Fish list and qt procedures

[ViciousDlishus]

My build thread https://www.reef2reef.com/index.php?threads/322220/

Here is what I'm currently thinking for my new tank. Looking for comments on fish listed, order to add and anything I haven't thought of!

Midas blenny
Purple tilefish
White Tail Bristletooth or similar Ctenochaetus
Copperband butterfly
Hawkfish (type?) flame, long nose, geometric pygmy or falco
Clown (type?) gold stripe maroon, lightning maroon, Darwin or Picasso (if I do either maroon it will be a single fish others I would go for a pair)
Angel (type?) African flameback, lemonpeel, eible, flame or rusty (pick two)
Male lyretail
Wrasse (type?) mystery, leopard, Banana (looking for two or three total and open to suggestions)

I'll be adding my cuc to the main display once cycle is complete. Planning on leaving it fallow for 76 days following.

Qt procedure will start with ttm method using 2 x 10 gallon tanks. Bubble filter, heater, ammonia badge and pvc for hiding spots.

Prazipro for internal parasites during ttm.

After ttm move to a grow out tank. Will a 20 long work or should I go bigger. I won't have many fish in grow out at once as I'm planning on only doing one fish at a time unless I get a clown pair.

Anything else I've missed?

 

[ViciousDlishus]

And... Posted in wrong subsection... Please move.

 

[Maritimer]

I don't have the ability to move a thread - but can comment on fish selection & QT . . .

Hawkfish can be murder (literally) on shrimp, though I'm given to understand that flame hawks are somewhat less murderous, and geometric pygmies are probably too small to take on much more than a mysid or half-grown sexy shrimp.

I tend to think that more, smaller fish - in social groups, if possible - are more interesting than fewer, larger fish. For that reason, I'd more likely go for the ocellaris / percula types over a maroon clown.

Two dwarf angels in that tank can be done - but with caution! I've got a flame and coral beauty in the same tank. The flame chases the CB, but rarely for any distance, and I don't think he's ever caught her. (She's a perpetual motion machine!)

I've not kept mystery wrasses, but have heard they can be aggressive. By "banana wrasse" do you mean the "yellow 'coris'" (Halichoeres chrysus) or the larger Thalassoma variety? I don't think the Thalassoma's generally considered a good candidate for a reef, but the Halichoeres is one of the best. Most flasher wrasses and many fairy wrasses would also be good choices.

Your QT protocol sounds good, with one note - Prazi-Pro is great stuff for external flukes (which are pretty common), but less great for internal parasites. For internals, you'll want Metroplex, which can be bound to food with Seachem Focus, and used to target bugs inside the fish. (One tablespoon food, one Seachem measure of Metro / one Seachem measure of Focus.)

~Bruce

P.S. - Your setup looks pretty sweet!

 

[leahfiish]

IMO adding all of your cleanup crew at once is not the way to go, as it's easy to add too little or too many, and then if you have to add more your fallow is pointless.
I think instead just use another tank to qt them and corals. I don't think there's much point in qting inverts and fish but not corals.
Add the tang last for sure.
I can't easily find your tank volume, it looks like about 75g?
For the wrasses I would do a mix of fairies and flashers. Some of my favorites are mccosker's flasher, diamond tail flasher (rare), hooded fairy wrasse, and clown fairy wrasse (c. solorensis).

 

[ViciousDlishus]

Thanks for the comments maritime! Hopefully I can figure out this issue I'm having with the stand doors and upload some more photos to my build thread.

Maybe the smaller hawk or less destructive flame would be a better option. I love how they perch and the activity they bring to a tank.

I'll look into the Wrasses a little further.

My last tank had a couple angels so I'm not scared to test the waters when it comes to compatibility orroll the dice with coral nipping.

Looking to add a mix of fish that will take up all areas of the tank

Would one be able to stack metroplex and praxis pro at the same time, alternate between swaps or is one more commonly used that the other? Should both be used as preventative prior to noticing signs?

 

[4FordFamily]

I would skip the thalamossa (banana wrasse) in a reef. I would also skip it because it's a pretty aggressive wrasse towards more fragile wrasse like leopards.

I find flame hawks to be mostly harmless to clean up crew.

You'd be better off with three different dwarf angels. I wouldn't risk two, it doesn't typically work out. It's possible, but less likely.

 

[ViciousDlishus]

IMO adding all of your cleanup crew at once is not the way to go, as it's easy to add too little or too many, and then if you have to add more your fallow is pointless.
I think instead just use another tank to qt them and corals. I don't think there's much point in qting inverts and fish but not corals.
Add the tang last for sure.
I can't easily find your tank volume, it looks like about 75g?
For the wrasses I would do a mix of fairies and flashers. Some of my favorites are mccosker's flasher, diamond tail flasher (rare), hooded fairy wrasse, and clown fairy wrasse (c. solorensis).

Hey leahfiish, it's around 90gal total water volume probably closer to 100 when I get my fuge and equipment running.

I was gonna add the cuc as a sort of light crew to begin with. This is all dry rock so I won't have much for them to munch on. I guess my reasoning was I'll need a cuc before fish anyways to deal with new tank uglies.

Do you think the tank would be alright with just general maintenance and no cuc until the 76 days is up in a separate fallow tank?

I'm also planning on a coral and invert qt that will be fallow permanently. I will be throwing in a small group of cuc members and replace them every 76 days (as needed) so I'll always have stock to pull from.

 

[ViciousDlishus]

I would skip the thalamossa (banana wrasse) in a reef. I would also skip it because it's a pretty aggressive wrasse towards more fragile wrasse like leopards.

I find flame hawks to be mostly harmless to clean up crew.

You'd be better off with three different dwarf angels. I wouldn't risk two, it doesn't typically work out. It's possible, but less likely.

Now we're talking 4FordFamily! More angels more fun! Maybe I'll opt for a regular old yellow Wrasse, had one in the past and he was a model citizen and quite active.

 

[4FordFamily]

Now we're talking 4FordFamily! More angels more fun! Maybe I'll opt for a regular old yellow Wrasse, had one in the past and he was a model citizen and quite active.

I also recommend melanarus. They're a splash of green and pink/orange. They're great at removing pests, hardy as heck once established, and very underrated IMO

 

[4FordFamily]

In a 90 gal, 3 centroyge may be pushing it with a tang present. I'd probably stick to one or try two very different species and have lots of rockwork and hiding places. I missed that detail.

I tend to overstock a lot but I also have ridiculous nutrient export and lots of "plan B" for when stuff doesn't work out as planned.

 

[Maritimer]

Would one be able to stack metroplex and praxis pro at the same time, alternate between swaps or is one more commonly used that the other? Should both be used as preventative prior to noticing signs?

There's a medication out there by API called "General Cure", and guess what? It's a combination of Praziquantel (active ingredient in Prazi-Pro) and Metronidazole (active ingredient in MetroPlex). It can be either dosed into the water (takes a bit longer to dissolve than Prazi-Pro) for external parasites, or bound to food for internal ones. Many people dose for external flukes as a preventative.

~Bruce

 

[ViciousDlishus]

On a local forum Ive been told that the 10gal I was planning on using for TTM would be too small for a majority of these fish. What are the thoughts on this from r2r?

If this is the case I might be leaning towards getting a larger tank and forgoing the TTM and going with copper on all fish.

Comments on this potential process.

40 gallon tank w/ Aquaclear hob filter and powerhead.
Day 1 add fish
Day 3 dose Prazi pro if fish are doing well
Day 8 dose Prazi pro
Day 10 25% waterchange, then add 1/4 dose Copper Safe
Day 11 1/4 dose Copper Safe
Day 12 1/4 dose Copper Safe
Day 13 1/4 dose Copper Safe
Day 14-28 test copper and dose if needed
Day 29 50% waterchange and add carbon
Day 35 if no signs of disease fish go in display

 

[Humblefish]

On a local forum Ive been told that the 10gal I was planning on using for TTM would be too small for a majority of these fish. What are the thoughts on this from r2r?

If this is the case I might be leaning towards getting a larger tank and forgoing the TTM and going with copper on all fish.

Comments on this potential process.

40 gallon tank w/ Aquaclear hob filter and powerhead.
Day 1 add fish
Day 3 dose Prazi pro if fish are doing well
Day 8 dose Prazi pro
Day 10 25% waterchange, then add 1/4 dose Copper Safe
Day 11 1/4 dose Copper Safe
Day 12 1/4 dose Copper Safe
Day 13 1/4 dose Copper Safe
Day 14-28 test copper and dose if needed
Day 29 50% waterchange and add carbon
Day 35 if no signs of disease fish go in display

Two 10 gallons would be fine for TTM if you mixed a medium sized fish with a small fish. And didn't push it more than that at once.

Your 40 gallon QT plan looks good too, except you need to treat with copper for 30 full days.

 

[ViciousDlishus]

Two 10 gallons would be fine for TTM if you mixed a medium sized fish with a small fish. And didn't push it more than that at once.

Your 40 gallon QT plan looks good too, except you need to treat with copper for 30 full days.

Thanks humblefish. I was planning on only one fish at a time in the 10 gallons.

I'll amend that schedule to 40 days to get the full 30 with copper.

Is one method better, easier or more successful than the other?

 

[Humblefish]

Is one method better, easier or more successful than the other?

TTM is more work, but also has a higher success rate IME.

However, the recent prevalence of Marine Velvet Disease has made the use of copper or CP almost mandatory in QT.