First time plumbing, will it work?
- Thread starter deerhunter06
- Start date
- Tagged users None
DaveMorris
MACNA2016 Co-Chair
Please don't take this the wrong way, but if you would rather do it quick and cheap and are really concerned about not buying more PVC for this set up to do it right, you have entered the wrong hobby. All of the PVC to plumb that whole setup could be bought for $20. If you don't want to spend another $5 or $10 on a little more PVC for a better flow setup then I would be concerned about all of the other situations that you will most certainly run into down the road. Your approach to the plumbing comes across like you will nickel and dime things together. That will only make this expensive hobby much more expensive and frustrating in the long run.
OP
OP
deerhunter06
Valuable Member
Considering I just spent about 5 grand on my set up I don't think I have anything to worry about. Also whether my drain goes into a bulkhead or not literally makes no difference for the flow. Don't take this the wrong way but please know what u are talking about Before u try to help.
Last edited:
OP
OP
deerhunter06
Valuable Member
I don't know what kind it is, it's a center overflow. I'm not sure what a full siphon system is.
DaveMorris
MACNA2016 Co-Chair
I do know what I am talking about very well, thank you. The PVC shown in your picture is minimal and if you needed to replace what I can see in that picture yes it would be about $20. If you don't want to hear people's opinions on your setup/questions, then don't ask for them. No need to get your panties in a bunch over it. A lot of us are here to try to help and that is the basis for my response.
I wouldn't know how much a 3/4" check valve costs because I would never, under any circumstances, put a check valve on an aquarium setup. It is a point of failure 99.9% of the time.
DaveMorris
MACNA2016 Co-Chair
A "full siphon system" would be referring to a Herbie overflow or a Bean Animal overflow. Those two styles require at least one drain line to be fully submerged in your sump which will result in a siphon being created from your overflow box. Both of these drain styles run completely silent if they are set up correctly. If you are using something like a Durso drain or something similar to that, then you would not want your drain line to actually be submerged in the sump.
I also currently run 3/4 inch pvc as well. The only thing I dislike is the 90' angles that cut off the pressure. Have yet to switch them out. But installed unions also are life savers for changing pumps. And messing around.
OP
OP
deerhunter06
Valuable Member
Now that's helping someone dave. Thank you for explaining that to me.
Now telling someone they are cheap after they just spent 5000 dollars and a week straight working on there system well that's just a kick in the nuts. If you wanna have helpful posts feel free, you wanna continue to tell me I'm in the wrong hobby and call me cheap and lay on the insults yeah I'm gonna get my panties in a bunch. Further more when someone asked why I didn't use the bulkhead on the sump my response was not a lazy one, it was a response assuming (first time plumbing here) it made no difference whether I used the bulk heads or not I thought they were there just to make it easier to use filter socks. Which I do not want use filter socks also not because I'm lazy but because of nitrate build up. Anyways, sorry I got angry but I'm not being cheap at all. I just want a simple and correct way to complete this plumbing.
A single 1" Stockman standpipe will flow 800-900+ GPH when set up correctly. I am using one along with a WaterBlaster HY-5000 pump at 4-5 feet of head running wide open with no issues.
OP
OP
deerhunter06
Valuable Member
I did the durso standpipe it seems the drain is not keeping up with the pump, It takes about 20 minutes for the pump to get ahead of the drain and start pumping air so its very close to being right on, I was thinking ill just put in a ball valve to control the return??
You should always plumb a ball or gate valve on the discharge side of a return pump so you can throttle the pump if necessary. Did you install an airline tube down in the cap of the Durso so you can adjust the water/air mixture for best flow?
I use the Stockman version of the Durso and the overflow end has been submerged in the sump since day one 11 years ago. It takes the total flow from a WaterBlaster HY-5000 with no problem at all. Much quieter that way and does not affect the flow
I use the Stockman version of the Durso and the overflow end has been submerged in the sump since day one 11 years ago. It takes the total flow from a WaterBlaster HY-5000 with no problem at all. Much quieter that way and does not affect the flow
OP
OP
deerhunter06
Valuable Member
Yes i did the hole with airline tube and my drain is below the water line is surprisingly quiet.
Slowly adjusting the insertion depth of that airline a fraction of an inch at a time will also change the flow rate of the standpipe and overflow. I find when it hits the sweet spot it really takes off since it has the optimal air/water mixture for a full siphon and laminar flow. No bubbles in the sump either.
