Feedback on Plumbing

DocRose

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Jun 20, 2021
Messages
495
Reaction score
364
Location
Redford, MI
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Just looking for input on my plumbing plans for my new Red Sea Reefer 250. Getting rid of the stock plumbing to go with orange pipes. The first image is inside the stand, and the second image is of the back with the UV sterilizer mounted there. Arrows show the flow of water. Little gray rectangles are unions. Short gray pieces with the red circle are Spears gate valves. I know there's 3 junctions in the return manifold, with only 2 being used. The third (the one in the middle) is for if I ever decide to add another reactor. For now I'm only going to be running a carbon reactor. My biggest concern is the way I'm tying the UV back into the return line. Want to be sure I'm doing that correctly. Thanks in advanced for input!

Inside Stand.jpg
Back of Stand.jpg
 
Last edited:
I don't think that check valve on the output of the UV will work with the preasure from the return pump on it.
I would rout the UV output back to the sump and not tie it back in to the return like the drawing showes.
 
I don't think that check valve on the output of the UV will work with the preasure from the return pump on it.
I would rout the UV output back to the sump and not tie it back in to the return like the drawing showes.
Good point on the check valve. I'll make that adjustment, but I'm not keen on running the UV outlet back into the sump. While I know eventually all of the water will make it through the UV, I know it's more efficient to not have a sump to sump loop. To get the most effectiveness out of a UV it needs to be a sump to display loop. I changed the picture in the OP to show replacing the check valve with another gate valve instead.
 
Last edited:
Good point on the check valve. I'll make that adjustment, but I'm not keen on running the UV outlet back into the sump. While I know eventually all of the water will make it through the UV, I know it's more efficient to not have a sump to sump loop. To get the most effectiveness out of a UV it needs to be a sump to display loop.
You could tie the UV into the return loop first and eliminate the check valve. Then add your manifold. This would limit your return flow to your UV flow rate though.

I have my UV recirculating through the sump and like it that way even if it is processing some of the water multiple times.

Everything that you put on your manifold that returns to the main return line will effect your ability to balance your flow and keep it quiet.

I use a second "accessory pump" to run that sort of gear so the return rate is always consistent.
 
@Sean Clark would this be better? Adding a second pump for just the UV, but then tying the UV back into the return line. My concern is that the flow from the UV back into the return (minimum of 30gph up to 356gph...Pentair 18W UV) won't be strong enough to contend with the water already flowing through the return line (at least 660gph). I'm concerned that the return line pressure will just push back into the line coming from the UV since it's stronger. Thoughts?
Inside Stand.jpg
 
You could tie the UV into the return loop first and eliminate the check valve. Then add your manifold. This would limit your return flow to your UV flow rate though.

I have my UV recirculating through the sump and like it that way even if it is processing some of the water multiple times.

Everything that you put on your manifold that returns to the main return line will effect your ability to balance your flow and keep it quiet.

I use a second "accessory pump" to run that sort of gear so the return rate is always consistent.
Agree
 
@Sean Clark would this be better? Adding a second pump for just the UV, but then tying the UV back into the return line. My concern is that the flow from the UV back into the return (minimum of 30gph up to 356gph...Pentair 18W UV) won't be strong enough to contend with the water already flowing through the return line (at least 660gph). I'm concerned that the return line pressure will just push back into the line coming from the UV since it's stronger. Thoughts?
Inside Stand.jpg
Your right thats what will happen.

you could tie it in tho as a bypass, put a bypass and manually shut down flow from return then open flow from u.v but like sean said before you would always need to mess with flow when your using u.v or going to normal operation.

I agree separate pump separate return line to the tank adjust the gate valve accordingly and run the u.v 24/7 and when you stop using u.v and second pump readjust the gate valve again to match flow required.
 
@Sean Clark would this be better? Adding a second pump for just the UV, but then tying the UV back into the return line. My concern is that the flow from the UV back into the return (minimum of 30gph up to 356gph...Pentair 18W UV) won't be strong enough to contend with the water already flowing through the return line (at least 660gph). I'm concerned that the return line pressure will just push back into the line coming from the UV since it's stronger. Thoughts?
Inside Stand.jpg
I don't think that will work well either. I don't think you would be able to keep it balanced. I would put it back to the sump.
 
Your right thats what will happen.
Thanks for confirming my suspicion.

I agree separate pump separate return line to the tank adjust the gate valve accordingly and run the u.v 24/7 and when you stop using u.v and second pump readjust the gate valve again to match flow required.
The only issue with this, is that this is a Red Sea Reefer 250. There's only a single return pipe inlet. That's why I was trying to tie the main return and UV return into the same line. The only other option would be to run the UV output straight from the UV up to the tank, and use a HOB return nozzle. I don't really want to do that, as I'm trying to minimalize having anything in the display other than fish and corals (and the powerheads).

I guess my only option is going to be to run the UV return pump from the sump drain chamber, and the UV outlet back into the sump return chamber.
 
Thanks for confirming my suspicion.


The only issue with this, is that this is a Red Sea Reefer 250. There's only a single return pipe inlet. That's why I was trying to tie the main return and UV return into the same line. The only other option would be to run the UV output straight from the UV up to the tank, and use a HOB return nozzle. I don't really want to do that, as I'm trying to minimalize having anything in the display other than fish and corals (and the powerheads).

I guess my only option is going to be to run the UV return pump from the sump drain chamber, and the UV outlet back into the sump return chamber.
I get it i feel the same way about creeping over the edge of a beautiful rimless tank but do it in black pvc it might not be so bad. Maybe if you only use it temporarily you can put unions and disassemble it when not in use.

Or go sump to sump plenty of people have done it its cleaner looking thats for sure, but not questioning that in tank circulation is the best. With pump in the display and return on the opposite side of the display, maybe you could do it like that if you only run it temporarily.

Either way I get it about minimal things in the tank, thats one of the battles of this hobby
 
What did you decide to do with this?
I'm still sticking with that latest mock-up that you quoted in your post. I was waiting on parts to arrive. One of them I had to order from Germany (since our U.S. metric conversion parts only go from 16mm to 3/4 in. and I needed a 16mm to 1/2 in.). I had a conference to go to this week too! But, I got an email saying that my package arrived and it was the final piece I needed. When I get home I'll start putting it all together, and you can see it on my build thread.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top