Fallow After Brook Outbreak

[sbash]

Hi Everybody,

I screwed up my QT protocol and caused a ridiculous brooklynella outbreak in my DT. My question is two part:

First, since a couple fish survived, how long should I wait before adding new fish? I.e. I would assume since there could still be a risk of them catching it, the fallow period should be extended based on the lifecycle of the parasite. My plan is to wait 4 weeks from the last death, then add the recommended 6 week 'fallow'; thus making it a 10 week waiting period in total.

Second, how are corals affected? For example, I have several which need to be fragged back, so I'll hang a frag rack, and they should be safe to move into other systems after the 10 week waiting period?

As a slight aside, I also need to move some corals INTO this tank, these corals have been in an isolated environment for at least 8-10 weeks (August 24 was the last time I brought a new coral into any of my tanks). Actually, having written this out, I'll wait until the 11 week mark (next Friday) just to play it super safe - although they are cohabiting with other fish right now...

Thanks!

 

[HotRocks]

6 weeks fallow will eliminate Brook. That's 6 weeks from the last death or when last living fish is removed.

Corals are no worry. They can stay in the tank during fallow.

Just FYI a 76 day fallow period would erradicate pretty much all parasites except for uronema. It does not need fish to survive.

 

[sbash]

6 weeks fallow will eliminate Brook. That's 6 weeks from the last death or when last living fish is removed.

Corals are no worry. They can stay in the tank during fallow.

Just FYI a 76 day fallow period would erradicate pretty much all parasites except for uronema. It does not need fish to survive.

Okay good good... So even with a couple fish left, it is still only a 6 week waiting period?

 

[HotRocks]

Fallow means fishless. So it's 6 weeks from when the fish are completely removed from the system to be fallow.

 

[sbash]

Fallow means fishless. So it's 6 weeks from when the fish are completely removed from the system to be fallow.

Right, fallow does imply fishless... However, I'm not trying to catch a wrasse and a damsel in my 220 gallon tank, lol... Talk about an exercise in futility

So, since this isn't a real fallow... which was my concern about my original question not actually being answered...

 

[sbash]

Okay, so circling back to this after I have done a bunch more reading...

Even if I can get the fish out, what can I get in Canada to treat the fish in QT? Formalin isn't an option here...

If I can't get the fish out, I guess I will just have to fallow the tank in a couple years when they die... It is a 220+ gallon, so I can't even drain the water to catch them...

 

[HotRocks]

I'm sorry I thought I answered your question.

Fallow = Fishless. Meaning 0 fish in the tank. A single fish would allow the parasite to cycle and remain active in the tank. So once there are zero fish it takes 6 weeks to eradicate brook. So unless you get all of the fish out there is no point in removing any of them. Brook can and will afflict any fish, but is most harmful/common in clowns. So that being said your wrasse can allow the parasites to cycle but not show symptoms or even be affected.

I am not sure what all can be had in Canada. Can you get seachem metroplex or anything containing metronidazole? 10 day treatment of metronidazole will take care of the fish.
@Kyl

I have helped a friend breakdown a 180 mixed reef (That was infected with velvet), removed 14 fish to QT. Had all rock and coral back in the tank under 2hrs. It is a pain and a mess yes. It can be done. Brute cans and Rubbermaid totes surrounding tank. Siphon water off. moving rock/coral to bins as tank level drops. Then catch fish and pump water back in. We put all of the rock/coral in randomly. Waited till next day when It cleared up and then re-aquascaped the tank. Took another hour. So three hours of work for 2 people.

Note: any fragged coral wouldn't be safe to move to another system with fish, until they have been in a system that is completely fishless for 6 weeks.

 

[JumboShrimp]

I bet the Wrasse— curious and always exploring— would eventually be caught in a plexiglass trap. And for the Damsel, I’d get two nets which are probably 3x the size you generally use; I bet you corral him up against the glass and out. You. Can. Do. It!!

 

[Kyl]

We can get metroplex for another month or so, then apparently any antibiotics will be available only via vet script, including the triple threat. The only medications on the list that I've wanted to use, but couldn't really are CP and Acriflavine-MS (though available via ruby reef rally).

 

[sbash]

I'm sorry I thought I answered your question.

Fallow = Fishless. Meaning 0 fish in the tank. A single fish would allow the parasite to cycle and remain active in the tank. So once there are zero fish it takes 6 weeks to eradicate brook. So unless you get all of the fish out there is no point in removing any of them. Brook can and will afflict any fish, but is most harmful/common in clowns. So that being said your wrasse can allow the parasites to cycle but not show symptoms or even be affected.

I am not sure what all can be had in Canada. Can you get seachem metroplex or anything containing metronidazole? 10 day treatment of metronidazole will take care of the fish.

I have helped a friend breakdown a 180 mixed reef (That was infected with velvet), removed 14 fish to QT. Had all rock and coral back in the tank under 2hrs. It is a pain and a mess yes. It can be done. Brute cans and Rubbermaid totes surrounding tank. Siphon water off. moving rock/coral to bins as tank level drops. Then catch fish and pump water back in. We put all of the rock/coral in randomly. Waited till next day when It cleared up and then re-aquascaped the tank. Took another hour. So three hours of work for 2 people.

Note: any fragged coral wouldn't be safe to move to another system with fish, until they have been in a system that is completely fishless for 6 weeks.

Thank you for the more thorough and clear response, I do appreciate it.

I can get Metroplex, and probably have some. I'm not sure how I missed it as a treatment option.

If I can't catch the fish with a trap, I'm not going to break this tank down to catch a couple fish. I might consider it if I have a couple months between contracts (day job) over the next year. For now I'll just plan on only trimming and fragging what needs to be trimmed and set up a QT for them before redistributing or selling.

I bet the Wrasse— curious and always exploring— would eventually be caught in a plexiglass trap. And for the Damsel, I’d get two nets which are probably 3x the size you generally use; I bet you corral him up against the glass and out. You. Can. Do. It!!

I tried for about a week in my trap a couple months ago (although not very active attempts). I have a two year old and a 2 month old, plus I am self employed, so my time is limited to sit and monitor a trap, lol... I'll give it a shot again though; if I stop feeding them for a couple days, they might be more motivated to get the food out of the trap

The wrasse is also small enough a pop bottle (sorry, soda bottle) trap might work too... Thanks!

We can get metroplex for another month or so, then apparently any antibiotics will be available only via vet script, including the triple threat. The only medications on the list that I've wanted to use, but couldn't really are CP and Acriflavine-MS (though available via ruby reef rally).

Oh interesting, I'll have to look into that.

The only CP I have found is NLS Ick Shield. Not pharmaceutical grade, but probably effective (although if I use it as a reaction it doesn't seem to work).

 

[Kyl]

Thank you for the more thorough and clear response, I do appreciate it.

I can get Metroplex, and probably have some. I'm not sure how I missed it as a treatment option.

If I can't catch the fish with a trap, I'm not going to break this tank down to catch a couple fish. I might consider it if I have a couple months between contracts (day job) over the next year. For now I'll just plan on only trimming and fragging what needs to be trimmed and set up a QT for them before redistributing or selling.



I tried for about a week in my trap a couple months ago (although not very active attempts). I have a two year old and a 2 month old, plus I am self employed, so my time is limited to sit and monitor a trap, lol... I'll give it a shot again though; if I stop feeding them for a couple days, they might be more motivated to get the food out of the trap

The wrasse is also small enough a pop bottle (sorry, soda bottle) trap might work too... Thanks!



Oh interesting, I'll have to look into that.

The only CP I have found is NLS Ick Shield. Not pharmaceutical grade, but probably effective (although if I use it as a reaction it doesn't seem to work).

CP in food, imo, won't do squat.

Your best option, unless you have a very accommodating vet, is to use copper on those species that can handle it coupled with a hanna HR copper checker. For the others like brook, while I haven't looked into it much, acriflavine should do the trick (rally).

 

[kintle]

Just lost 2 phantoms to brook was rough to watch. I still have a wrase and gobey in the tank and haveing similar concerns. Lucky enough to have a bullseye shrimp paired with the gobey and have heard this is uncommon so been pondering if its worth the fallow period if they no longer seem bonded afterwards. Will likely have to since my wife really only liked the clowns. The cranky old man gobey is my favorite though so not sure what I'll do.