Feeding hammers and torch’s

[Cichlid Dad]

I think your problem is your low magnesium. They tend to do better at 1400 or a little higher. I occasionally feed mysis with an eye dropper, placing it close to the mouth. I also broadcast feed reef chili.

Agreed, I have thriving frogs and hammer @1425 mag

 

[VintageReefer]

I have a 75g with a mp40 and mp10 that are about 8 years old. My torch is nearly in front of the mp10 but i keep it on level 2

My mp40 is opposite side of the tank, approx 75% and in nutrient transport mode. Your lights and power heads are more than fine. I see coralline so the tank is established.

IMO your hammer and torch are reversed. Torches like medium to high flow and hammers like low to low/medium flow. Actually, I would argue that the torch is in a prime hammer spot, and the hammer is in a prime torch spot.

 

[Cichlid Dad]

My tank is 22 inches deep. My torches are mid tank 200 to 250 par. Hammers are at the bottom 125 to 175 par.

Flow is another primary consideration. Torches in low moderate and hammers low flow. My MP40s only read 27% intensity during peak day and 20% overnight. I also have 38 SPS frags and colonies at the top and that is plenty flow for them and par too at 300 to 350.

That is why my torche died and my hammers thrive. I had the torch @ 100 par LOL, I will be trying it again at higher par. Thank you

 

[VintageReefer]

I would raise the mp’s higher also. I keep them towards the top so they can create a gyre effect.

 

[Lavey29]

Here is a short video of flow in my tank for your reference. My tank is 36x22x22.

 

[Johnic]

Beautiful tank, I keep my MP40s 3 inches below the surface so I get really good surface ripple for aeration. I have them on reef crest anti sync.

Confirm your par with renting a good par meter. Please provide a short video so we can see your flow levels for your euphyllia.

Thanks a lot. Just rebooted a 10 year old tank last sept. So this tank is little over a year now.
I just slowed down my mp40 to 1/3 the flow. About 4 light from the left side on feed crest/lagoon.

Light is measured with a new mq-510

 

[Johnic]

I would raise the mp’s higher also. I keep them towards the top so they can create a gyre effect.

Ok. I’ll give that a try.

 

[kevgib67]

Agreed, I have thriving frogs and hammer @1425 mag

I really struggle to get and keep it above 1400. I use Fritz RPM that states it is 1350. I tested a fresh mix of salt water and it was exactly 1350. I does up my salt water prior to adding it during a water change.

 

[Johnic]

I wasn't trying to be funny... It often takes a lot of trial and error to determine what may be causing dinos or cyano. If you already made the connection, then it's an easy choice

Agreed. Amino’s tend to always give me problems.

 

[Cichlid Dad]

@kevgib67 I do the same. I run my tank 450 10 and 1425. So I adjust my water for water changes. I dose the dry all for reef to my magnesium and add 2 part to keep alk and calcium level.

 

[Cichlid Dad]

.

 

[Johnic]

Here’s a vid of the current tank flow.

Link:
Current vid

 

[kevgib67]

Here’s a vid of the current tank flow.

Link:
Current vid

Flow looks good! Why don’t you get them off the sand and on to that awesome looking rock scape? Really nice scape!

 

[Johnic]

Flow looks good! Why don’t you get them off the sand and on to that awesome looking rock scape? Really nice scape!

Cool, I’ll leave the flow alone now. I also bumped up the lighting intensity from 60% to 70% over 30 days. I’ll measure my par today as well to confirm before it gets to 70%.
Ya, I’ve been nervous moving the hammer and torch in the rock work seeing they’re doing so well.
Thanks a lot about the rock work, it took me over a month hand gluing it last sept to get this.

Regarding the flow, I’m always concerned there’s enough flow so the sand doesn’t build up detris And dead spots

 

[Lavey29]

Thanks a lot. Just rebooted a 10 year old tank last sept. So this tank is little over a year now.
I just slowed down my mp40 to 1/3 the flow. About 4 light from the left side on feed crest/lagoon.

Light is measured with a new mq-510

You definitely want the hammer and goni lower with the sand torch higher. For me flow just slightly high. Sounds like you are around 33% intensity and mine is 25% intensity but each tank is unique and do what works best for you.

 

[Johnic]

You definitely want the hammer and goni lower with the sand torch higher. For me flow just slightly high. Sounds like you are around 33% intensity and mine is 25% intensity but each tank is unique and do what works best for you.

So your 3 lights max from the left side on the Vortech controller ? I’m 5 lights

 

[Johnic]

Current par mapping with lights at 62%

 

[Johnic]

You definitely want the hammer and goni lower with the sand torch higher. For me flow just slightly high. Sounds like you are around 33% intensity and mine is 25% intensity but each tank is unique and do what works best for you.

I flipped the torch and hammer. Torch is getting 190 par and the hammer is getting 100-120par

 

[Johnic]

I have a 75g with a mp40 and mp10 that are about 8 years old. My torch is nearly in front of the mp10 but i keep it on level 2

My mp40 is opposite side of the tank, approx 75% and in nutrient transport mode. Your lights and power heads are more than fine. I see coralline so the tank is established.

IMO your hammer and torch are reversed. Torches like medium to high flow and hammers like low to low/medium flow. Actually, I would argue that the torch is in a prime hammer spot, and the hammer is in a prime torch spot.

I flipped the two.

 

[VintageReefer]

This looks better, tank is looking great by the way. Good luck to you, give things a few days to adjust.