First tank, 40 breeder peacock mantis

[FreshwaterConvert]

Hi, I’m new to saltwater tanks. I’ve been keeping freshwater tanks for a few years now and I work at my LFS that does both fresh and salt (I work in fresh). My girlfriend approved me getting a 40 breeder to get a peacock mantis finally I’m planning on running a tidal 75 HOB and possibly an Eshopps skimmer. I don’t see myself doing corals at all. I might eventually cave and do low light stuff since I don’t want a super powerful light (it can cause shell rot in peacocks). I’ve done a lot of research on the mantis side of things but I’m lacking in a lot of basic general saltwater knowledge. Would this technically be a FOWLR tank? What do I need to know chemistry wise? I’m planning on getting pre mixed water from my LFS but I also don’t like the thought of carrying that many buckets in order to set it up initially... also, I will probably have to move it within a year (college life ) ahh sorry so many questions.

 

[New&no clue]

Typically it would be a MOWLR, but basically yes a FOWLR. Get a good set of test, not API. Salifert or Red Sea. Personally I like Salifert as they are cheaper but still good test. If you are only going to have the mantis then chemistry should stay in line with weekly water changes. You could get a small RODI system to make your own water and mix salt. Overall it will cost you less to do it this way.

 

[benkirsch07]

Hi, I’m new to saltwater tanks. I’ve been keeping freshwater tanks for a few years now and I work at my LFS that does both fresh and salt (I work in fresh). My girlfriend approved me getting a 40 breeder to get a peacock mantis finally I’m planning on running a tidal 75 HOB and possibly an Eshopps skimmer. I don’t see myself doing corals at all. I might eventually cave and do low light stuff since I don’t want a super powerful light (it can cause shell rot in peacocks). I’ve done a lot of research on the mantis side of things but I’m lacking in a lot of basic general saltwater knowledge. Would this technically be a FOWLR tank? What do I need to know chemistry wise? I’m planning on getting pre mixed water from my LFS but I also don’t like the thought of carrying that many buckets in order to set it up initially... also, I will probably have to move it within a year (college life ) ahh sorry so many questions.

You have probably heard horror stories of peacock mantis' breaking glass tanks. Its most likely that if he was going to crack your glass it would be the bottom panel of the 40 breeder. I'm really close with the guys at my LFS and they had one for a store pet in a 40 breeder right at the front and he had a deep burrow. When he burrowed he would thump the bottom glass to see if he could break it dig any deeper. Put an acrylic sheet on the bottom panel of glass so that if he decides to give that bottom panel a Mike Tyson punch, you don't end up with 40 gallons of water on your floor. I know you didn't ask about this in your post, but everytime I hear or see someone say anything about a peacock mantis in a glass tank I add this little tidbit. Good luck my man! Theyre super cool animals!

 

[FreshwaterConvert]

Thank you! This might be a dumb question, but I can dump old water down the toilet right? The salt isn’t gonna screw anything up?

 

[KevinC]

40 seems like a huge tank for a mantis. I don’t think people go that big for a mantis only tank, You probably won’t see him half the time either.

also I doubt you need a eshopp skimmer unless you have a huge employee discount lol, any skimmer would work honestly

 

[benkirsch07]

Thank you! This might be a dumb question, but I can dump old water down the toilet right? The salt isn’t gonna screw anything up?

Yeah absolutely you can. I normally dump mine down my toilet when I do a water change on my tanks. The salt won't screw anything up at all. I would also recommend that you get yourself a small RODI unit like the person stated above. It will save you a bunch of time and money, and if you have an emergency and need water, you have it right in your home. For an invert like a mantis the most important chemistry value is probably calcium so just make sure you keep that up. As long as you're doing weekly water changes you wont have to dose or anything.

 

[benkirsch07]

40 seems like a huge tank for a mantis. I don’t think people go that big for a mantis only tank, You probably won’t see him half the time either

I disagree. If its a Mantis only tank he'll set up a burrow and keep his head poked out at all times waiting for a meal. They're very personable and it will learn to be present whenever he enters the room. 40 is certainly bigger than necessary, but it gives both him and the mantis more flexibility to do what they want.

 

[Nanorock1970]

Thank you! This might be a dumb question, but I can dump old water down the toilet right? The salt isn’t gonna screw anything up?

Public sewer, good to go,,,septic, depends on how much saltwater you dump in and how large your septic is.

 

[FreshwaterConvert]

Thanks for the responses everyone. It’s a public sewer. And I was gonna go with 40 for water quality as well as a HOB skimmer and I’d heard good things about the eshopps brand HOB and not much else. My LFS has used reef octo 100s every now and then that I might go with instead. There’s a used RODI system I might get as well as a backup, but I think I’m gonna try and use store water at least initially. I’m planning on keeping backup water around just in case if I go that route, at least in the beginning. I’m in an apartment and so I can’t make any permanent changes to plumbing or anything, and also money. In the short term it’ll be cheaper and easier doing store water rather than mixing and buying a bunch of stuff. But I do plan on eventually making my own water.

 

[FreshwaterConvert]

As for the acrylic comment, I’m planning on doing egg crate along the bottom since that is readily available. I am also going to be doing a thick sand bed with some PVC along with a ton of rock, some live some dry. One think I’m not sure on is lighting. I’m not even sure if I wanna do a separate light at all, I’m worried about shell rot. Filtration wise I’m gonna go with either a tidal 75 or 110, probably some sort of HOB skimmer. Heater wise I’m planning on doing the Fluval ones with the plastic covers or a cobalt heater that’s got a super thin profile and a very small light

 

[Purkey Pets]

Make a burrow! It will allow you to choose where the mantis will be seen the most, in the openings of their den. It will also give them an instant home and reduce stress, blocking most of the light and guarantee that rocks won't cave/crush. No need for acrylic bottom with this either.

 

[FreshwaterConvert]

Oh nice, what material is that? I was gonna use some black PVC. Also, what size is it? I’m not sure if I should go with 1.5 inches, 2 inches, or something completely different.

 

[Purkey Pets]

I used a 3-inch PVC conduit 90 elbow, and cut the larger portion off to shorten the pipe

2 inches might fit, but won't allow a peacock to turn around inside when fully grown. Mine is right at 6 inches and she can turn around just fine it seems.

 

[FreshwaterConvert]

Thank you, I’ll definitely look into that and do a 3” option. As far as this thread goes, for a mantis only tank, would I still need to worry about dosing various things, also what would ideal levels of various parameters be for a MOWLR tank or tank with a few Zoas be?

 

[benkirsch07]

Thank you, I’ll definitely look into that and do a 3” option. As far as this thread goes, for a mantis only tank, would I still need to worry about dosing various things, also what would ideal levels of various parameters be for a MOWLR tank or tank with a few Zoas be?

I would go ahead and grab a calcium, nitrate, phosphate, and maybe an alkalinity test kit. Zoas will grow absolutely fine and quickly as long as you do your weekly water changes, as that will restore the nutrients they need to grow, and keep the nitrates down. For your Mantis' health, calcium is the most important and will allow them to easily grow quicker and at their own pace. As inverts with an exoskeleton they pull calcium from the water and use it to build a larger exoskeleton. Just get the test kits to be safe, test once a week to make sure your levels are on point, and do your weekly water changes. If you do a weekly water change, and you only plan on keeping zoas or some soft corals, no dosing will be needed at all. Good luck my man! Post some pics of your setup and your Mantis as you build it and once you get her!

 

[FreshwaterConvert]

Thank you so much. And I definitely will. I’ll make a full blown build thread once I get going. For calcium, is there a specific level that’s too low or to shoot for? And how much water should I aim to change weekly, about 25%?

 

[benkirsch07]

Thank you so much. And I definitely will. I’ll make a full blown build thread once I get going. For calcium, is there a specific level that’s too low or to shoot for? And how much water should I aim to change weekly, about 25%?

Just buy a good salt. I recommend the Red Sea Blue Bucket as that's what I use for my mixed reef and its great. That may be a little overkill if you're just going to be keeping zoas, but it gives you some flexibility so that if in the future you wanna try some LPS in your mantis tank you can do that without having to switch to another more suitable salt. As long as your calcium is between 360-420 you should be okay and your Mantis will have as much calcium as he wants to consume. As for weekly changes I would say anywhere from 10-25 percent is good. You'll dilute plenty of the nitrates and restore calcium and other elements with only that. I personally do 10-15 percent per week because I'm not changing so much I shock my tank with a drastic dilution of elements.

 

[lion king]

As far as chemistry goes, I would recommend keeping reef levels of ca and mg, fish do use elements from the water colmumn, and I've found predator tanks to benefit. Also maintain elements required by inverts, like iodine, do your research to find all the necessities.

 

[FreshwaterConvert]

Awesome. Thank you both so much. 10-15% water changes is gonna be a lot easier than a 25% . Thanks also for the specifics on the calc levels. I’ve heard varying things about iodine. Initially I’d seen you’re supposed to dose it to help with molts but then I found a thread on a different forum that dosing iodine causes them to molt early and can be fatal, so I have much more research for that. I’ll probably not dose iodine but I will keep an eye on the levels.

 

[lion king]

Awesome. Thank you both so much. 10-15% water changes is gonna be a lot easier than a 25% . Thanks also for the specifics on the calc levels. I’ve heard varying things about iodine. Initially I’d seen you’re supposed to dose it to help with molts but then I found a thread on a different forum that dosing iodine causes them to molt early and can be fatal, so I have much more research for that. I’ll probably not dose iodine but I will keep an eye on the levels.

I would not dose it to higher levels, just be mindful of natural levels. If you are doing frequent water changes with a quality salt you will be fine. I run refugiums in my predator tanks and really don't do water changes at all, so i replace the necessary elements, after testing of course. I don't add anything without testing, and don't add anything I can't test. Many people ignore or don't understand that livestock use elements also. so even in a non reef set up. you want to be mindful of certain elements.