Feeding

StephanieRodriguez

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Question! I am feeding twice a day with a syringe and am trying to target feed some of my coral like my Duncan, and Goni. I also add a bit of phytoplankton every other day (small water bottle cap's worth). What are people's suggestion regarding feeding. I just want to make sure my LPS corals are getting enough food, but don't want to over do it.
 
Depends on the coral most will be fine by just broadcast feeding the tank. If fact pretty much all are fine just feeding the tank but some like torch corals and acans and such are cool to watch eat and they seem to grow a little faster.

Sounds like you are doing just fine on feeding. Depending on the size of the tank I would suggest adding phyto everyday but again every other day should be fine to
 
Feeding: the number one thing holding back coral growth in the reef tank, not some tedious param of calcium or alk. I think feeding and exchange is the most important thing we do



One of the neatest ways to see if you are feeding correctly is to know if you have upped your water changes to compensate. What goes out of the tank is what allows that which goes in, so you don't create a nutrient buildup and algae. The way you know if you are feeding decently, just enough to get by, grade C feeding, is if your corals are not receding and your nutrients like nitrate and phosphate are testing low and you aren't having to work a lot via export work to keep things in tune. Mostly the tank just stays with its coral mass as-is, not building nor losing much, algae pretty much under control due to starvation, 80% of the reefing hobby is set to that mode but it's not the only way just because the masses who want less work use it :)

Then there's A+ grade feeding where corals put on mass and it can be seen/counted monthly, need to be fragged eventually, are resistant to disease due to mass building (just like how exercising humans are healthier) all because the keeper is either changing water more often to allow for sustained A+feeding, keeping things busy vs stale, the algae is still under control in spite of boosted feeding because water is changed before the extra feed breaks down and/or feeding tactics are being employed to boost the effort


You are already using one tactic, spot feeding vs broadcast feeding, so for the interval of spot feeding the feed to polyp ratio is high.

And then it casts off into the tank as broadcast...something to be considered when seeking real efficiency.

so the next effort multiplier might be a clear plastic cup or any other creative capture. What if occasionally let's say you capped a hungry coral frag on the sandbed with a clear plastic cup, then injected the cup with your normal feed. Nothing extra added, but now dwell time to polyp is however long you leave the cup. That coral just got -fed- comparative to C feeding.

Then move around so each coral gets some engineering and you just took the same protein input and output unchanged but fattened corals with it. Combine that type of effort with increased water change mode before extra feeds break down, a tune of sustained harder work on the tank, and you have no limits to the coral that can be kept. Kill algae on the spot independent of nutrients-this keeps your tank algae free, search out different means for that mode. Algae never had to be left in a tank, it can be killed quite easily within 24 hours

The way you know how much to feed is to be able to count some new polyps monthly in corals, if none, it's C plus effort so far. Mine have to be chipped out with a screwdriver and yes my tanks are treated busily :)

Wanted you to see that there are modes of feeding to choose from. Also see if phyto is fed to Lps vs other feeds exclusively or if people are using other feeds too, have to search goni and duncan threads to see what people are feeding. Amplifying the right food is just as important
 
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but I counter that a little, its not that she'd be feeding too heavy, its that she'd be lax on export, we can never feed enough. Our hobby is used to food restriction on top of already restricting it, we think work can counter that trend and allow for great corals and no algae, even with more feeding than ever. the way you know if you are feeding correctly is if your export work has increased to allow for awesomeness in feeding.
 
What all those guys said. Balancing what you put in to what you can get out. it takes some experience but we all survived. I like to watch the glass sand and rocks. Youll notice an increase in green and browns on the glass and likely build up on the rocks. It means there's probably been too much in and not enough out.
 
but I counter that a little, its not that she'd be feeding too heavy, its that she'd be lax on export, we can never feed enough. Our hobby is used to food restriction on top of already restricting it, we think work can counter that trend and allow for great corals and no algae, even with more feeding than ever. the way you know if you are feeding correctly is if your export work has increased to allow for awesomeness in feeding.
True. However do you agree that it takes time to build up your export bacteria to handle heavy feedings? It's not something that happens over night or even over a month. And some like myself prefer to only do a 20% water change once a month to replace anything other than calcium. What other suggestions do you have to export better than a huge skimmer, more water changes and a big sump?
 
I wasn't considering using bacteria as export only water changes work increased, few will opt for that agreed. nearly the entire hobby will feed only the amount that corresponds with the lowest work load possible and see what corals will adapt to it. This is one reason people consider algae turf scrubber systems or plant systems...they do their exports via plant mass while allowing the feed to break down in-tank and lessen the actual water change work. since basic water changes are easy exports that work I like to recommend those as ideal

if you were carbon dosing to get increased bacteria for export via skimming that's just fine too, at least its a form up up-tuned export better than the norm. anyone who is already adding coral mass and counting new polyps monthly may not even need to increase, the current course is likely enough. using a concentrator method really helps and doesn't even increase the additions to the tank as well
 
also fair to be said

I own a 1 gallon reef so all this water change business is quite easy to prescribe :)
 
Question! I am feeding twice a day with a syringe and am trying to target feed some of my coral like my Duncan, and Goni. I also add a bit of phytoplankton every other day (small water bottle cap's worth). What are people's suggestion regarding feeding. I just want to make sure my LPS corals are getting enough food, but don't want to over do it.

Are what you feeding also for the fish? :)
 
I trained my fish to feed the corals.......... nothing better than some fresh fish poop from quality food I feed my fish.
This is very true, my growth has slowed since taking all my fish out for ich. They go back in 20 days, can't wait.
 
I have read about a ton of tanks that do not have to spot feed any, and get the measurable coral growth, off having just the right fish balance and associations. that's one ideal balance to shoot for
 
Question! I am feeding twice a day with a syringe and am trying to target feed some of my coral like my Duncan, and Goni. I also add a bit of phytoplankton every other day (small water bottle cap's worth). What are people's suggestion regarding feeding. I just want to make sure my LPS corals are getting enough food, but don't want to over do it.
I also have some Duncans and I stop for about 20 minutes the water motion and feed them using a turkey baster a mix of mysis and bloodworms to each, they close for this time and after they swallow, they open again and turn back the wave makers. That's what I do, hope it helps! :) Ah! Forgot to say they are happy and having babies!
 
Goniopora require extremely tiny foodstuffs. There's now a food developed specifically for them by Justin Credabel, who has experimented with feeding and keeping them for a long time. It's called Goniopower. You also want to squirt it upstream and let it flow down to the coral. Apparently shooting it at the goni directly only causes it to recoil, not feed.

There is also some indication that goniopora need manganese, so if that's in your salt mix, great. If not, you may need to supplement it (though you'd have to mail the water to Triton for testing. I know of no hobby-grade kits for manganese.)

Goniopower is fairly inexpensive online. Drsfostersmith.com or Amazon.com seem to be your best bets for discounted aquarium supplies.
 
Tons of tips out there. Turning off return pumps for at least 10 to 20 mins. Broadcast feed a small amount first and wait a few minutes. Then target feed. This gives the coral time to engage its feeding response. Placing a cup or container over the coral (best for ones on the sand bed) and then target feeding will give the coral the most bang for the buck.
 
Thank you for all of the tips! I greatly appreciate it. I increased a bit and my nitrates went up, so I did a 10% water change immediately today.
 
Yes that is usually a side effect of feeding more. The more you feed the more waste will be created. What do you have for filtration?
 
I have a IM 40 gallon. I also purchased the IM compartments that stores carbon and floss.
ImageUploadedByREEF2REEF1456881134.836435.jpg
 

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