Fish Disease ID

mkutsch

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Hey, everyone, I need some help identifying and putting an end to the disease, if not diseases, that my fish may carry. I'm running a 10 gallon overflow with a talbot, tiny black sailfin blend, and a yellowstripe/urchin clingfish (gobidae).

First off, I want to say that I'm not quite sure if either even have diseases (the suspected fish being the clingfish and the talbot), though it seems likely that the talbot does... It has been flashing rather commonly, almost every 10 - 30 seconds, and from what I can tell, it's behavior is the same. It is without any white spots, blotches, or any other indicators like that, and it has been doing this for a couple days now. Moving to the clingfish, I must first say that it is the most interesting fish I've ever kept; the body of a short pipefish though the movements of a blenny. Love this thing! Anywho, I got it yesterday around this time, and I am just concerned because it isn't accepting food and both a small patch of discolor and a some small dots have appeared... And is acting very lethargically. The dots may have been my imagination, and since I've no experience with this, I would appreciate it if someone who knows the species could help. Please help identify and provide information on what I should do next (btw quarantine is not an option, the tank broke and I have lost the powerhead and filter...). Thanks!


Ps damsel has started flashing at an even faster rate...
 
Can we get a picture of these guys first? It sounds like simple ick, but a picture would help quite a bit. Try to get close with it and pick the one that is most in focus please.
 
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg

These are three that I could get...couldn't find any spots, though. He hasn't moved for like a half hour.

image.jpg
 
Ok. So I dont see much in those pictures unfortunately. So I'll have to ask you some questions.

Were the spots salt sized or sugar sized? I have some pictures for comparison.

Ich
img_8198-1-jpg.319976



Velvet:
IMG_1413_zpsgknn5kpj.jpg


Did it look like either of these? How long were the spots present on the fish? Heavy breathing? Any possibility it could have been sand stuck to their slime coat? It doesn't look like you have very fine sand at all in there.
 
Sorry, let me clarify-- I'm pretty sure it isn't ich... There aren't enough or any at all, of the spots, and the fish hasn't flashed or hyperventalated. I was thinking something more along the lines of amyloodinium, though having not encountered it before, do not know how to to handle or identify it... But since it hasn't flashed, I dont know. It might just be fine, though. I'll update tomorrow.
Any ideas on a diet? I appreciate the help!
-M. K.
 
Almost forgot about the damsel! Just to update:
-Lots of flashing
-nothing else
So basically, it'll flash every 5-10 seconds but there are literally no other symptoms...also I've ruled out a piece of food stuck in gills, so please advise! Thanks.
 
Almost forgot about the damsel! Just to update:
-Lots of flashing
-nothing else
So basically, it'll flash every 5-10 seconds but there are literally no other symptoms...also I've ruled out a piece of food stuck in gills, so please advise! Thanks.

Ok, so velvet can present and show hardly any symptoms. Though typically I would expect the fish to start dying pretty quick with velvet. Though maybe a freshwater dip would be a good place to start.

Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes & "Black Ich", Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.

How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.

Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.

For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.

Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.

Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
 
In the photos of the Clingfish, I see a translucent discoloration that looks almost "fluke like".

The problem with the damsel & flashing is they will sometimes do that to display aggression/defend territory.
 
Clingfish are pretty lethargic by nature, so is behaving as I would expect.

They also frequently don't accept foods offered, but rather subsist off of pods in the tank. If it were to accept food, a small frozen mysis, such as Hikari mysis, or a type of frozen calanus copepods, such as San Francisco Bay reef plankton.
 
Really? Thsir mouthes look small, but not that small...I've previously owned a couple different pipefish (lost one to jumping, one getting caught in overflow, and one mysteriously disappeared after a long time...) so I have used pods or rotis...I'll have to try that, thanks. As for the disease, I think he is fine. Now all I'm worried about is the damsel. Thanks for the help!
 
Hello again, everyone. Sorry about my silence, as I have been extremely busy the last day or so....anyway, the damsel is all fine now, but the clingfish seems to be the opposite, unfortunately. I dont understand why, but the disease, prob. ich or velvet, got stronger as he got more acquainted and more at home, so to speak, in the tank. What I am trying to say is that he got more 'spots' as he got less sickly, afraid, or timid. He is eating something, although I have no idea what. I've tried feeding him frozen plankton and reef frenzy mixes, though he seemed to be uninterested. Anyway, here are some pictures.
rsz_img_5123.jpg
rsz_img_5120.jpg
rsz_img_5121.jpg


Let me know if you need better quality photos, or have any other questions. Thanks, guys.
 

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