Few plumbing questions

[Jakepen]

So I'll be plumbing my 180 soon, something I've never done. I want water changes to be simple, and would like to be able to turn a ball valve and have water redirected, for a water change. Suggestions and pictures would be greatly appreciated.

I'll be running a vectra L1, will I need a gate valve on my return line? Reason I ask is in case my L1 dies, I have a panworld for backup. I will plumb it bean animal style, so I already have one gate valve for my main return line, that's all I need right?

Just recently I did plumb my brutes, for mixing water. Enjoyable process, excited to try plumbing a tank. Oh also, how will I do it? Do I put most of the plumbing together, then attatch it to the tank when it is in place? Or plumb it all while the tank is already in its resting place?

 

[bif24701]

First use the largest PVC you can for the return line to reduce friction. I used 1 1/4" PVC and reduce my losses a good amount. Even if the bulkheads are smaller the larger PVC will still reduce the friction.

You don't need a valve on the return unless you need to reduce flow, hope not. Only other reason would be to have an line going to a drain for water changes however you can only remove the water in the sump return section, would not recommended. Most do not have any valve on the return.

Use a union at the pump, bulkheads, and before or after every bend. At least ensure that all plumbing can be taken apart without cutting anything. I used a lot of unions. If you use a valve beside to buy the Cepex or true union valves. They are better quality and turn easier, Cepex being the best. These valves have unions so it can replace a union.

What kind of over flow do you have? Have pics?

Do you have ideas for your drains to ensure safety, silent, and failsafes?

You could research Durso, Herbi, and Bean Animal overflow systems. Chose the one you like and we can start from there.

Let me know how's things are going.

 

[bif24701]

So I'll be plumbing my 180 soon, something I've never done. I want water changes to be simple, and would like to be able to turn a ball valve and have water redirected, for a water change. Suggestions and pictures would be greatly appreciated.

I'll be running a vectra L1, will I need a gate valve on my return line? Reason I ask is in case my L1 dies, I have a panworld for backup. I will plumb it bean animal style, so I already have one gate valve for my main return line, that's all I need right?

Just recently I did plumb my brutes, for mixing water. Enjoyable process, excited to try plumbing a tank. Oh also, how will I do it? Do I put most of the plumbing together, then attatch it to the tank when it is in place? Or plumb it all while the tank is already in its resting place?

Good work on the water change station , must have had some good help there!

 

[cilyjr]

Here's what I did for my 180. The tank is in wall and I have alot of room behind it so it might not be suitable for you.

1 inch up (mag 18 pump) which splits into two 1/2 lines. 1 goes to manifold then frag tank. The other to display. The display line has a t which the back end has a barb that goes to the laundry drain(not pictured).

 

[Jakepen]

First use the largest PVC you can for the return line to reduce friction. I used 1 1/4" PVC and reduce my losses a good amount. Even if the bulkheads are smaller the larger PVC will still reduce the friction.

You don't need a valve on the return unless you need to reduce flow, hope not. Only other reason would be to have an line going to a drain for water changes however you can only remove the water in the sump return section, would not recommended. Most do not have any valve on the return.

Use a union at the pump, bulkheads, and before or after every bend. At least ensure that all plumbing can be taken apart without cutting anything. I used a lot of unions. If you use a valve beside to buy the Cepex or true union valves. They are better quality and turn easier, Cepex being the best. These valves have unions so it can replace a union.

What kind of over flow do you have? Have pics?

Do you have ideas for your drains to ensure safety, silent, and failsafes?

You could research Durso, Herbi, and Bean Animal overflow systems. Chose the one you like and we can start from there.

Let me know how's things are going.

I've heard so many mixed opinions, between using 1" or 1 1/4" even 1.5" for my return. Going from 1-1 1/4" make a pretty big difference? All I want is to be able to move 1,000 gph (5x turnover rate).

I was thinking valve on the return to dial down flow, if I need to. I have a marine modular 24" overflow capable of "2400 gph" which could probably handle what that panworld 250 could throw at it, I just don't know if it would be to much flow thru the sump than.

As for a valve on the line, I was thinking a tee right off the return line with a barbed adapter, then a cepex after to redirect the flow out the tee. If not that, then what's an efficient way to change 60 gallons in a timely manner?

Definitely want to run bean animal, no not sure yet how to plumb to ensure no failures...

 

[bif24701]

If you use a head loss calculator you would see what the difference between 1 1/4" and 1.5" PVC is. If you plan to dial down your pump, and the pump size 1 1/4" will do.

I would research well on plumbing a Bean Animal. You will need at least one good gate valve there.