Fish dying in hours...not days....

Ray Warren

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Hi People,
Any help would be most welcome.
I very successfully run 3 x 400 litre Cichlid Tanks...for years..no problems.
Too easy!!
I r.ecently I came back to Marines...has been maybe 30 years since I last had a marine tank...but haven't forgot the parameters.
It's got me totally beside myself trying to nut out what is wrong...
As follows:
New 400 litre tank
Filled with tap water...dosed with salt...Prime...Bio's (Bacteria/Start)...etc.
100 litre sump tank....filled with Shop bought BioMedia,Sponges,500 gms of crushed, bleached, sundried and thoroughly washed Oyster Shell, 3000ltres/hour sump pump ..plus...a 1700 ltre/hour Cannister Filter filled only with filter wool and Activated Charcoal.
Water parameters are all good.
GH..Good
KH....8 - 10
PH...8.5
NO2........0
NO3........0
AMMONIA........0
CHLORINE........0
SG.....1.025 or 35
Temp.......stable @27c
Aeration......plenty
As far as I can see, all is good.
Considering a RODI unit, I run an Aqua one G216 Protein Skimmer...working well.
I just completed a DIY Carbon Water Filter....packs 45 litres of Activated Charcoal,
Will put this to the test to filter any water before I go any tank to tank water changes.
Seems to be a lot of debate 're RODI Vs Carbon.
I am starting to research using standard salt ....ie:pool Salt.
Is it pure salt or do the manufactures add sufficient or a non binding agent something similar to the salt they sell us..???
I am at a complete loss to figure out what can be so lethal to fish in under 3 hours.
I surgically sterilized the tank maybe 2 weeks back.
Repeated the above steps...tank has gone thru it's NO2 cycle over 2 weeks...lovely and clear...
Put in 2 x Blue Chromis yesterday at 1.00pm.....one dead in 3 hours....next do a next morning.
Have lost over the last month or more....maybe 12 fish.....6 x crash test Damsels
6 x crash test Blue Chromis...1 x Bicolour Angel.....2 x small Valentiini Puffers.
HELP PLEASE
 
Welcome to R2R!

Sorry for your troubles. What type of salt are you using and how long are you mixing for? Did you test that your tank has been cycled? Way type of bacteria did you dose and how much?

Also, I would say getting a RODI unit should be at the top of the list, before buying anymore fish or anything else. Prime detoxifies ammonia for 48 hrs and then needs to be redosed.

Also, did you start with all dry rock? Sorry for all of the questions, but more info we get, the better we can help you!
 
Many lfs run low salinity to help combat parasites. Maybe an issue,
Fish can handle a sudden drop, but raise it too much too fast and it’s curtains
 
Good evening, sorry about the troubles

if you are loosing damsles there is some type of issue with the water itself, most likely chemical in my opinion. You said sterilized the tank, how? What salt did you use? Not using RO water will not kill fish unless there is something toxic in the water.

can you list by name everything you have used to clean and use to fill the tank. The seems to be something toxic in the water.
 
Sounds like perhaps an issue with the osmotic shock or ph shock (rare). Are there any scars, wounds or anything on the dead fish?

Other things that will kill fish that fast: O2 depletion and toxins. In some cases gram negative bacteria but there would be significant wound and tissue necrosis.
 
Welcome and hope your luck turns around;

you mentioned you filled the tank with tap water, is this "city" water if so often has chlorine or chlorimanes (sp) which is incompatible with life. Also, you mentioned you disinfected the tank, what did you use, if it was bleach or similar and was not completely dried out, rinsed out could be some nasty chemicals there.

Just food for thought as it appears your tank is really young.
 
Tap water is a nonono, disinfectant can hurt too.
I use my tap water but it's my own well that's filtered heavily, I wouldn't trust anyone elses tap unless you did water tests on theirs
 
hi welcome ,how are you acclimating these fish,sudden death like that imo some chem in water,possible loose elec current,fill us in were here to help
 
Downfall #1 was tap water. Additionally, PH seems a bit high bringing the question - What test kit(s) are you using?
The likelihood: Please describe your acclimation (steps you took to introduce them)
I think acclimation may be the issue and curious what you did before introducing them into tank

Having cichlids, the process differs. Rather than bag, I recommend floating bag(s) for 20 mins and releasing fish into a CLEAN Bucket. Then each 15 minutes, add a cup of water to bucket 6X (1.5 - 2 hrs, then catch the fish into the cup instead of net and release into the aquarium. Discard the water in bucket - DO NOT place that water into aquarium.

Like cichlids, if you foated bag then released fish into tank and along with bag water - This will do it as far as sudden loss.
 
Hi Bryce,
Sydney Water uses Chlorine and Chloramines in our water supply.
All my test show next to zero Chlorines..0.025
I agree, there has to some sort of toxin in this tank....I watched an Orange Shoulder tang that survived for maybe one week... feeding...swimming quite happily...and in front of my lying eyes suddenly took a spasm...similar to an Epilectic Fit in humans.
Spiralled around and headed straight for the deck....dead and discolored in about 30 mins.
Same for the Bicolour Angel.....within 2 hours of introducing him.
Salt was standard issue rock salt.
Have used Prime and Ammo Lock...Beneficial Bacteria.....etc.
Tank has just cycled for 10 days...milky for while due i think to Bacterial Bloom..... but nice and clear....looking good....
Alas the 2 test dummies lasted only hours.
They seemed to hunker down as soon as they were introduced.
Correct me if I am wrong.....Activated Charcoal will strip out Chlorine/Chloramine.....it reduces any trace elements, maybe not as well as an RO unit, but the remaning concentrations of trace elements are below danger levels for fish...??
I have had more bad Karma with this tank in 10 weeks..than I have in decades of keeping Cichlids.
hi welcome ,how are you acclimating these fish,sudden death like that imo some chem in water,possible loose elec current,fill us in were here to help
Hi,
Re residual electrical current.
If there was some voltage shorting out to the water it would have to be grounded for the current to flow. Ie: put your hand in the tank you would know...zapped instantly.
I am familiar with Electricity...I respect it...lol
I run an RCD on the power supply.
The only items drawing 240v are the sump pump and the pump for the Protein Skimmer.
Lighting is all 12v Leads.
If the tank is not earthen, how can the fish receive an electrical shock...??
Thanks for your help
Cheers
 
Downfall #1 was tap water. Additionally, PH seems a bit high bringing the question - What test kit(s) are you using?
The likelihood: Please describe your acclimation (steps you took to introduce them)
I think acclimation may be the issue and curious what you did before introducing them into tank

Having cichlids, the process differs. Rather than bag, I recommend floating bag(s) for 20 mins and releasing fish into a CLEAN Bucket. Then each 15 minutes, add a cup of water to bucket 6X (1.5 - 2 hrs, then catch the fish into the cup instead of net and release into the aquarium. Discard the water in bucket - DO NOT place that water into aquarium.

Like cichlids, if you foated bag then released fish into tank and along with bag water - This will do it as far as sudden loss.
Hi,
Normally I add about 25% tank water to the bagged fish...float for 30 mins......drain 25% water out of the bag...top it up and continue floating bag in tank for another maybe 30 mins. (Same as I've done for my Cichlids for a long time with no drama or losses...some are years old and very healthy.)....

Then release fish and remaining bagged water into tank. Naturally I assume the Aquarium Shop's water is good. All test kits are API.
9 in 1 Strip Test Kit...KH Test Kit
Quality Refractometer
I'm out of Ideas
Cheers
 
The timescales to have a tank that is mature and ready for stock seems very short. I assume the ‘0’ measurements have been attained following a cycling of the tank?
 
Salt was standard issue rock salt.

Hi Ray,

welcome to R2R. Sorry for all your challenges, but I’m sure we can help you sort it all out.

Tell me more about the statement above. Are you not using salt specifically for marine aquaria?
 
Hi Ray,

welcome to R2R. Sorry for all your challenges, but I’m sure we can help you sort it all out.

Tell me more about the statement above. Are you not using salt specifically for marine aquaria?
This.....are you not using proper aquarium salt?
 
Things wrong with this.
1. Tap water in use
2. Used Rock salt, not aquarium salt.

Your fish shop could have chemicals in the water that should NEVER go into your aquarium. Copper is a normal thing fish shops have in their water. Copper in your Aquarium will kill future additions like corals. You’re contaminating your system with their water. Nuff said.

OP, time to rethink your processes. The fish dying so fast really should tell you what your doing is wrong. Marine fish are more delicate than your fresh water fish ever where.

I would empty the system, and wait till you can use RODI water with true aquarium salt. Run it through a proper cycle and then add fish.
 
If you are using Pool Salt, that would be the problem. I’m guessing pool salt because you wrote “ool Salt”
I would pick up some Instant Ocean or other marine aquarium salt and change all the water.
 
Your problems are highlighted in yellow.

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Yeah, use RODI water and use marine salt. I use instant ocean myself
 
As I suspected. . . acclimation and bag water in tank. This will always do it for fish loss. I described best method for you. Be sure to change up your acclimation.
Take a water sample to a tursted LFS and have them test all parameters for you so you know tank status and what changes you need to make.
 

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