Fish dying need help please

[Lavey29]

The usual recommendation is to remove all the fish, treat them, etc. And leave your tank fallow for the recommended time periods. Especially since one fish is showing symptoms, and since these diseases can rapidly take over. Not every fish will die 'at the same time'. As to whether you should treat asymptomatic fish with formaldehyde - I'll leave that to the experts (I might not) - but I would use copper as directed, making sure the fish you're putting into copper will tolerate it. Hopefully the others will weigh back in.

The LFS said all the white looking stuff On my rocks is brook to. Is this accurate? I thought it was algae bleaching out because my light intensity went up for the first time in 3 months.

 

[MnFish1]

The LFS said all the white looking stuff On my rocks is brook to. Is this accurate? I thought it was algae bleaching out because my light intensity went up for the first time in 3 months.

Brooklynella is a parasite. It does not affect rock as far as I have ever heard. Second - algae doesn't usually 'bleach' with increased light. Third - its extremely difficult to see what actual 'colors' of things are under the blue light. My guess is that you have some kind of different algae growing - that is more fluorescent? In any case - I would focus on your fish

 

[vetteguy53081]

Sorry for losses and I read through thread. Looking at pics , i side with Brooklynella. If your LFS said Brook is growing on the rocks, find a different store. Bacteria will grow on rocks but not brook. To help determine what you have and to confirm brook, here is some info on brook-
At the onset, you may have seen your fish scrape up against objects, rapid respiration developing, and fish often gasping for air at the surface as the gills become clogged with mucus. Very quickly the fish will become lethargic, refuse to eat, and its colors will fade. The most noticeable symptom of Brooklynella is the heavy amount of slime that is produced by a fish that has contracted this parasite. As the disease progresses, a thick whitish mucus covers the body often confused with ich. This will usually start at the head and spread outward across the entire body. Skin lesions appear and it is not uncommon for signs of secondary bacterial infections.
Typical treatment is a standard formalin solution is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container. Initially, all fish are given a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration, followed by continued treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank (QT). Of course, the longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this disease.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief may be provided by giving fish a FW bath or dip. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank.

 

[Lavey29]

Brooklynella is a parasite. It does not affect rock as far as I have ever heard. Second - algae doesn't usually 'bleach' with increased light. Third - its extremely difficult to see what actual 'colors' of things are under the blue light. My guess is that you have some kind of different algae growing - that is more fluorescent? In any case - I would focus on your fish

Ok was just wondering if I should remove that rock but guess not needed...thanks

 

[Lavey29]

Sorry for losses and I read through thread. Looking at pics , i side with Brooklynella. If your LFS said Brook is growing on the rocks, find a different store. Bacteria will grow on rocks but not brook. To help determine what you have and to confirm brook, here is some info on brook-
At the onset, you may have seen your fish scrape up against objects, rapid respiration developing, and fish often gasping for air at the surface as the gills become clogged with mucus. Very quickly the fish will become lethargic, refuse to eat, and its colors will fade. The most noticeable symptom of Brooklynella is the heavy amount of slime that is produced by a fish that has contracted this parasite. As the disease progresses, a thick whitish mucus covers the body often confused with ich. This will usually start at the head and spread outward across the entire body. Skin lesions appear and it is not uncommon for signs of secondary bacterial infections.
Typical treatment is a standard formalin solution is mixed with either fresh or saltwater in a separate treatment container. Initially, all fish are given a quick dip in the formalin at a higher concentration, followed by continued treatment in a prolonged bath of formalin at a lower concentration in a quarantine tank (QT). Of course, the longer the fish are exposed to the formalin treatment, the more effective it will be at eliminating this disease.
If a formalin solution is not available for immediate use, temporary relief may be provided by giving fish a FW bath or dip. Even though this treatment will not cure the disease, it can help to remove some of the parasites, as well as reduce the amount of mucus in the gills to assist with respiration problems.
Treatment is best done in a QT tank.

I have only seen the described symptoms in one fish that died. The others appeared normal but dead over night. The gramma is now on deaths door but no obvious external symptoms. Just hiding and not eating. He will pass sometime today it appears.

 

[Lavey29]

Gramma is no where to be found now so he is probably dead in a rock hole unretrieveable so that will probably cause an ammonia spike no doubt.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Gramma is no where to be found now so he is probably dead in a rock hole unretrieveable so that will probably cause an ammonia spike no doubt.

Eating ?
Rapid breathing?
listless and lethargic ?

 

[Idoc]

Hi - agree with the recommendations for copper/formaldehyde, etc - Curious - where does the 76 day fallow period for velvet come from?

I believe velvet might actually be less fallow days than 76... which is for ich. I just can't recall exactly the number of days off the top of my head. 72-76 days is a catch all.

 

[Idoc]

Only 4 fish left now. 3 of the 4 are not displaying any symptoms and acting normal. The gramma has stopped eating and hides all day for the past 24 hours. Not sure if this is disease or wrasse stress related. Should you still try and qt a fish that hasn't shown obvious illness removing him from the DT or will that just compound the stress issues?

Personally, concern over stressing the fish would be very low on the issues your are encountering. If you don't treat all fish and go fallow, you're just keeping the issue going to pop up again over time.

 

[Lavey29]

Eating ?
Rapid breathing?
listless and lethargic ?

Not eating, hasn't been out all day pretty sure dead in a rock hole now.

 

[Lavey29]

Personally, concern over stressing the fish would be very low on the issues your are encountering. If you don't treat all fish and go fallow, you're just keeping the issue going to pop up again over time.

I agree, by the way things are going there will only be one fish left after today and I'm sure he will succumb in short order then the fallow period will begin I guess albeit reluctantly and sad.

 

[vetteguy53081]

What test kits are you using ?
Last time you did a water change ?

 

[Lavey29]

What test kits are you using ?
Last time you did a water change ?

Hanna test for everything but nitrate which is red sea. I don't have a magnesium test yet. I do weekly 20% water changes which was done Friday. Salinity at 1.025, calcium 436, nitrate 10 to 20, phosphate .15 after coral food though, ammonia 0, alk was 10 after water change though usually around 9.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Nitrate up but not the answer. Ammonia at zero for a newer tank unusual
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?

 

[BlenniesAndTangs]

Yea, my clown died today so 3 fish dead in 3 days is very upsetting for me and sad. I am sure the couple remaining fish will be dead shortly and there is essentially nothing I can do to prevent it currently. I have had freshwater tanks with success for many years but am new to reef tanks. Perhaps this hobby isn't for me and I need to stop trying.

I am also new to reefing ever since December 2020 I started.

 

[Lavey29]

Nitrate up but not the answer. Ammonia at zero for a newer tank unusual
Are you using RODI water or tap water from the faucet ?

I use my own RODI water for top off and Red Sea coral pro salt mix. I really seeded the tank with bacteria and copepods, The fish would eat pods all day down current. There was like 3 to 4 weeks between adding fish and I didn't turn my lights on till like the 2.5 month part when I was getting ready to add my first corals. I run Maxout and Purigen in a media cup and a filter sock. I have an oversized Eshopps skimmer and keep rock rubble and marine pure in my sump.

I am concerned about an ammonia spike now killing the corals and the inverts because I have a lot of rock caves and these fish are going deeply hidden to die now. I know the gramma is dead but I cant find his body in the tank. Fairy Wrasse is hiding also. Strangely the last clown which looked ok last night has a lesion near is gill now so I am sure his time is coming soon also.

I do notice my snails and other inverts seem very sluggish today also? Any thoughts on that?

 

[Lavey29]

Anyone have any thoughts why my inverts went lethargic now in the tank while the other catastrophic event is unfolding?

Would a cupful of prime make them lethargic? Corals were not very active either today.

 

[Idoc]

Anyone have any thoughts why my inverts went lethargic now in the tank while the other catastrophic event is unfolding?

Would a cupful of prime make them lethargic? Corals were not very active either today.

Probably best to do an entire water parameter check again to ensure nothing is going out of whack... ammonia, ph, nitrates, temp, salinity, alkalinity, etc...

The missing fish could surprise you one day. If you don't detect ammonia, then the fish are still alive. Getting them out and treating them is critical.

 

[Lavey29]

Probably best to do an entire water parameter check again to ensure nothing is going out of whack... ammonia, ph, nitrates, temp, salinity, alkalinity, etc...

The missing fish could surprise you one day. If you don't detect ammonia, then the fish are still alive. Getting them out and treating them is critical.

I think the fish are dead unfortunately. I anticipate an ammonia spike at some point. Hopefully it is manageable and doesn't kill the few corals I have. Hopefully I can find the fish first. I was at soccer with my older daughter and my 11 year old called me Saturday crying when she saw the first fish dead. Hearing her crying and sad bothers me tremendously.

I have been checking water multiple times and will do another water change tomorrow.

 

[Lavey29]

Found the dead gramma today. Second clown covered in brook now but can't catch him. Should be dead by tomorrow. Fairy wrasse not eating and hiding. He will be gone in a day or two that leaves the yellow wrasse who is flashing bad now.