finally did an ATI ICP test...sps STN.

Scorchx1245

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So i can grow everything but acros.... idk why but i cant... they always seem to STN. So i thought i would get a ICP test done and im still at a loss...

Tank is a 40 gallon breeder, running a 36" T5 hybrid with 2 XR-15's gen 3 pros, 3 blue + and one actinic, skimmer, dosing nopox, and run kalk in my ato. Skimmer etc. 10 gallon sump Ceramic media (n03 brightwell brick.)

My test kits have been showing 15 nitrates (salifert), 7.5 alk (salifert), 400 calc (Red Sea), 1300 mag (red sea) and 0.0 p04 (red sea) ive been dosing P04 for the past month and colors are better but still my green slimer colony after 5 months decided to start STNing. So maybe you guys can help interpret these results, i did notice salinity was low but my refractometer using calibration fluid 35ppt is on...also p04 low and iodine low. salt is IO reef crystals but gonna be switching to tropic marin slowly.
 

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You parameter looks fine but could you also post the track record of Alk and Cal? Stability is more important than parameters themselves.
 
did the ICP test find anything out of the ordinary?
I'd say check your tank and equipment for rust.

Also IO Reef Crystals mixes at pretty high Alk so make sure you're not causing Alk spikes when you're doing water changes.
 
I test every Saturday, I hover around 7.3 to 7.9. I thought my alk was to high so i diluted the kalk a little. And brought it down to the 7.5 area slowly. I keep a hand written log by the tank I can take a photo of.
 
Best way to lower tin? I do 5 gallon w/c every week.

Maybe double up on the water change frequency for a few weeks, I've seen others report success with Cuprisorb.
If its not a new tank then you need to try find the source,A lot of times with tin something rusting can be found. Running any Vortech's for flow? the wetside cracking & letting water in those has been a common source before. I'd also grab a new bottle of 35ppt solution,i haven't found those ati salinity results to be wrong before.
Did you do a RODI test also - the rodi was clear of tin?

aluminum is up there also

probably from the Brightwell brick but that source of aluminium i don't believe causes any trouble, i think its probably a mix of low salinity & maybe also the tin
 
probably from the Brightwell brick but that source of aluminium i don't believe causes any trouble, i think its probably a mix of low salinity & maybe also the tin
Im fighting Sn in my tank as we speak lost alot, Im racing to get my other tank running, there are no visible signs of the source.
BTW I have been running Marine-Pur for almost 3 years, Done 3 ICP tests never had elevated alum. levels.
 
I dont think the tin or aluminum levels are anything to be concerned about however, a lot of your major elements are on the low side and that also indicates that the salinity is likely low. If you plug those numbers in a salinity calculator, it comes out to 31.82 which confirms the low salinity. I'm not sure what is up with the reference levels but they certainly aren't what I'd consider ideal.

You can use Randy's home made salinity standard to double check your refractometer before changing anything else.

Last thought, why are you using NOPOX if you have 0 phosphates (ICP results indicate low vice zero)? Were your levels considerably higher prior to carbon dosing?
 

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I wouldn't consider your alk low. a lot of people run in the 8-9 range myself included. why are you dosing nopox if your phosphate is 0. If your dosing nopox and also dosing phosphate your not really doing anything for the phosphate. some have said do more water changes. that would take place of the nopox in my opinion to keep your nitrates low and let your phosphates raise a little bit
 
Nopox is much more effective on nitrates than phos. If you discontinue the Nopox watch your nitrates levels as they may rise a lot faster than the phos. You may want to try a Hanna checker for phos using the ULR phosphorus model As it will much more clearly give you the information. I doubt you are really at zero.

Agree with check your lighting.
 
I would worry about that salinity more than anything else. You paid for an ICP test, and all of the numbers seem to agree with your tests except the salinity, yet you say the ICP test must be wrong because you use calibration fluid with your refractometer. A salinity of less than 32 ppt is pretty low when you are shooting for 35 ppt.
 
So i can grow everything but acros.... idk why but i cant... they always seem to STN. So i thought i would get a ICP test done and im still at a loss...

Tank is a 40 gallon breeder, running a 36" T5 hybrid with 2 XR-15's gen 3 pros, 3 blue + and one actinic, skimmer, dosing nopox, and run kalk in my ato. Skimmer etc. 10 gallon sump Ceramic media (n03 brightwell brick.)

My test kits have been showing 15 nitrates (salifert), 7.5 alk (salifert), 400 calc (Red Sea), 1300 mag (red sea) and 0.0 p04 (red sea) ive been dosing P04 for the past month and colors are better but still my green slimer colony after 5 months decided to start STNing. So maybe you guys can help interpret these results, i did notice salinity was low but my refractometer using calibration fluid 35ppt is on...also p04 low and iodine low. salt is IO reef crystals but gonna be switching to tropic marin slowly.
First off STN can be maddening and you will get a lot of good comments of things to rule out. That's about all you can do is try to rule things out. Here are a couple:
1. How is your RODI water quality? Have you measured it with a handheld TDS meter and do you change your filters regularly?

2. I would recheck your refractometer with someone that has a thriving tank. This is likely not the problem but I've seen a lot of variability with brand new calibration fluid bottles. I've seen brand new bottles be completely off which is frustrating.

3. How old is your tank?

4. You're dosing PO4 and running NOPOX with ceramic media. You may be hitting the red line here. Sometimes you can drive the bacteria too hard especially in a new tank. If it were me I would probably ditch the media and all dosing. You're smart keeping Alkalinity low during all of this.

Keep in mind that if you change anything (especially #4!) your acros won't respond overnight and they will hold a grudge.
 
Things that jumped out to me are your SG is low and tin and aluminum are pretty high. The bio bricks and po4 remover like Phos Guard and Phosphate Sponge habe been known to leach aluminum.
 
Stressors such as water contaminants, temperature, light intensity can weaken healthy corals. As well as coral pests.

@Scorchx1245, what is your temperature?

Do you dip your corals?

I would discontinue the NoPox and consider removing the ceramic brick.
 
So I've never been able to keep my nitrates down they've always been 30 40 +. So I started carbon dosing. P04 was around .25-.5 range. So I started carbon dosing to get them down. I was able to get down to my current levels but nitrate still hung in the 20-25 range and 0.05 to 0.1 range. So I added the bio brick 2 months ago. Now this is all still while doing waterchanges. And I'm not saying the icp is wrong I'm saying maybe my calibration fluid could be bad. I dont remember who said that but ok?. But if I stop the carbon dosing do I keep the brick? Temps stay around 78-79. Tank is almost a year old (11 months)
 
I would worry about that salinity more than anything else. You paid for an ICP test, and all of the numbers seem to agree with your tests except the salinity, yet you say the ICP test must be wrong because you use calibration fluid with your refractometer. A salinity of less than 32 ppt is pretty low when you are shooting for 35 ppt.
Where did I say icp is wrong? All I stated was I calibrated my refractometer with calibration solution. So you instantly assume I think there testing is wrong? When I never did state such. And to further update my calibration solution expired in 2016 shame on me.
 
Have you checked par and how long are your lights on?

So before I added the t5s I say around 300 around my acros at 85% running ab+ I turned them down to 65% with the t5 hybrid fixture but I bought the hybrid fixture after the STNing. I have one acro that is growing fast and my poci, and stylo are doingbyreat along with the montis

Ps everything STN from the base up.
 
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