Fish with ick

kenziejlooft

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I’ve got a blue powder tang and I put it in my tank and I saw it had ick and now pretty much all my fish have ick will Ick-x cure the ick how long can they live with ick
 
Ick x cure comes in different preparations. I do not believe it can work for ick. Copper would be most available and established in a hospital tank, simultaneously going fallow for 76 days. Needs ammonia monitoring, copper monitoring kit, too.
But first: what kind of tank are you running. Pictures to underline diagnosis. Parameter?
 
Kick ick, Ick X, IckBGon, will not fix anything.
I’d stick with the tried and true methods which are 3.
Copper based, hypo salinity, or two tank method.
Ick is considered to be a slower killer as fish death is counterproductive to its life cycle and its population.

Your DT goes without fish for 70ish days, this will ensure you eradicate them from your DT, by depriving them of the one thing they must have to survive....fish.
 
Kick ick, Ick X, IckBGon, will not fix anything.
I’d stick with the tried and true methods which are 3.
Copper based, hypo salinity, or two tank method.
Ick is considered to be a slower killer as fish death is counterproductive to its life cycle and its population.

Your DT goes without fish for 70ish days, this will ensure you eradicate them from your DT, by depriving them of the one thing they must have to survive....fish.
Well said. I would add the unavailable hydroxychloroquine. But without pictures I do not feel comfortable to rule out velvet.
 
Worried about treating with copper scared I am going to kill them when you treat with it can you use api copper test
 

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they will die, and future fish as well, if you do anything other than fallow this tank, treat the fish, put back clean, and only insert fallowed hardscapes for the life of the reef. no doser, no food, no UV will help you skirt this. fish=die see the fish disease forum


on the top, under most important stickies for saving fish, what's listed is fallow and qt approaches. not bottled items or meds in tank, without running the full fallow companion mode.
 
they will die, and future fish as well, if you do anything other than fallow this tank, treat the fish, put back clean, and only insert fallowed hardscapes for the life of the reef. no doser, no food, no UV will help you skirt this. fish=die see the fish disease forum


on the top, under most important stickies for saving fish, what's listed is fallow and qt approaches. not bottled items or meds in tank, without running the full fallow companion mode.
That is not true. There are many people that have had ICH in their tanks and maintain it perfectly fine without medication, or hospital tanks or QT. Ask @Paul B about this...

On a side note: It does not look like ICH as far as I can tell from the pictures. Looks more like Flukes to me, but I could be wrong. Better to post this in the fish disease forum and let the experts tackle this one.

Good luck!
 
My puffers have also been scratching themselves and my gang has been darting
 

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My puffers have also been scratching themselves and my gang has been darting
Yeah, those pictures do look more like ICH, especially on the fins of the Puffer. Again, I would recommend posting in the Fish Disease forum and tagging @Humblefish @4FordFamily and the Reef Squad to get expert advise.
 
if we read here, see how the Paul B method isn't used to save fish?

not saying it doesn't work on his tank, its just directly missing as a work source copy-able here.


because it takes a fifty year old reef to make his method




everyone has an approach for disease control.

99.999999999% do not come from working fixes in work threads. they're simply a report of how someone currently does not have disease.


but taking tanks that already have disease and turning them around?


see this forum above. it is hard to make disease go away by purposefully skipping fallow preps.
 
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if we read here, see how the Paul B method isn't used to save fish?

not saying it doesn't work on his tank, its just directly missing as a work source copy-able here.


because it takes a fifty year old reef to make his method, that could be a big deal in it




everyone has an approach for disease control.

99.999999999% do not come from working fixes in work threads. they're simply a report of how someone currently does not have disease.


but taking tanks that already have disease and turning them around?


for what happens in real life, see this forum. it is hard to make disease go away by purposefully skipping fallow preps.
But guaranteeing that the fish will die and future fish as well unless he does FALLOW and treat the fish is wrong. That's all I am saying...and that is all I will say. ;Happy
 
So yes, I see spots on the fins of the box fish, but can not make out similar on the PB. I am not sure if there could be a dusting on the PB.
I myself believe that a tank is best run without parasites. One can not rely on immunity, especially if one is unaware about prior exposure.
let’s not kid ourselves 1 parasite makes 200, 200 parasites make 40000. In a glass box a tragedy of death, in the ocean just diluted.
Anyways suggest to get an opinion from the big guns.
 
My puffers have also been scratching themselves and my gang has been darting
That could be ich, I see ich but the spots are small enough on some that velvet could be the culprit. If it grows (number of spots) in the next 2-4 days then it’s likely velvet as ich takes longer and has larger spots.

I’d remove and treat in copper or CP either way, friend. CP is best for puffers but not very available right now.
 
Can I use copper safe :( that’s what I got
Yes. Pleas get a copper test kit. The one that tests your copper. Ammonia testing is important. Please do not put anything porous is the hospital tank as it will absorb and lower copper concentration. Copper must be effective at all times during therapy or the clock restarts. There must be no fish in display left for 74 days. Tank and hospital tank should be more than 10 ft apart. If display water makes into hospital tank the clock on the hospital tank restarts. Good luck. Thanks for trusting the big boys (no I am not one of those big boys).
 
Yes. Pleas get a copper test kit. The one that tests your copper. Ammonia testing is important. Please do not put anything porous is the hospital tank as it will absorb and lower copper concentration. Copper must be effective at all times during therapy or the clock restarts. There must be no fish in display left for 74 days. Tank and hospital tank should be more than 10 ft apart. If display water makes into hospital tank the clock on the hospital tank restarts. Good luck. Thanks for trusting the big boys (no I am not one of those big boys).
I have the api one should I add the 5ml each day till I get to 2ppm or add it over a couple of hours
 

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