Fish types for an ich management tank

[USMA36]

I have a 4’ 90 with a melanarus, mag foxface, 2 oc clowns, Diamond gobi, 2 blue green chromis, a yasha gobi, and 2 pj cardinals. I recently lost my yellow eyed kole tang and coral beauty to ich. The rest of my fish seem healthy. My foxface gets a spot every now and again but he’s a pig and always fights it off. I know my best bet is full on quarantine and going fallow, but that’s not an option right now. I’d have to remove all rock and coral to get all the fish out. I don’t want to damage my coral. Even then I still don’t think I’d catch my yasha since he lives in the rock. Anyway I have decided to go with management instead of eradication. I want to add more ich resistant fish. Can I add a Yellow Coris Wrasse when I already have the melanarus? Are there other wrasses I could keep together with the melanarus?? What other fish would be good options for an ich management tank?

 

[dylana407]

If I remember correctly, mandarin is resistant to ich. But it comes with feeding difficulty.

 

[Jesterrace]

Mandarinfish are by far the most ich resistant (since they have a slimecoat instead of scales) but as mentioned unless you have lots of live rock with a well established population of copepods it's going to starve to death (even if it's captive bred and eats other foods). A Wrasse would be the next best option (Fairy would be best since you already have a Melanurus Wrasse).

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

What folks generally don’t understand about ick management is , you still quarantine. It’s just non medicated.
Basically a skip cycled tank with live rock. Old tank water from a wc , live rock from the sump. Powerhead. Maybe a splash of bacteria for good measure.

This is also how you skip cycle an emergency hospital tank , transfer tanks , or deal with a tank failure.

Takes a few weeks , use dewormer. Lessens stress on the fish. Particulary important as most parasites use stress as a chemical signal to start eating.
It also allows time to see if the fish will make it at all , or if it has a horrible bug like velvet. Better to let it go in the qt than wreak havoc in the DT.

Fish from copper or a mild lfs copper wall have a compromised immune system. The qt allows time to heal and recover the immune system.

The use of an acclimation box when adding fish to the DT is also Immensely helpful.
Fish smell other fish. Territory and aggression can start.
When you are close to time to add the fish you take DT water and add it to the qt for this reason.

Ick management is not a dump and hope.

There are no ick resistant fish.
Esp when you consider the specific health of the animal and method of adding to the display.

Mandarins btw, are resistant becuse they are poisonous. A thin slime coat on an unhealthy specimen will allow predation. By other fish and parasites.