First time water testing a large tank

Picesduh

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 14, 2017
Messages
384
Reaction score
235
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hello everyone. Today I’m going to water test a 135G tank to make sure all the plumbing is leak free. I’m using water from the sink for the test and then will drain all the water from the tank and sump and fill with RODI water to mix the salt directly in the new tank. (The only think big enough for this first time setup). I have a very simply question - how do you completely drain the water once the test is over? I’m use to smaller tanks where I can just pick it up but on a larger tank how do you drain the water 100% and not have an inch or two left by the pump? I can’t imagine all of you guys have a wet vacuum in your homes for this. I suppose I could rent one but is that the only way?
 
Hello everyone. Today I’m going to water test a 135G tank to make sure all the plumbing is leak free. I’m using water from the sink for the test and then will drain all the water from the tank and sump and fill with RODI water to mix the salt directly in the new tank. (The only think big enough for this first time setup). I have a very simply question - how do you completely drain the water once the test is over? I’m use to smaller tanks where I can just pick it up but on a larger tank how do you drain the water 100% and not have an inch or two left by the pump? I can’t imagine all of you guys have a wet vacuum in your homes for this. I suppose I could rent one but is that the only way?
I used a pump to pump as much out as possible, then did use a normal wet/dry shopvac to get anything that was left.
 
I have always water tested with my saltwater. No leaks, it stays in.

If there is a leak, siphon out what you have to and store until the leak is fixed.
 
I have always water tested with my saltwater. No leaks, it stays in.

If there is a leak, siphon out what you have to and store until the leak is fixed.

Hmm guess that works too. At 150G per day RODI it’s going to finish filling overnight (I.e. tomorrow)
 
personally, I would just go straight to rodi and skip the tap water altogether. the water has to fill all the way to the top where your return feeds the tank before you even notice if your return plumbing is leaking. on your inlet side you can hand fill the overflow to the point where you can see if it's dripping or tight.
also, if both sides check out as good you just have to bring everything up to temp, add your salt and kick off the beginning of your cycle.
edit: sorry, to answer the other part of your original question, to pull water from my tank I still syphon but with a bigger tank use larger diameter hose. any time I'm adding water back or where I don't have gravity on my side I use a maxi jet 1200 utility pump and some hose. lifting pails of water is a thing of the past.
 
Last edited:
I used tap water for a 24 hour leak test, drained all water with the main return pump, then a large sponge to get the remaining water out.

While that was going on I ran the RODI into brute cans and mixed the saltwater.
 
You can remove the pump, and replace it with a cap- then pour water down the return line until it fill up.

Same firvthe overflows. Cap the lower end, fill up to top of standpipe with water.

Leave 24 hours and check fir leaks

Saves a bunch of water.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top