First pipe to bulkhead installation, how am I supposed to get leverage?

[BigJohnny]

I am about to plumb my first reef ready tank and I am very concerned about installing the first pipe into each bulkhead. It takes a lot of leverage to shove/twist the pvc into fittings and I don't know how I am supposed to be able to get that leverage without simply pushing straight up into the bulkhead which would put tremendous force on the glass. My plan is to glue most of the other plumbing first so that I only need to glue 1 piece while linked up to the bulkhead. These are slip x thread bulkheads BTW with slip on the dry side.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Cement first, then install.

 

[stevo01]

You should install a section of pipe into the bulkhead before installling the bulkhead.

 

[BigJohnny]

Cement first, then install.

Cool troll, thanks for your help man. Go hide under a bridge.

 

[BigJohnny]

You should install a section of pipe into the bulkhead before installling the bulkhead.

Well I wanted to put a union right below so the piece of pipe would be very small, but it will def help some. Thanks

I'm still worried I'm going to break the glass. Would it be better to install when the bulkhead is loose maybe?

 

[BigJohnny]

So this all may sound absurd to some people but I'm 6'4 220lb with big hands so it's an actual concern lol. Are the pipes easier to push in when primed and covered in glue?

 

[stunreefer Verified Sponsor]

Are the pipes easier to push in when primed and covered in glue?

Yes. They're should slide in pretty easily to a primed and cemented bulkhead, unlike while dry fitting.

 

[BigJohnny]

Yes. They're should slide in pretty easily to a primed and cemented bulkhead, unlike while dry fitting.

Ah ok, fantastic. Thanks for the reassurance

 

[BigJohnny]

Well I was reassured until I realized I have to dry fit everything first. Also, how far are pipes supposed to go into fittings? I'm not sure mine go all the way in. BTW I'm using schedule 80 fittings with normal schedule 40 pipe.

 

[BigJohnny]

Nvm, the bulkhead actually required much less force than the other fittings which I can glue away from the tank. Is it okay that I'm using pvc cement to connect pvc to an ABS bulkhead?

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Oatey abs to pvc transition cement.

Nvm, the bulkhead actually required much less force than the other fittings which I can glue away from the tank. Is it okay that I'm using pvc cement to connect pvc to an ABS bulkhead?

 

[spinycheek]

The diameter of the pipes makes a big difference, larger pipes are much harder to seat into fittings than small ones. The glue is essential, it lubricates, you'll never get a perfect dry fit. Just measure repeatedly until you are sure it fits. The pipe should go at least 1/2 way into the fitting, but preferably all the way in. As you insert the pipe with glue, twist it around, it helps it go in easier and makes a better seal.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Once you've twisted it on, hold it for 30 seconds or else the two pieces will want to separate.

 

[Lazys Coral House]

I prefer threaded bulkheads for this very reason. I also like to use vinyl tuning over pvc. Noise damping , easy to make modifications, can see any potential blockage, can disassemble easy.

 

[BigJohnny]

Oatey abs to pvc transition cement.

Is it essential to use that? Someone told me it wasn't necessary but the fact that there is another glue specifically designed for it concerns me.

 

[BigJohnny]

The diameter of the pipes makes a big difference, larger pipes are much harder to seat into fittings than small ones. The glue is essential, it lubricates, you'll never get a perfect dry fit. Just measure repeatedly until you are sure it fits. The pipe should go at least 1/2 way into the fitting, but preferably all the way in. As you insert the pipe with glue, twist it around, it helps it go in easier and makes a better seal.

It turns out that's it mainly my 45* elbows and one union for some reason, some other parts slip right in. I think it's just standard deviation of production, and the fact that I was trying to seat everything all the way in dry. Thanks for the tips I will def follow them.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

I would not take short cuts here. it's possible regular pvc cement would work but I've never tried it. I've been plumbing tanks for 20 years and I never take risks when it comes to adhesives. I would also recommend using a primer.

Is it essential to use that? Someone told me it wasn't necessary but the fact that there is another glue specifically designed for it concerns me.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

If you try to bottom out during dry fitting, you may not get the pieces apart again. lol. as you found out, it's not necessary when dry fitting. they should bottom out after applying the cement.

It turns out that's it mainly my 45* elbows and one union for some reason, some other parts slip right in. I think it's just standard deviation of production, and the fact that I was trying to seat everything all the way in dry. Thanks for the tips I will def follow them.

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

Sorry man, I meant you should cement together outside of the tank, then install with the bulkhead. then I saw that you want to use a union.

Cool troll, thanks for your help man. Go hide under a bridge.

 

[BigJohnny]

I prefer threaded bulkheads for this very reason. I also like to use vinyl tuning over pvc. Noise damping , easy to make modifications, can see any potential blockage, can disassemble easy.

I didn't want threaded on the dry side because they are more prone to leaks. Can't use vinyl tubing because it reduces the size temporarily with a barbed fitting and I'm already using a small 3/4" full siphon and 1" emergency for a 90g reef (converted from reef ready). But I agree completely about them being better if they can work with your build. I'm using a small run of silicone tubing from my return pump which also kills any vibration there.