fallow tank and heat
- Thread starter Jamtrader
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Elysium
Well-Known Member
I would, just to keep whatever biological filter that is established happy. Any particular reason they are going into QT?
You can also raise the heat in the tank to speed up the life (and death) cycle of any suspected parasites in the tank that require the fish to survive.
You can also raise the heat in the tank to speed up the life (and death) cycle of any suspected parasites in the tank that require the fish to survive.
jedimasterben
Bubble coral sting good
^ all of that.
And I'd watch out when you go to put the fish back in the main tank - depending on the current bioload fully stocked, there will be die-off during the fallow period, and I'd add the fish back slowly. I'd also purchase a Seachem Ammonia alert to put into the tank when you start putting fish back in so you'll know if ammonia builds up.
And I'd watch out when you go to put the fish back in the main tank - depending on the current bioload fully stocked, there will be die-off during the fallow period, and I'd add the fish back slowly. I'd also purchase a Seachem Ammonia alert to put into the tank when you start putting fish back in so you'll know if ammonia builds up.
Dr. Reef
www.drreefsquarantinedfish.com
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yes u do have to maintain the water parameters. if u dont keep salinity between 1.009-1.026 and temp between 74-84F while keeping ammonia nitrites 0 and nitrates under 20ppm, also need water movement or skimmer u will lose the beneficial bacteria keeping ur tank alive and filtered.
This might be ok if u dont care and will clean the tank out and re-start the cycle and start from scratch but if u dont wanna go through all the hassle of cleaning and cycling again then keep tank/equipment running just as u normal tank along with feeding it every 3rd day. remember no food no ammonia no bacteria no cycle.
This might be ok if u dont care and will clean the tank out and re-start the cycle and start from scratch but if u dont wanna go through all the hassle of cleaning and cycling again then keep tank/equipment running just as u normal tank along with feeding it every 3rd day. remember no food no ammonia no bacteria no cycle.
Greg@LionfishLair
Community Member
Do you use treated tapwater? If you're treating tapwater, many ammonia test kits register TOTAL ammonia, which includes the bound, harmless ammonia as well as the toxic "free" ammonia. This may be what you're seeing.
Your nitrates really shouldn't change TOO much unless you're ghost-feeding the tank (as you should). Then, I'd expect them to rise a bit.
Are you ghost feeding the tank? You need to feed the bacteria you have established or they will die back to whatever level of food is available to them.
There's another thing that can happen if you ghost feed a tank TOO much...you can actually stall the nitrogen cycle, however, I assume this isn't the issue.
HTH
Your nitrates really shouldn't change TOO much unless you're ghost-feeding the tank (as you should). Then, I'd expect them to rise a bit.
Are you ghost feeding the tank? You need to feed the bacteria you have established or they will die back to whatever level of food is available to them.
There's another thing that can happen if you ghost feed a tank TOO much...you can actually stall the nitrogen cycle, however, I assume this isn't the issue.
HTH
cbb_70
Active Member
125 gallons...
Well I've been just waiting it out... it comes and goes. Everyone eats and looks normal... besides a few spots. Feed alot! Try to keep stress to a minimum...
I also installed a UV sterilizer and never had an outbreak as bad as the first one before I had the UV.
Well I've been just waiting it out... it comes and goes. Everyone eats and looks normal... besides a few spots. Feed alot! Try to keep stress to a minimum...
I also installed a UV sterilizer and never had an outbreak as bad as the first one before I had the UV.
