Filter sock?
- Thread starter Trickdout69
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Damon
Well-Known Member
Is that coming from the tank? If so, the valve for flow control would go in the other line.
You shouldn't valve your return(into the sump) unless your running say, reactors off the tee. But not the main line going into the sump, except to shut it down for maintenance.
From Note 2 on Tap 4
Damon
Well-Known Member
If that's the case, the valve it's in the wrong place. The valve needs to be after the tee. That will then control what goes to each side. The way it's set now, that is slowing the "overall" flow into your sump. You don't want to do that because normally, that would cause your tank level to rise, resulting in a possible overflow situation.
The valving I am talking about would be from the actual output of the pump. This would then slow down the output of the pump, which will in turn slow down the flow of the returns, making the need for adjusting the flows of the output only to determine where you want the most water to go in your sump.
And you do have room on the side you took the picture to add a filter sock holder. I have the CPR "sock it" holders. They clamp to the sump/tank walls with thumb screws.
From Note 2 on Tap 4
Trickdout69
Active Member
The reason I put the valve is cause the other over flow is in the other end of the tank and one side flowed so much faster then the other. I have a valve on both sides as well as both sides of the pump output
Damon
Well-Known Member
If you can, can you take more pictures? I'm not quite understanding what you mean. Explaining what you did with each picture?
My pump is "technically" too strong. I took my return line(from the pump) and placed a tee on it. From there,I run my reactor for gfo, and I have two fitting ends(all three of them valved for adjustability) that I can run line from if I wished to two other reactors. Running it this way, with head height, I don't have a problem. My overflow is a single pipe which runs to my filter sock via a union for easy removal and sock change. I have a ball valve from the bulkhead, for maintenance on both return and overflow. But I have a single return output.
If I understand what your saying though, you would need to put the valve on the "fast" overflow line "before" your bulkhead to control the flow equalization. Our do you have two lines(bulkhead) for overflow? The only thing you should technically have to adjust its your overflow equalization as long as your piping is the correct size. That is, technically all things being equal.
What pump do you have? Brand and model?
From Note 2 on Tap 4
Trickdout69
Active Member
I can put up more pics later. But I have a dual over flow setup. I have the pump to a tee then out to the returns then the overflows each go to a valve the to a tee to the sump. The pump I have is a Laguna 2900gph
Damon
Well-Known Member
Ok dude, what have you got going on with that stuff? What it's exactly what?
I would run the overflows to "one side" of the sump, the one with your skimmer. Only "one tube per each overflow" and filter sock. If you want to valve them for maintenance, that is the only time I wouldn't run them wide open! Then,I would run the return from the opposite end of the sump.
I would put two filter sock mechanisms (on the one side) in there and let it flow to the other side. If it were me, I'd still do the floss blocks in the bubble trap "coming from that side" simply because you've got a lot of flow. Then, just let it run it's course and you shouldn't have any bubbles, but the sock "has to be higher than 2 inches off the water surface".
All that's doing now, is the water is coming down and the flow hitting the sump water, splashing and flowing right over the sides.
For the return nozzles, run "one" line to a tee. After that tee, place your valves for flow equalization or preference.
That's it, you have to think about how this stuff works, especially when it comes to valving and filter mechanisms.
You may have to mess with the depths of the tubes of the output, but it really shouldn't have to go far below the water surface in the socks.
From Note 2 on Tap 4
I would run the overflows to "one side" of the sump, the one with your skimmer. Only "one tube per each overflow" and filter sock. If you want to valve them for maintenance, that is the only time I wouldn't run them wide open! Then,I would run the return from the opposite end of the sump.
I would put two filter sock mechanisms (on the one side) in there and let it flow to the other side. If it were me, I'd still do the floss blocks in the bubble trap "coming from that side" simply because you've got a lot of flow. Then, just let it run it's course and you shouldn't have any bubbles, but the sock "has to be higher than 2 inches off the water surface".
All that's doing now, is the water is coming down and the flow hitting the sump water, splashing and flowing right over the sides.
For the return nozzles, run "one" line to a tee. After that tee, place your valves for flow equalization or preference.
That's it, you have to think about how this stuff works, especially when it comes to valving and filter mechanisms.
You may have to mess with the depths of the tubes of the output, but it really shouldn't have to go far below the water surface in the socks.
From Note 2 on Tap 4
Damon
Well-Known Member
