Fish and Coral Dips

[cccharliecc]

Can anyone recommend a good dip for all corals, sps, lps, and soft that I can get from BRS?
Also what is a good dip for fish or something for fish to add to my QT tank water when I get new fish?

I would like to get them now so I am ready.

Thank you!

 

[Crabs McJones]

For Corals
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/8-oz-coral-rx.html
For fish just a quick freshwater ro/di dip works

 

[cgdcinc]

Revive is good. Also like Bayer advanced complete insect killer. But you won’t find it at BRS. For corals.

 

[cccharliecc]

Thanks!
What is the process for the ro/di water dip?
Do you first acclimate the fish to your DT water then do it, or the other way around?

Bring water up to same temp as tank, then...?

 

[Crabs McJones]

From Humblefish

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.

 

[Crabs McJones]

I freshwater dip before adding to qt. I don't ever treat my fish in qt unless a problem shows up. That's why I keep my fish in qt for 6 weeks before adding them to the display. If a problem pops up it'll be in that 6 weeks and then I can ID the problem and treat for it.

 

[4FordFamily]

I freshwater dip before adding to qt. I don't ever treat my fish in qt unless a problem shows up. That's why I keep my fish in qt for 6 weeks before adding them to the display. If a problem pops up it'll be in that 6 weeks and then I can ID the problem and treat for it.

If you don’t have a tang or angel or something likely to show disease, wrasse, some gobies, mandarins, and a few other hardy fish species can not show any symptoms of disease, even velvet, in that timeframe. Or even better if you didn’t need those fish, a black Molly. For that to work long-term, you’d need a less hardy fish more likely to have a certain “tell”. Just an off-hand suggestoon!

I kept wrasse and even a rare blonde naso tang in a tank with velvet for a year, they became resistant but new additions would quickly succumb.

 

[Crabs McJones]

If you don’t have a tang or angel or something likely to show disease, wrasse, some gobies, and a few other hardy fish species like mandarins can not show any symptoms of disease, even velvet, in that timeframe. Or even better if you didn’t need those fish, a black Molly. For that to work long-term, you’d need a less hardy fish more likely to have a certain “tell”. Just an off-hand suggestoon!

I kept wrasse and even a rare blonde naso tang in a tank with velvet for a year, they became resistant but new additions would quickly succumb.

Kind of like an illness guinea pig. Use one fish to tell if another is ill?

 

[4FordFamily]

Kind of like an illness guinea pig. Use one fish to tell if another is ill?

Yup. Wrasse and the like are very common Typhoid Marys! They have very thick slimecoats, sleep in mucous cocoons, and/or sleep beneath the sand safe from most “hunting” parasites.

 

[Crabs McJones]

Yup. Wrasse and the like are very common Typhoid Marys! They have very thick slimecoats, sleep in mucous cocoons, and/or sleep beneath the sand safe from most “hunting” parasites.

Good advice, thank you. I'll have to use that in the future

 

[cccharliecc]

So from the freshwater dip, do you throw them right into saltwater DT water? Do you need to acclimate them back into it?

 

[Crabs McJones]

You can put them right back into the quarantine tank after a freshwater dip