first go at QT, plan sound?

[Burrito]

so after reading and rereading many of the threads here, thanks @Humblefish for the many articles and post on this topic, i have 2 wrasses coming tomorrow from divers den.

Royal Flasher and Melanurus wrasse.

my setup (in another room 10'+ away) is a 20g long tank, aquaclear 70 HOB with 6 marinepure balls which were seeded from the sump in my display and a sponge, heater, eggcrate, ato, basic light and a small powerhead as well.

i have a bowl of sand for the melanurus and a few pvc pipes in there and nothing else.

meds on hand are
cupramine and seachem copper test kit
paraguard
prazipro
seacheme focus, metroplex and kanaplex


my plan is to get them in the QT tank and let them hang out for 2-3 days and start eating which hopefully since they are from diversden will eat the food i give them (same foods diversden feed),

then 1 round of prazipro, 4 days observation, another round of prazipro, and then just observe the remaining time until the 6 week mark at which they would move to the DT.

my understanding is copper is a touchy treatment with wrasses so i'm best to only use it if needed.

is this a solid plan for my first attempt at real QT

 

[Big G]

Chelated copper like Copper Power is a bit easier on wrasses than ionic copper like Cupramine. The key is to slowly 5-8 days raising up to therapeutic level. Keep an eye on the wrasses. If they stop eating and or begin to swim a bit off, the copper level is too much for them.

 

[HotRocks]

I personally would not QT wrasses without copper. They can carry parasites without outward symptoms. Then infect your DT upon transfer. They have a very thick mucus coat.

Using the Hanna checker and copper power combo treating at 1.75ppm I have experienced almost zero problems due to copper with +/- 15 wrasses.

 

[Burrito]

Ordered COpper power and test kits. Should be here tomorrow.

How should I proceed then as far as order of meds and timing fornwrasses

 

[Big G]

Here's my treatment plan used for all incoming new fish:Hope this helps a bit. Works for me but of course, your mileage may vary.

Prophylactic Treatment: No observed symptoms of disease or injury

20 gal QT cycled:
- HOB with both the foam pad & BioMax treated with Bio Spira/Dr Tims, and foam bubble filter with foam soaked in the same, or all of them soaked for at least 2 weeks in DT sump.
- heater, powerhead, Seachem Ammonia Alert Badge.
- Tank lights off. Ambient room lighting only.
- Feed fish with white/black worms, and or vitamin & fiber packed frozen food with Selcon/Zoecon for at least 3 days
- Freshwater dip to check for flukes. If no flukes treat first with copper.
- S-l-o-w-l-y (8-10 days) bring up copper to therapeutic levels for prophylactic treatment for 30 days: Tank lights off until therapeutic level is reached. Best to dose several times a day (AM, lunch, PM) rather than one large dose. Highly recommend use of Copper Power and a Hanna HL Copper Checker.
- Carbon & Cuprisorb to remove copper. Water changes. Observe.
- General Cure 2 doses 5-7 days apart. Turn up bubbler and turn on powerhead aimed at surface to increase O2. Like GC over Prazipro. GC has Metro + Praziquantel, so you are getting the Praziquantel which kills flukes and "some" internal parasites and Metro that kills all internal parasites/worms. And the dose of Praziquantel is lower but does the job and is easier on sensitive fish.
- Carbon & water changes.
- Observe 10-14 days.

 

[dwest]

I personally would not QT wrasses without copper. They can carry parasites without outward symptoms. Then infect your DT upon transfer. They have a very thick mucus coat.

Using the Hanna checker and copper power combo treating at 1.75ppm I have experienced almost zero problems due to copper with +/- 15 wrasses.

@HotRocks you do full 30 days in copper vs 10 days then transfer, correct?

 

[HotRocks]

@HotRocks you do full 30 days in copper vs 10 days then transfer, correct?

I have recently started transferring after 14 days. Now that I have enough tanks set up to do so.

Also with Wrasse, very important to start them out on food with GC/focus or metro/focus.

I have also limited my total exposure to copper now down to about 17 days. I am acclimating fish directly into 1.0ppm copper the day of arrival. Then immediately ramping up to 1.75ppm over three days. Since starting this method, I have lost 3 fish. All within first 48hrs of arrival. This is even working well on leopard Wrasse.

@Humblefish played a big part in my switching of the way I'm doing things after several bouts of gram negative bacterial issues. So I am attempting to limit the exposure to copper because it drags the immune system down heavily and fish are very prone to infection. Also doing at least an initial dose of spectrogram upon reaching therapuetic copper. If I don't see any signs of infection I don't continue any antibiotics past the initial dose. I have one tank that has an Achilles with a gram positive infection, and I have been using Sulfaplex and spectrogram throughout the copper treatment with no issues. There is also a yellow belly blue hippo, gem tang, lineatus, labouti, regal angel, etc in same tank and they are all tolerating the treatment.

 

[Burrito]

Just got them into the Qt tank. Both played dead I guess while in the first bucket to acclimate and are kinda swimming and kinda laying around. I just noticed this. Video uploading

 

[Burrito]

 

[HotRocks]

Just got them into the Qt tank. Both played dead I guess while in the first bucket to acclimate and are kinda swimming and kinda laying around. I just noticed this. Video uploading

Wrasse look dead 50% of the time. IME

 

[Burrito]

Wrasse look dead 50% of the time. IME

Mine looks dead or a general statement. New to wrasses so just clarifying.

 

[HotRocks]

It is was a general statement about Wrasse when shipped/acclimation process.

In regards to my comment yesterday about starting metro/focus or GC/focus soaked foods immediately. That white stringy poop on the melanarus is definitely internal parasites and or worms which is common in newly arriving Wrasse.

The fact that it's on it's side, it may not eat. Definitely going to be a challenge.

 

[Burrito]

So I get the playing dead but I think the one might be very close...

The wrasse IS aliveness I’m this video but has basically been just floating around where the current takes him for the last 2 hours. Breathing is very slow...

the flasher by comparison is breathing rapidly.

 

[HotRocks]

So I get the playing dead but I think the one might be very close...

The wrasse IS aliveness I’m this video but has basically been just floating around where the current takes him for the last 2 hours. Breathing is very slow...

the flasher by comparison is breathing rapidly.

Video of the flasher?

I'd be surprised if that melanarus perks up. Doesn't look good.

 

[Burrito]

The melanarus is dead. Literally died like 2 minutes After the video. Some flukes were present in the tank after he died too.

I’ll get a video of the flasher in a bit

 

[HotRocks]

The melanarus is dead. Literally died like 2 minutes After the video. Some flukes were present in the tank after he died too.

I’ll get a video of the flasher in a bit

Sorry to hear that. I could tell it was coming.

 

[Billldg]

@HotRocks , like you, I recently purchase another QT tank and now have enough to tank transfer if needed, so my question is how DO you QT a wrasse, I will be receiving a Pink Streaked Wrasse in my next fish shipment, is this a hardy wrasse or do I need to do something special, I recently switched to cupramine from cuprion as I heard it was easier on fish, but is copper power even more so, having good luck, knock on wood, so far this time around with my fish in QT, 2 weeks more and then I will feed with GC/focus after as I didn't have it before when I did prazi, So do I need to get copper power for the wrasse as I do want it to get thru QT and transfer it after 14 days at therapeutic levels , also, what do you feed a wrasse in QT as copepods will be killed by the copper?

And is this the copper power you all are talking about?

 

[HotRocks]

@HotRocks , like you, I recently purchase another QT tank and now have enough to tank transfer if needed, so my question is how DO you QT a wrasse, I will be receiving a Pink Streaked Wrasse in my next fish shipment, is this a hardy wrasse or do I need to do something special, I recently switched to cupramine from cuprion as I heard it was easier on fish, but is copper power even more so, having good luck, knock on wood, so far this time around with my fish in QT, 2 weeks more and then I will feed with GC/focus after as I didn't have it before when I did prazi, So do I need to get copper power for the wrasse as I do want it to get thru QT and transfer it after 14 days at therapeutic levels , also, what do you feed a wrasse in QT as copepods will be killed by the copper?

And is this the copper power you all are talking about?

Yes copper power blue is what you want. Wrasse do great in it.

I have been predosing QT to 1.0ppm

Match salinity and float bags to temp match.

Ramp up copper power .25ppm for next 3 days.

Start GC soaked food on day 1, especially with wrasse intestinal parasites and worms are common.

14 days at therapuetic copper then transfer to sterile QT and start Praziquantel using GC or Prazipro.

 

[Billldg]

Yes copper power blue is what you want. Wrasse do great in it.

I have been predosing QT to 1.0ppm

Match salinity and float bags to temp match.

Ramp up copper power .25ppm for next 3 days.

Start GC soaked food on day 1, especially with wrasse intestinal parasites and worms are common.

14 days at therapuetic copper then transfer to sterile QT and start Praziquantel using GC or Prazipro.

How many days of GC soaked food do u do?

 

[HotRocks]

How many days of GC soaked food do u do?

Full 14 days. As long as no signs of white stringy poop. I have had to go 21 days only once.