First time using a sump.

[Noob_Sam]

Hello Everyone,

I upgraded to a 135 system two days ago. My return pump is coming today therefore I can finally get the tank fully set up and started. I was just wondering how to properly get the sump running. I tried to look up YT vids but they don't show the part where they are filling it up and getting the cycle going. I read different ways to do it but I am not sure which is the best so I can prevent it from overflowing in case of a power outage. It would be great if someone would tell me step by step, thank you.

 

[bradreef]

To sources to overflow if the return pump stops.

1 . It will drain to the bottom over the overflow, make sure it can hanlde that much water.



2. The return plumbing can siphon back down. Make sure it isnt to low and has a hole for a siphon air break

 

[dstockwell]

What is the 135 tank setup for draining, posting a pick can help. Does it have built in overflows, how many holes, etc?

 

[Geebs19]

Agreed, post pics of tank and sump.

 

[Super Fly]

I often referred to GMAC Reef website for sump design/info

Reef Tank Sump Design - gmacreef

A reef tank sump can take advantage of modern overflow methods to process water quietly and safely. It will also fail-safes in place to prevent floods.

gmacreef.com

 

[PotatoPig]

Put water in tank until it gets to the overflow.

Put water in sump until it’s filled to the baffle before the return pump, including filling the return pump section.

Turn pump on. It’ll pump water up, water will flow through the tank, into the overflow and back to the sump.

You’ll need to add a little more water as you do this because the water level in the tank will rise a little to meet the flow, causing the sump return section in the sump to empty. Once you have it stabilized you’re set.

Precautions:

1. When you turn the pump off it will siphon water from your tank to your sump until the return nozzle hits air. Make 100% sure the head of the return nozzle isn’t too far below the water or it will overflow the sump. Test this while watching to make sure your sump has capacity to handle the return siphon.

2. Alternatively fit a one way valve to the return line that you trust to the full value of replacing your floors.

3. Suggest making sure the pump is in a baffled off section of the sump with a weir. In case of a drain line blockage this will give the pump access to only a few gallons of water so it won’t pump the entire sump into your display tank. Alternatively, again, fit enough redundancy to your drain lines that you trust to the full value of replacing your floors.

4. Highly recommend putting the sump in some sort of lined container/lining the base of the stand (if a rocketengineer style one) with a 6mil plastic liner to create an emergency overflow reservoir.

 

[Noob_Sam]

What is the 135 tank setup for draining, posting a pick can help. Does it have built in overflows, how many holes, etc?

I included pics now. It's just a very simple design.

 

[Noob_Sam]

Put water in tank until it gets to the overflow.

Put water in sump until it’s filled to the baffle before the return pump, including filling the return pump section.

Turn pump on. It’ll pump water up, water will flow through the tank, into the overflow and back to the sump.

You’ll need to add a little more water as you do this because the water level in the tank will rise a little to meet the flow, causing the sump return section in the sump to empty. Once you have it stabilized you’re set.

Precautions:

1. When you turn the pump off it will siphon water from your tank to your sump until the return nozzle hits air. Make 100% sure the head of the return nozzle isn’t too far below the water or it will overflow the sump. Test this while watching to make sure your sump has capacity to handle the return siphon.

2. Alternatively fit a one way valve to the return line that you trust to the full value of replacing your floors.

3. Suggest making sure the pump is in a baffled off section of the sump with a weir. In case of a drain line blockage this will give the pump access to only a few gallons of water so it won’t pump the entire sump into your display tank. Alternatively, again, fit enough redundancy to your drain lines that you trust to the full value of replacing your floors.

4. Highly recommend putting the sump in some sort of lined container/lining the base of the stand (if a rocketengineer style one) with a 6mil plastic liner to create an emergency overflow reservoir.

This is helpful for what I was looking for. So when the water in the sump goes down, do I need to keep refilling the sump until I get a balanced flow?

 

[dstockwell]

2. Alternatively fit a one way valve to the return line that you trust to the full value of replacing your floors.

Are you referring to a check valve, if so these are not really recommended.

 

[PotatoPig]

Are you referring to a check valve, if so these are not really recommended.

Oh, I fully agree. I was trying to allude to them being a bad idea by reference to the significant financial cost of a failure.

 

[PotatoPig]

This is helpful for what I was looking for. So when the water in the sump goes down, do I need to keep refilling the sump until I get a balanced flow?

Right. When you first turn the pump on it’ll pump water up to the tank, which will raise the water level in the display tank a little until it’s far enough above the overflow that the flow rate through the overflow is equal to the flow rate from the pump. This could empty/mostly empty the water in the baffled off pump section of the sump. So keep it topped up until you get equilibrium.

When you turn the pump off first the water in the tank will flow through the overflow, filling up the sump likely well last the return pump baffle section, then the pump line will siphon water back down until the nozzle is above water. You want to make sure that in this condition the sump isn’t close to overflowing.

You will also likely need to top up the sump every day or so to compensate for evaporation- you’ll see this clearly with the water level in the sump compartment lowering over the course of a day.

 

[Noob_Sam]

Right. When you first turn the pump on it’ll pump water up to the tank, which will raise the water level in the display tank a little until it’s far enough above the overflow that the flow rate through the overflow is equal to the flow rate from the pump. This could empty/mostly empty the water in the baffled off pump section of the sump. So keep it topped up until you get equilibrium.

When you turn the pump off first the water in the tank will flow through the overflow, filling up the sump likely well last the return pump baffle section, then the pump line will siphon water back down until the nozzle is above water. You want to make sure that in this condition the sump isn’t close to overflowing.

You will also likely need to top up the sump every day or so to compensate for evaporation- you’ll see this clearly with the water level in the sump compartment lowering over the course of a day.

Okay got it. My return pump just came. Now I put it in the pvc and it lifted the pump about an inch off the bottom. Is that fine? or should I add something under it?

 

[PotatoPig]

Okay got it. My return pump just came. Now I put it in the pvc and it lifted the pump about an inch off the bottom. Is that fine? or should I add something under it?

Mine is a little lifted up too. I’m not sure it’s an issue. If anything it’ll reduce vibrations if it’s just floating a little vs being in contact with the glass.

 

[Noob_Sam]

Mine is a little lifted up too. I’m not sure it’s an issue. If anything it’ll reduce vibrations if it’s just floating a little vs being in contact with the glass.

Okay perfect, thank you for your help