Finding that Elusive MATTE finish

[Merv Himself]

I've researched the far corners of the internet, but can't find any definitive answers regarding clear MATTE finishes that can be sprayed or painted onto aquarium decor. There is always talk about "Krylon Fusion", HOWEVER there is no such thing as "Krylon Fusion Clear Matte Finish". There is Krylon Polyurethane, Krylon UV Resistant Clear, but no Krylon FUSION Clear Matte Finish.

I need something to act as a sealer, not just a paint. So ... I know, I know ... before somebody says it, let me just say "No thank you to Clear 2-part marine resins. Because they all seem to be glossy and I don't want my final product to look shiny in any way. I am really looking for the elusive matte finish.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[reefwiser]

https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/specialty/matte-finish/
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-2...ocphy=9014249&hvtargid=pla-349434764819&psc=1

 

[jd371]

A search on the Krylon website for clear matte finish results in three products. Maybe one of these will work for you. It seems Fusion doesn't come in clear.
http://www.krylon.com/products/?N=924424835+0+105535595&paging=false

 

[Merv Himself]

Thank you very much for the suggestions and for taking the time to reply. But I am looking for a proven recommendation that is known to be underwater-safe as well as fish safe. Admittedly, I do not know very much about paint chemistry, etc, and that is why I am seeking definitive answers from those who have done this in the past. Bear in mind, I need a "sealer" as opposed to a paint. Something that will protect what's underneath it.

It is a large stump made from foam, coated by hyrdaulic cement, and with several top coats of tinted drylok. After weeks of curing, hairline cracks continue to appear in the same location, even though I have re-coated it multiple times. A small scale submersion test I did shows that once water penetrates through small cracks, the thin layer on concete underneath begins to crack. Quite frankly, I now know I should have skipped the concrete stage completely and jumped straight to drylok which is more flexible and therefore more durable. Anyway, now that I've created this masterpiece for my neighbor I want to preserve it as best as possible.

 

[Sorcha2]

It sucks to apply it but a thin layer of aquarium silicone is your best bet. It's what all the people who do fake 3d backgrounds use.

 

[Merv Himself]

It sucks to apply it but a thin layer of aquarium silicone is your best bet. It's what all the people who do fake 3d backgrounds use.

Thanks, Sorcha2. But how in the world would I apply that? And won't it look really cloudy?

 

[chris85]

Look at potable water tank coats you may be able to find something in there. You could also just give it a rough sand to take the sheen off.

 

[Merv Himself]

Thank you to everyone for your input.
My ultimate goal is to find someone who has done this before and who can talk about the best solution from personal experience.

 

[jd371]

The guys on the show Tanked brush some type of sealant on the fake corals they make. Maybe send them an email to find out what they use.

 

[reefwiser]

https://www.smooth-on.com/applications/aquarium-decoration/

 

[Merv Himself]

https://www.smooth-on.com/applications/aquarium-decoration/

Thanks Reewiser. Have you used smooth-on for this kind of application before?

 

[reefwiser]

I have several friends use this product in their Aqurium service accounts. They use it for decorations.

 

[Squeaky McMurdo]

Polyurethane is inert once it cures. It does however yellow over time when exposed to UV rays which is what would happen in a tank. I don’t think that would matter or look bad over your stump though.

 

[Sorcha2]

Thanks, Sorcha2. But how in the world would I apply that? And won't it look really cloudy?

You have to brush it on. Kinda squeeze it out of the tube and brush it on paying special attention to cracks. It's pretty clear once on but not glossy. It takes awhile to do though.

 

[Merv Himself]

Polyurethane is inert once it cures. It does however yellow over time when exposed to UV rays which is what would happen in a tank. I don’t think that would matter or look bad over your stump though.

You have to brush it on. Kinda squeeze it out of the tube and brush it on paying special attention to cracks. It's pretty clear once on but not glossy. It takes awhile to do though.

Special thanks to Sorcha and Squeaky. I really appreciate your suggestions and there are things I like about both of these methods. I am quoting you both because I would now like to find as much imperical evidence as possible to support each method. Hope you both will join me in doing a thorough analysis. (Please understand, I am not questioning you and very much appreciate your help. Just trying to be as scientific as possible. )

MOST PLAUSIBLE METHODS (PROS & CONS)

1) POLYURETHANE METHOD. I really like the convenience of this method. Love that it's inert once cured. Plus, the ability to simply brush on a matte finish polyurethane would be great. My only concern about this comes from a series of videos I found where someone used minwax polyurethane. It started flaking and cracking after being submerged for 3 months. Squeaky, I hope you'll chime in on this and give us your thoughts. --->.
2) SILICONE. In my mind, silicone has been proven to be tank safe and waterproof for years. Obviously, the downside to this is the pain of applying something that's so thick. However, I have heard that you can thin silicone with acetone to make application easier. Does anyone have thoughts on this?

Many thanks to everyone for helping me find a solution to this elusive matte finish once and for all.

-Merv Himself

 

[Squeaky McMurdo]

I suspect that the coats of poly were too thick and possibly not completely dry inside before additional coats were applied. This is a very common problem because you would think the thicker the better, right?

The trick is to apply it in thin layers and take your time letting it dry.

 

[Merv Himself]

I suspect that the coats of poly were too thick and possibly not completely dry inside before additional coats were applied. This is a very common problem because you would think the thicker the better, right?

The trick is to apply it in thin layers and take your time letting it dry.

I guess that's possible. I watched some of his other videos and he said he let it cure for a week. However, I was also thinking that maybe the rocks he coated were releasing something. Also, maybe a different brand of polyU would be better?