First time I have found clown eggs.

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My clowns have spawned for the first time that I have witnessed. Saw them last night. Don’t know if I can get them out since in the rock work, but wondering if I have time to set up a hatching system. I have everything I need except rotifers. Can probably get them by Tuesday. Any thoughts. I have 20g tank air pump tubing bubblers light etc.

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

My clowns have spawned for the first time that I have witnessed. Saw them last night. Don’t know if I can get them out since in the rock work, but wondering if I have time to set up a hatching system. I have everything I need except rotifers. Can probably get them by Tuesday. Any thoughts. I have 20g tank air pump tubing bubblers light etc.

I think you could do it, especially if all you need are the rotifers.

 

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I think you could do it, especially if all you need are the rotifers.

Is there any safe way to get the eggs off the rock?

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

Is there any safe way to get the eggs off the rock?

Not that I’m aware of, unfortunately. In situations like this, most people recommend adding a tile or clay pot (Edit: to the area where the clowns are currently/already laying their eggs) for the clowns to lay future batches on; but for this batch, if you want to try and raise it, these (really this, since it’s the same concept just executed differently) are the best ideas I’ve heard to get the fry out the night they hatch:

Yes. You should have a plan for getting the Fry out of the tank. When the fry turn 'silver' - in the eggs - they will hatch that night. there are numerous ways to do it. If you can remove the rock - before the hatching - all the better. If not - use a light and siphon the fry out (they will swim to the light - after hatching)

What I have done is the night they hatch and as soon as your lights turn off, I turn off all my pumps take a white coffee/tea cup I used a dim led light to catch the fry in , your will see them hatching shine the dimmed light on the cup the fry will be attracted to the light scoop up as many as you can and place in your frag tank.

You will also need a straight bubble wand , I think mine came from Petco, You will have to ajust your bubbles to a minimum , you will also need a good small heater to maintain the temperature to the displays temperature. If the heater has a light on it you will have to black it out other wise the fry will be attracted to it and die.

 

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Not that I’m aware of, unfortunately. In situations like this, most people recommend adding a tile or clay pot for the clowns to lay future batches on; but for this batch, if you want to try and raise it, these (really this, since it’s the same concept just executed differently) are the best ideas I’ve heard to get the fry out the night they hatch:

Thanks a lot. Really appreciate it. Going on two years with this pair, have three pairs total in three different tanks and have never seen eggs before. Have all kinds of set ups for growing out if I can get past hatching. So excited to try.
I thought about lightly glueing a Frag plate there after this batch. The anemone covers them when it is expanded so who knows maybe they have done it before. The nem happened to be retracted last night.

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

Thanks a lot. Really appreciate it. Going on two years with this pair, have three pairs total in three different tanks and have never seen eggs before. Have all kinds of set ups for growing out if I can get past hatching. So excited to try.
I thought about lightly glueing a Frag plate there after this batch. The anemone covers them when it is expanded so who knows maybe they have done it before. The nem happened to be retracted last night.

Happy to help - good luck!

 

[vetteguy53081]

My clowns have spawned for the first time that I have witnessed. Saw them last night. Don’t know if I can get them out since in the rock work, but wondering if I have time to set up a hatching system. I have everything I need except rotifers. Can probably get them by Tuesday. Any thoughts. I have 20g tank air pump tubing bubblers light etc.

I have 4 breeder pairs and Unfortunately if other fish are in the tank, the eggs will likely get consumed by parent inexperience or Scavenging by tankmates. Now that you have a breeder pair and know they are egg laying, you can give them a flower-pot or tube to lay future clutches in which you can transfer the eggs and parents to a 20 or 29g tank with same tank water and temperature and run a sponge filter and bring the babies up.
There IS a chance some of the fry may survive from ythis clutch. You will know as the eggs will wiggle, you will see eye and then free swimmers.
If this happens, Have live Baby Brine shrimp and rotifiers ready as this will be their first foods

 

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I have 4 breeder pairs and Unfortunately if other fish are in the tank, the eggs will likely get consumed by parent inexperience or Scavenging by tankmates. Now that you have a breeder pair and know they are egg laying, you can give them a flower-pot or tube to lay future clutches in which you can transfer the eggs and parents to a 20 or 29g tank with same tank water and temperature and run a sponge filter and bring the babies up.
There IS a chance some of the fry may survive from ythis clutch. You will know as the eggs will wiggle, you will see eye and then free swimmers.
If this happens, Have live Baby Brine shrimp and rotifiers ready as this will be their first foods

Do I need both brine and rotifers or can I just go with rotifers? Asking as from what I read rotifers will be real easy and I have what I need for them just have to order a starter kit. Not sure what it takes to raise brine.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Do I need both brine and rotifers or can I just go with rotifers? Asking as from what I read rotifers will be real easy and I have what I need for them just have to order a starter kit. Not sure what it takes to raise brine.

preferably for me: Rotifiers

Some of mine . . . . .

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

Do I need both brine and rotifers or can I just go with rotifers? Asking as from what I read rotifers will be real easy and I have what I need for them just have to order a starter kit. Not sure what it takes to raise brine.

Rotifers and TDO Chromaboost pellets (in place of brine shrimp) work just fine as evidenced by a number of threads here on Reef2Reef:

Happy Weekend Everyone!

Today the fry are 6 days old, and I was very pleased to see no losses this morning. I was semi- expecting it as I did my first water change yesterday (a bit late I know) but I was worried about stressing them and I’ve had no noticeable losses so far as a very small first hatch.
Today I plan to change another 1-2 litres and replace with parent tank water.

The fry look like little peanuts in a shell now and are growing well! I introduced TDO A three days ago and I’m certain they are eating this when it’s sprinkled in the tank. I have chosen this route rather than feeding BBS as I hope this will mean I don’t loose any fry to SFS. I will try and add another video I took this morning, just after feeding TDO and before I tinted the water!

 

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preferably for me: Rotifiers

Some of mine . . . . .

Super nice. Planning to attach some frag plates after this batch. I assume the parents have to come out of the tank on hatch night when I’m able to move the eggs and clowns to a separate tank. I assume they will be ok without the anemone.
I’m hoping the eggs won’t get scavenged as they are actually under the nem most of the time. It has shrunk down completely or I wouldn’t have even seen the eggs.

 

[StoneNeo82]

I hope all goes well and you will keep everyone updated.

 

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preferably for me: Rotifiers

Some of mine . . . . .

I’m seeing 5-10 days for hatching. Just saw them last night. Was thinking of running to reefstock next weekend in Denver, but guessing this is going to take precedence.

 

[ISpeakForTheSeas]

I assume the parents have to come out of the tank on hatch night when I’m able to move the eggs and clowns to a separate tank.

Actually, I believe it’s preferred to just transfer the young/eggs; so the parents should stay in their current tank.

 

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Actually, I believe it’s preferred to just transfer the young/eggs; so the parents should stay in their current tank.

Ok I thought the tended to them and vetteguy said something about pulling them I thought.

 

[UltraKelius]

Leave the parents in their tank. As soon as the eggs hatch they will eat the fry. I have witnessed this first hand many a time! If you can, move the rock with eggs into a fry tank or catch the fry on hatch night and move over to fry tank. Best of luck!

 

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So the eggs are getting a little redder and maybe seeing the beginnings of eye formation. Have tried to find pictures so I can try to determine when they will hatch. Thinking a couple more days at least. The nem is covering them so hard to get a really good look.
I received my rotifers today and set up their culture bucket. Got it from Reef Nutrition. Acclimating the starter culture now.
I have a cyan issue in the DT and have been going to do a water change, but now am afraid to change the conditions of the tank. Any insight would be appreciated. Also I have seen that the fry tank should be filled with the DT water. Should I set that up now? Or wait for hatching night.
Thanks for any help.

 

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Happy to help - good luck!

The DT has a cyan issue. I was planning on a cleaning the next day but found the eggs. Wondering if it is better to wait or do it now. Nitrates are fairly low around 6 but my phosphates in that tank and my other predator tank are over the moon. Max out the Hanna tester when I use 2ml tank water and 8ml fresh made.
One issue with a water change is I might get the water below the eggs, and think that is probably a bad idea. However should I pull some water from the DT and start up the fry tank now, or wait until hatch night.
I’ve read both using all DT water or 1/2 and 1/2. Any recommendation?

thanks.
Kent

 

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preferably for me: Rotifiers

Some of mine . . . . .

The DT has a cyan issue. I was planning on a cleaning the next day but found the eggs. Wondering if it is better to wait or do it now. Nitrates are fairly low around 6 but my phosphates in that tank and my other predator tank are over the moon. Max out the Hanna tester when I use 2ml tank water and 8ml fresh made.
One issue with a water change is I might get the water below the eggs, and think that is probably a bad idea. However should I pull some water from the DT and start up the fry tank now, or wait until hatch night.
I’ve read both using all DT water or 1/2 and 1/2. Any recommendation?

thanks.
Kent

 

[vetteguy53081]

The DT has a cyan issue. I was planning on a cleaning the next day but found the eggs. Wondering if it is better to wait or do it now. Nitrates are fairly low around 6 but my phosphates in that tank and my other predator tank are over the moon. Max out the Hanna tester when I use 2ml tank water and 8ml fresh made.
One issue with a water change is I might get the water below the eggs, and think that is probably a bad idea. However should I pull some water from the DT and start up the fry tank now, or wait until hatch night.
I’ve read both using all DT water or 1/2 and 1/2. Any recommendation?

thanks.
Kent

I agree with your suppositions, and while you want to address the cyano, you will have to work around it. For phosphate, you can add to sump, Chemipure blue or elite which will gradually bring it down or even rowaphos.
Fir water change, to avoid getting water too low for eggs, first add seawater, then remove. Add more, then again remove- this way level will stay up to level while performing exchanges