First testing

David Grubb

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Just tested my water after tank was set up and running for 3 days now my test results are as followed. The p.h. 8.0, ammonia .50, nitrite 0, nitrate o, and the salt is at .0225.
Was wondering if everything is looking ok to you guys, I know its a slow process but this is my first tank and just trying to get all the feed back i can get, there are no local pet stores or people that I know that do saltwater slim kinda on my own here
 
Yep right on track. Soon that ammonia level will drop when beneficial bacteria cultures start up. You'll be looking for 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite and some nitrate reading. But its been 3 days so give it a little time. Slow and steady wins the race!
 
Not saying anything bad but just trying to understand, but everything ive read has said to keep it at .o22 on the salt why do I need to bring it up to .o26.
Like I said tho just trying to learn and understand
 
Not saying anything bad but just trying to understand, but everything ive read has said to keep it at .o22 on the salt why do I need to bring it up to .o26.
Like I said tho just trying to learn and understand

That might be a recommendation for a fish tank, or a FOWLR tank (fish only), but not a reef with invertebrates. Be careful what it is is being recommended for. The 1.0225 number is way lower than their natural environment, and would be way lower than is typically kept by reefers at sites like this or other other big name sites.

here's one of my salinity discussions:

Optimal Parameters for a Coral Reef Aquarium: By Randy Holmes-Farley
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/o...-reef-aquarium-by-randy-holmes-farley.173563/

Salinity

There are a variety of different ways to measure and report salinity, including conductivity probes, refractometers, and hydrometers. They typically report values for specific gravity (which has no units) or salinity (in units of ppt or parts per thousand, roughly corresponding to the number of grams of dry salt in 1 kg of the water), although conductivity (in units of mS/cm, milliSiemens per centimeter) is sometimes used.

Somewhat surprisingly, aquarists do not always use units that naturally follow from their measurement technique (specific gravity for hydrometers, refractive index for refractometers, and conductivity for conductivity probes) but rather use the units interchangeably.

For reference, natural ocean water has an average salinity of about 35 ppt, corresponding to a specific gravity of about 1.0264 and a conductivity of 53 mS/cm. It often ranges from 34-36 ppt over reefs, but can be higher or lower locally for various reasons such as land run off of fresh water, or evaporation from a lagoon.

As far as I know, there is little real evidence that keeping a coral reef aquarium at anything other than natural levels is preferable. It appears to be common practice to keep marine fish, and in many cases reef aquaria, at somewhat lower than natural salinity levels. This practice stems, at least in part, from the belief that fish are less stressed at reduced salinity. I have no idea if that is true or not, but I’ve not seen evidence that it is true. Substantial misunderstandings have also arisen in the past among aquarists as to how specific gravity really relates to salinity and density, especially considering temperature effects. For example, the density of seawater is less than the specific gravity, and measurements with glass hydrometers may require temperature correction, but newer devices do not need the aquarist to make corrections. Consequently, older salinity or “specific gravity†recommendations may not actually be referring to the same measurements that aquarists make today, even if the recommended numbers have been handed down

My recommendation is to maintain salinity at a natural level. If the organisms in the aquarium are from brackish environments with lower salinity, or from the Red Sea with higher salinity, selecting something other than 35 ppt may make good sense. Otherwise, I suggest targeting a target salinity of 35 ppt (specific gravity = 1.0264; conductivity = 53 mS/cm).
 
So how would I bring the levels up without changing out the water, can I just add saltwater to it as the water evaporates or do I need to do it another way
 
You could just add salt water to make up evaporation, or if you dont have live rock in the tank, you could just add salt directly. Just go slow and let it circulate in the tank for a day and then test again. As for general testing, your tank is very young- I would recommenced maybe twice a week, so you dont go through a bunch of reagents. Is there rock, live of dead base rock in the tank now? Slow and steady is the key! Patience now will pay huge dividends going forward. Good luck!
 

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