Fish with spots dilemma

Shufflepig

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Recently bought used 120 gallon tank. Came with 30 pounds live rock, a 3” clown trigger (seemingly well behaved) , 3” clarkii clown, 1” percula clown. Discarded all old substrate, cleaned everything, reset up the tank with new substrate, reused the live rock, added 60 pounds of aquacultured live rock, and let the tank run a week while fish were in QT tank. Have had fish in DT 4 weeks and were doing great but this morning Perc clown has several salt like spits on body. Still acting perfectly normal, no flashing, eating well. Not sure where it came from. Maybe the old live rock? My dilemma.... currently have flame angel and lawnmower blenny in QT tank. Just finished prophylactic Prazipro 2nd treatment and was going to start prophylactic chloroquine phosphate treatment today. Should I move the clownfish to the QT and treat with CP or leave him in DT and see how he does? Not sure a good idea to move diseased fish in with 2 healthy QT fish for treatment? Water parameters in DT tank are good. Ammonia and nitrite 0. Nitrate less than 5. pH 8.2. Temp 78. Sorry this is so long. Any advice/opinions would be appreciated. Thank you
 
Do you have any pictures of the fish in question? How small is your sand, could be sand particles stuck to them. Probably best bet would be to move them to qt just in case
 
Do you have any pictures of the fish in question? How small is your sand, could be sand particles stuck to them. Probably best bet would be to move them to qt just in case


Sand is fine but definitely not sand ( wish it was). Do you think it’s ok to put him in with the other 2 new fish? Only have one QT. Was starting CP today anyway
 
Sand is fine but definitely not sand ( wish it was). Do you think it’s ok to put him in with the other 2 new fish? Only have one QT. Was starting CP today anyway
If you're starting copper treatment today anyway, might as well. That way if it is ich or some other parasite you can wipe it out right away. If it was ich make sure to let the display tank sit fallow for a minimum of 76 days so it all dies off.
 
If you're starting copper treatment today anyway, might as well. That way if it is ich or some other parasite you can wipe it out right away. If it was ich make sure to let the display tank sit fallow for a minimum of 76 days so it all dies off.


Ok. Thanks. Would love to know why it shows up 4 weeks after starting the tank with absolutely no new additions??
 
Ok. Thanks. Would love to know why it shows up 4 weeks after starting the tank with absolutely no new additions??
Could be for a variety of different reasons. Have you been messing with the tank alot? Usually what happens is the fish's immune system is strong enough to fight it off, but a stressful event (such as a tank transfer) stresses them out and weakens their immune system allowing the parasite to take over.
 
No just routine maintenance. Nothing stressful that I can think of but I guess stress to a fish very different than stress for us!!
 
Because it is a clownfish, first thoughts are Brooklynella. The disease can lay dormant in a carrier fish for months. And then some stressor event brings it back. Here's Humblefish's treatment advisory along with some pictures of "early" and "advanced" views of Brook. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brooklynella.247938/#post-2913287
 
1AD9D783-1846-4E38-9061-0D877A180ACB.jpeg
8123C4F7-D60C-4462-8E9C-14C4EA733B7D.jpeg
Best pics I could get
 
1AD9D783-1846-4E38-9061-0D877A180ACB.jpeg
8123C4F7-D60C-4462-8E9C-14C4EA733B7D.jpeg
Best pics I could get
Because it is a clownfish, first thoughts are Brooklynella. The disease can lay dormant in a carrier fish for months. And then some stressor event brings it back. Here's Humblefish's treatment advisory along with some pictures of "early" and "advanced" views of Brook. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/brooklynella.247938/#post-2913287

I’m concerned now about puting her in to QT and exposing seemingly healthy fish to Brook especially since chloroquine would not be effective against Brook
 
And then the tank where the clown has been swimming will need to go fallow for 6 weeks to starve out the parasite. But many have used CP for Brook and have been successful.
 
From Humblefish's Treatment Advisory:

Chloroquine phosphate: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella hostilis & Uronema marinum.

How To Treat - Chloroquine phosphate (CP) is a “new drug” that actually was widely used to control external protozoa in saltwater aquariums back in the 70s & 80s. It was even used in some aquarium medications sold at LFS. Nowadays CP requires a prescription to purchase legitimately, making it more difficult to obtain. Fast forward to today and thanks to the power of the Internet, CP has come roaring back! The biggest obstacle to overcome is obtaining pharmaceutical grade 99% pure CP. I cannot stress the importance of this enough. Do not buy it from some guy on eBay or even an online vendor. The only way to be sure you are getting 99% pure CP is to get your vet to write you a prescription that can then be filled at a local pharmacy.

CP is a “one and done” medication, meaning you dose once and that’s it. There are no test kits for CP, so it’s important that you dose accurately using a digital scale. Also, don’t forget to dose any replacement water (from water changes, but not top off) with CP. The dosage rates are as follows:
  • Prophylactic treatment is 40 mg per gallon.
  • Active infections (visible symptoms present) is 60mg/gal.
  • For Uronema marinum and really bad infestations, you can dose up to 80mg/gal.
As you can see, there is quite a bit of wiggle room between the minimum & maximum dosage. Practically speaking, 40mg/gal will treat all external protozoa issues… it’s just that the higher dosages may get the job done a little faster. Treatment lasts 30 consecutive days, and no carbon, UV, etc. may be used during this time (although it can be used later when you wish to remove the medication from the water). A little quirk about CP is that it is light sensitive, so you cannot use a light on the aquarium while treating. However, this does not mean your fish have to remain in total darkness; ambient lighting (say, from a window across the room) is fine. CP is NOT reef safe. In addition to killing your corals, it is a very strong algaecide.

Pros - Gentle on most fish (DO NOT USE with wrasses), a “one and done” medication that treats most external protozoa. CP is the closest thing there is to a “wonder drug” in our hobby.

Cons/Side Effects - Expensive, hard to get (requires a prescription), light sensitive; some evidence of appetite suppression with certain species (especially wrasses.) Attempts to feed CP laced food are usually not successful due to its bad metallic taste.
 
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From Humblefish's Treatment Advisory:

Chloroquine phosphate: Treats Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella hostilis & Uronema marinum.

How To Treat - Chloroquine phosphate (CP) is a “new drug” that actually was widely used to control external protozoa in saltwater aquariums back in the 70s & 80s. It was even used in some aquarium medications sold at LFS. Nowadays CP requires a prescription to purchase legitimately, making it more difficult to obtain. Fast forward to today and thanks to the power of the Internet, CP has come roaring back! The biggest obstacle to overcome is obtaining pharmaceutical grade 99% pure CP. I cannot stress the importance of this enough. Do not buy it from some guy on eBay or even an online vendor. The only way to be sure you are getting 99% pure CP is to get your vet to write you a prescription that can then be filled at a local pharmacy.

CP is a “one and done” medication, meaning you dose once and that’s it. There are no test kits for CP, so it’s important that you dose accurately using a digital scale. Also, don’t forget to dose any replacement water (from water changes, but not top off) with CP. The dosage rates are as follows:
  • Prophylactic treatment is 40 mg per gallon.
  • Active infections (visible symptoms present) is 60mg/gal.
  • For Uronema marinum and really bad infestations, you can dose up to 80mg/gal.
As you can see, there is quite a bit of wiggle room between the minimum & maximum dosage. Practically speaking, 40mg/gal will treat all external protozoa issues… it’s just that the higher dosages may get the job done a little faster. Treatment lasts 30 consecutive days, and no carbon, UV, etc. may be used during this time (although it can be used later when you wish to remove the medication from the water). A little quirk about CP is that it is light sensitive, so you cannot use a light on the aquarium while treating. However, this does not mean your fish have to remain in total darkness; ambient lighting (say, from a window across the room) is fine. CP is NOT reef safe. In addition to killing your corals, it is a very strong algaecide.

Pros - Gentle on most fish (DO NOT USE with wrasses), a “one and done” medication that treats most external protozoa. CP is the closest thing there is to a “wonder drug” in our hobby.

Cons/Side Effects - Expensive, hard to get (requires a prescription), light sensitive; some evidence of appetite suppression with certain species (especially wrasses.) Attempts to feed CP laced food are usually not successful due to its bad metallic taste.
Perfect. Great info. Really appreciate all your help!!
 
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