Fish Dying off, no clue why
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4FordFamily
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Aptly described. It does have its parallels I was thinking this earlier before I got caught up in something else.
mcarroll
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+1 Metal and saltwater animals don't mix well.
This is my vote for both the problem and the fix.
The clamp part isn't the problem as it's probably stainless...the problem is the screw assembly. Unless you really paid top dollar for your clamp, that part appears to be regular zinc-coated junk-metal (or similar) and dissolves readily into seawater. (I've had this happen even above the water line AND seen it happen to numerous others. Kinda BS they can put "stainless steel" on the package with no qualification.
Stray voltage wasn't tested for, so could have been a problem too prior to the addition of the grounding probe.
Still, curious the shrimps are surviving...but that happens from time to time, with inverts even surviving monitored copper treatments.
Unless new evidence is presented, I'm calling this case closed:
- No disease found.
- Metal added to tank; removed.
- Any possible voltage in tank; removed.
I'm still thinking Marine Velvet. Either way I'll get this fixed. I hope lolThis is my vote for both the problem and the fix.
The clamp part isn't the problem as it's probably stainless...the problem is the screw assembly. Unless you really paid top dollar for your clamp, that part appears to be regular zinc-coated junk-metal (or similar) and dissolves readily into seawater. (I've had this happen even above the water line AND seen it happen to numerous others. Kinda BS they can put "stainless steel" on the package with no qualification.
Stray voltage wasn't tested for, so could have been a problem too prior to the addition of the grounding probe.
Still, curious the shrimps are surviving...but that happens from time to time, with inverts even surviving monitored copper treatments.
Unless new evidence is presented, I'm calling this case closed:
- No disease found.
- Metal added to tank; removed.
- Any possible voltage in tank; removed.
If it's only flukes, you can actually just treat the DT with Prazipro.
Prazipro (praziquantel): Treats flukes, black ich, and some internal parasites (worms).
How To Treat - In either a quarantine or display tank, dose Prazipro at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 20 gallons of water. DO NOT OVERDOSE (especially with wrasses), try not to mix with other medications (for various reasons), and provide additional gas exchange while treating with Prazi. Wait 5-7 days, do a 20-25% water change and then repeat dosage. The reason for the second dose is to eradicate the “next generation” of worms before they can lay eggs of their own. Because while Prazi does kill worms, it doesn’t eliminate any eggs they might leave behind.
Prazipro is generally considered reef safe, although it may kill any tube worms/feathers dusters you have. It may also eradicate bristle worms. If you have mass quantities of these, the resulting die-off can lead to an ammonia spike. After treatment is done, activated carbon may be used to remove any residuals (if you need to use a different medication next). If using a protein skimmer post-treatment, be advised that it will “over skim” for at least a couple of weeks.
Pros - Reef safe, effective dewormer that is relatively gentle on most fish.
Cons/Side Effects - Mild appetite suppression, moderate oxygen depletion, wrasses are sensitive to overdosing.
Prazipro (praziquantel): Treats flukes, black ich, and some internal parasites (worms).
How To Treat - In either a quarantine or display tank, dose Prazipro at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 20 gallons of water. DO NOT OVERDOSE (especially with wrasses), try not to mix with other medications (for various reasons), and provide additional gas exchange while treating with Prazi. Wait 5-7 days, do a 20-25% water change and then repeat dosage. The reason for the second dose is to eradicate the “next generation” of worms before they can lay eggs of their own. Because while Prazi does kill worms, it doesn’t eliminate any eggs they might leave behind.
Prazipro is generally considered reef safe, although it may kill any tube worms/feathers dusters you have. It may also eradicate bristle worms. If you have mass quantities of these, the resulting die-off can lead to an ammonia spike. After treatment is done, activated carbon may be used to remove any residuals (if you need to use a different medication next). If using a protein skimmer post-treatment, be advised that it will “over skim” for at least a couple of weeks.
Pros - Reef safe, effective dewormer that is relatively gentle on most fish.
Cons/Side Effects - Mild appetite suppression, moderate oxygen depletion, wrasses are sensitive to overdosing.
