First cycle?

Akreefnewguy

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Obviously I'm a newbie, so I believe this is a typical question with a typical answer. So my 10 gal nano life rock from established store aquarium, 5lbs life sand a pinch of clown fish flake food . Using fluval cycle bacteria starter. Ammonia spiked within the first 5 days to off the charts, nitrite showed and spiked 3 days later, day 14 Ammonia back to 0 , nitrite still off the charts , nitrate is also top of the chart. Copepods all over the place glass really clean lol, diatomaceous on sand some rocks, turned off lights for last 3 days to not get to big of algae bloom. So the ? Are my levels to high I believe I shouldn't do any water changes until nitrite hits zero. But I hear of a stall when levels are to high. Am I looking at a stall? Of just time for levels to drop being bacteria will grow at different rates. Don't want to jump the gun.
 
Welcome!! Your lights don't need to be on for your cycle, and sometimes it takes a little longer for levels to drop, you just have to continue to be patient. Once nitrites start dropping your nitrates will rise and begin to drop. It usually seemed to take me around a month for everything to spike and drop.

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Welcome and thanks for joining and gosh, you seem to have been staying on top of the science and headed in the right direction
Water changes in a small tank, in my experience, are never a bad idea, regardless of the stage of the cycle. I would do several small ones and flow along -also get a second "opinion" with either. different test kit or LFS reading

remember slow and steady wins the reef race

Good luck

giphy-downsized-large.gif
 
Obviously I'm a newbie, so I believe this is a typical question with a typical answer. So my 10 gal nano life rock from established store aquarium, 5lbs life sand a pinch of clown fish flake food . Using fluval cycle bacteria starter. Ammonia spiked within the first 5 days to off the charts, nitrite showed and spiked 3 days later, day 14 Ammonia back to 0 , nitrite still off the charts , nitrate is also top of the chart. Copepods all over the place glass really clean lol, diatomaceous on sand some rocks, turned off lights for last 3 days to not get to big of algae bloom. So the ? Are my levels to high I believe I shouldn't do any water changes until nitrite hits zero. But I hear of a stall when levels are to high. Am I looking at a stall? Of just time for levels to drop being bacteria will grow at different rates. Don't want to jump the gun.
Generally when your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate. In lieu of fish food, ammonia chloride is more effective in raising numbers but what youve done is adequate. Lights and heater can be on although no advantage to light until livestock have been added.
 
Greetings, and welcome to the reef! Keep your lights on a normal photo cycle during this time. Nitrite will come down and trates will rise over the next 4-6 weeks depending. Then you'll be G2G.
 
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Welcome and thanks for joining and gosh, you seem to have been staying on top of the science and headed in the right direction
Water changes in a small tank, in my experience, are never a bad idea, regardless of the stage of the cycle. I would do several small ones and flow along -also get a second "opinion" with either. different test kit or LFS reading

remember slow and steady wins the reef race

Good luck

giphy-downsized-large.gif
Ty, I was planning on a 5 to 10% water change by next week but didn't want to take out beneficial bacteria to soon. I figured I was just in the time game but wasn't sure do to nitrite and nitrate being so high already. Obviously trying to do my research, however so many new people put their opinions or stories and the rest are very experienced and hit lightly on this subject besides time and patience.
 
Welcome and thanks for joining and gosh, you seem to have been staying on top of the science and headed in the right direction
Water changes in a small tank, in my experience, are never a bad idea, regardless of the stage of the cycle. I would do several small ones and flow along -also get a second "opinion" with either. different test kit or LFS reading

remember slow and steady wins the reef race

Good luck

giphy-downsized-large.gif
On to my next question and dilemma, lol sooo.. I live in the middle of Alaska, what or who might be best for me to research for delivery of coral in a few months, keeping it begginer softies zoa rock leather or two etc. I do plan on upgrading down the road ive had high interest in this for decades and finally am financially stable enough to give it a go. I ordered the full Hannah digital test kit so I can be precise.
 
On to my next question and dilemma, lol sooo.. I live in the middle of Alaska, what or who might be best for me to research for delivery of coral in a few months, keeping it begginer softies zoa rock leather or two etc. I do plan on upgrading down the road ive had high interest in this for decades and finally am financially stable enough to give it a go. I ordered the full Hannah digital test kit so I can be precise.
Best is to go to the sponsor section of R2R forums and feel out which ones will and wont ship to Alaska
 
Generally when your ammonia is steady at zero for 5 days and Nitrate is steady at 20 or below- You are cycled. Ignore nitrIte Unless sky high
The tank will go through two phases in which ammonia will rise then fall and nitrate will rise and fall which is normal. When fish are added, the bacteria population will increase with the new bio load, converting waste to nitrate. In lieu of fish food, ammonia chloride is more effective in raising numbers but what youve done is adequate. Lights and heater can be on although no advantage to light until livestock have been added.
Ty very much, light where minimal, what can I say I was staring at the rocks lol. Plus I didn't mind seeing something happen and figured maybe some food for a clean up crew when the tank is ready. I'm being patient, just confused most people did t seem to have the readings I have for about 2 to 3 weeks. Only reason I asked otherwise I'm happy watching each stage of growth for the economy system , each faze is a new science experiment and learning experience. I just dont have any friend in the hobby here.
 
On to my next question and dilemma, lol sooo.. I live in the middle of Alaska, what or who might be best for me to research for delivery of coral in a few months, keeping it begginer softies zoa rock leather or two etc. I do plan on upgrading down the road ive had high interest in this for decades and finally am financially stable enough to give it a go. I ordered the full Hannah digital test kit so I can be precise.
@907_Reefer is from Alaska, too. He may have some input.
 
Ty very much, light where minimal, what can I say I was staring at the rocks lol. Plus I didn't mind seeing something happen and figured maybe some food for a clean up crew when the tank is ready. I'm being patient, just confused most people did t seem to have the readings I have for about 2 to 3 weeks. Only reason I asked otherwise I'm happy watching each stage of growth for the economy system , each faze is a new science experiment and learning experience. I just dont have any friend in the hobby here.
Fallow up ? So in about a week if ammonia is still holding at 0 nitrate is 20 or below, you believe I have a cycled tank, then suggest a good water change to lower nitrite if still at 5 ppm ? Or just wait longer ?
 
Ty, I was planning on a 5 to 10% water change by next week but didn't want to take out beneficial bacteria to soon. I figured I was just in the time game but wasn't sure do to nitrite and nitrate being so high already. Obviously trying to do my research, however so many new people put their opinions or stories and the rest are very experienced and hit lightly on this subject besides time and patience.
Water changes do not remove nitrifying bacteria in any significant amount.
 
Fallow up ? So in about a week if ammonia is still holding at 0 nitrate is 20 or below, you believe I have a cycled tank, then suggest a good water change to lower nitrite if still at 5 ppm ? Or just wait longer ?
That would put my ammonia at 0 for around a week and a half need to check logs
 
Welcome and thanks for joining and gosh, you seem to have been staying on top of the science and headed in the right direction
Water changes in a small tank, in my experience, are never a bad idea, regardless of the stage of the cycle. I would do several small ones and flow along -also get a second "opinion" with either. different test kit or LFS reading

remember slow and steady wins the reef race

Good luck

giphy-downsized-large.gif
Hannah full digital kit should be here in a few more days then I will be accurate.
 
Fallow up ? So in about a week if ammonia is still holding at 0 nitrate is 20 or below, you believe I have a cycled tank, then suggest a good water change to lower nitrite if still at 5 ppm ? Or just wait longer ?
Your nitrates will not drop without a water change (in this case). However, high nitrITES can cause a false high nitrATE reading, so once your biological filter is efficiently processing nitrite to nitrate you should see 0 nitrite and a true nitrate level. This may be 5, it may be 50. A water change is recommended at this point and the size of the WC can depend on the amount you want to lower your nitrates.

But... since nitrites don't harm saltwater fish the way they do freshwater fish, most experienced reefers don't even test for nitrites. If you add an ammonia source (fish food, etc) and in 24 hours you have no ammonia (and some nitrates, which you already have), then the tank has a biological filter that can safely process a small bioload.

Add livestock slowly in order for the biological filter to catch up to the new bioload...
 

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