should sway in the current, but not sustain so much pressure they are constantly bent over their skeleton. Too much flow will tear the polyps (worst case) and cause the polyps do not extend in the first place (best case). So, don’t give them too much flow.

May I see some of your Euphyllia??

Here are SOME of mine:

I’m familiar with euphyllia. Why mentioned lighting. Discuss the cades, that’s why he has tissue recession. Red controls that photosynthesis and the zoo inside. Warm and cool white help control it as well but to a limited amount. It will increase of decrease tissue over time. 100% agree on minimal lighting needs due to depth and location on the reef.
His water could super clean as well, you know after 30 years how euphyllia loves some nutrient rich water lol.
Flow is touchy always. I believe in more flow. The more the better just not directly on the coral. Euphyllia moves in the wild but it also bounces/pulses too. like a 2-3 second back and forth. Google karang dive, I guess that’s what Indonesians call them, you see more videos of their movement. Granted I’m talking torch more than hammer lol.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Euphyllia prefers nutrient rich water as mine are extremely low and corals happy which are many
Not saying no red- just have to. Intro kit.
my reds on orphek are at 4% Max

 

[WereAllNegan]

I’m familiar with euphyllia. Why mentioned lighting. Discuss the cades, that’s why he has tissue recession. Red controls that photosynthesis and the zoo inside. Warm and cool white help control it as well but to a limited amount. It will increase of decrease tissue over time. 100% agree on minimal lighting needs due to depth and location on the reef.
His water could super clean as well, you know after 30 years how euphyllia loves some nutrient rich water lol.
Flow is touchy always. I believe in more flow. The more the better just not directly on the coral. Euphyllia moves in the wild but it also bounces/pulses too. like a 2-3 second back and forth. Google karang dive, I guess that’s what Indonesians call them, you see more videos of their movement. Granted I’m talking torch more than hammer lol.

Hello Paston1,
I have two torches that have been worrying me lately and not sure what to think. They both fully extend and look happy but my only concern is that for the past 8 months or so, the white tissue on the base of the skeleton has been receeding and is now pretty close to the tentacles. Some which now look deflated and stringy.
I checked my calcium, magnesium, alk, sal, phosphates and found those to be within the norm.

The only thing is my nitrates, they sit at zero or usually barely detectable (Salifert). Its been like this for over a year. Could that be the culprit? Lack of nitrates? I've tried spot feeding them mysys, reef roids and reef chilli with no luck. They just spit it back out.

I'm afraid the tissue will continue to receed and one day ✌. Heres are some pics and videos of flow and lighting. This is in a 7gallon cube 12×12". Yes tiny lol
I have an AI Prime HD running at 13watts, sitting 9 inches from the surface. Any advice is appreciated. Don't want to loose these

 

[Paston1]

Hello Paston1,
I have two torches that have been worrying me lately and not sure what to think. They both fully extend and look happy but my only concern is that for the past 8 months or so, the white tissue on the base of the skeleton has been receeding and is now pretty close to the tentacles. Some which now look deflated and stringy.
I checked my calcium, magnesium, alk, sal, phosphates and found those to be within the norm.

The only thing is my nitrates, they sit at zero or usually barely detectable (Salifert). Its been like this for over a year. Could that be the culprit? Lack of nitrates? I've tried spot feeding them mysys, reef roids and reef chilli with no luck. They just spit it back out.

I'm afraid the tissue will continue to receed and one day ✌. Heres are some pics and videos of flow and lighting. This is in a 7gallon cube 12×12". Yes tiny lol
I have an AI Prime HD running at 13watts, sitting 9 inches from the surface. Any advice is appreciated. Don't want to loose these

Looks like it’s splitting. I wouldn’t worry about it unless flow is beating it up heavily. I have some Aussie with low tissue, Malaysians will literally 0 and then indos that go down to the plug lol.