First time sump setup

Bigtrout

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Hi, freshwater guy here that helps out with the reef-pi project.

I built a simple 3 chamber 40 breeder sump for my 75 gallon freshwater planted setup. Im looking to replace 3 canister filters with a sump setup.

Mrs. Santa is bringing me a few things this year:
With the help of my saltwater buddy while I was in Japan, she ordered some stuff so that I can install my sump. She must be sick of the diy 40 breeder sump sitting in the spare bedroom.

Id rather drill my 75 but thats not feasible because its very established and Id rather not start over with the plants. So for xmas she ordered me an eshoppes pf-1200 hob overflow and a Jebao DCP-6500 return pump.

My saltwater friend says because I only need to turn over 500 gph thru the sump that I set up the pf-1200 in a herbie configuration with one overflow drain as a full siphon with a gate valve for tuning and the other as an emergency drain. Because I dont need the full 1200gph, to only use one U tube in the hob overflow so flow clears all bubbles.

Does this sound like a good plan?

The pf-1200 has 2 1 inch bulkheads so drain size will be 1", but will 1 inch be ok for my return line from the return pump?
Any other advise that would be helpful on the piping setup?
 
Sounds like a solid plan.

Since it sounds like you have a solid electrical understanding given your contributions to the reefpi project, I’d also recommend adding a float valve to shut off the return pump in case of the HOB overflow failure (I.e. if the display water creeps up too high, power to the return pump is killed in order to prevent a waterfall in your living room!)

FYI this is coming from someone that has never run a HOB overflow but understands the mechanics of one and potential failure points. HTH
 
So there's two ways you can have a failure with an HOBOB (which can be extremely reliable and accident free). If you're not installing the right size for pumps and get air bubbles in u-tube they will stop flow (and the design you picked doesn't rely on air pump to remove - good again) - so your buddy is right and removing one sounds good. Also putting a valve in the drain line and getting it clogged with any number of things - since that's backed up with emergency drain, you're good there too.

I run the level in my pump chamber and my tank level such that even if i lose all drain flow I can't overflow tank. Float switch works well, too but it is mechanical.
 
I run the level in my pump chamber and my tank level such that even if i lose all drain flow I can't overflow tank.

I like this method as well. Only risk is running the pump semi-dry and damaging the pump, but still preventing the overflow of the tank. Good solution.
 
I like this method as well. Only risk is running the pump semi-dry and damaging the pump, but still preventing the overflow of the tank. Good solution.
True...I'd never buy a pump without a run dry shut off protection. Good point I took for granted.
 
I like this method as well. Only risk is running the pump semi-dry and damaging the pump, but still preventing the overflow of the tank. Good solution.
Supposedly the dcp-6500 has run dry protection built into the controller so Im covered there as well. I can also use float switches as a backup.

I also calculated my sump chambers such that the return pump cant overflow the tank if the siphon stops and the sump can hold all drain water from the main tank if the return pump fails.
 
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A week into the sump system and everything working great. The herbie on a hob with dual overflows is dead silent im runing about 600gph thru the setup. Starts back up after power outtage and doesnt accumulate any bubbles.

Ive tested :
Power outtage...starts back up and sump has plenty of space for the water that drains from the display. I put 2 1/4 holes in the return just under the waterline.

One u tube blocks: other will take up the slack.

Both u tubes block or I lose siphon: the return section was calculated not to overflow the tank. My dcp-6500 will suck air and shut itself off.

The herbie drain clogs: the emergency standpipe will take the full flow.

Both drains clog: see above same as losing siphon.

Any other failure scenarios i havent thought of?

That being said I may still add 2 float switches that I can monitor remotely with reef pi and use as a redunant pump shut off if the DT level gets too high OR the sump level gets too low.
 
So far so good...no bubbles collecting in siphon tubes whatsoever. Im estimating im close to 600gph thru the overflow and siphon always starts after power failure or feeding when i shut the return pump off.
The herbie tuning has been set the gate valve and forget it.
 

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