Fishless Cycling

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I was trying to find some ammonia but no Ace Hardware in my area, and Home Depot only had lemon ammonia. So I tried a Smart & Final and they had ammonia but under ingredients it says: ammonium hydroxide and surfactant. Can I use this to feed the bacteria? Or should I just order some online?

Also, what media should be in my hob filter during the cycle? Anything? This is going to be a QT, Should I even be running a filter?
 
I am aware you can let food or whatever rot in your tank in order to produce ammonia but that's not the method I'm going to be doing.
 
You don't want any surfactant. If I remember correctly that's like a soap. So shake the ammonia bottle and if there is fine bubbles it's bad. Do you have a Gordon food service in your area? It was the last place in town that I checked but they had it. Janitorial grade ammonia I think it was called. It worked great for me when I cycled my tank fishless.
 
I know it's out of fashion, but in olden times we'd put saltwater in a tank and maybe let it age a day or so, then add live rock. Even if you're starting with dry, I'd run it in the system (no lights, just by itself) for a few weeks and let the rock age.

Either way, as long as there were no signs of ammonia or nitrites in the water at that point, I'd start slowing introducing livestock.

  • Start small and work slowly and there's no danger to anything.
  • That usually means some snails first.
  • If you hate your snails, then maybe some crabs too. ;)
  • I'd add a coral or two if all looked well in a week or two.
  • I'd probably add another coral a week or two later, or maybe another invert like a shrimp so that I could start feeding the tank with a reasonable assumption that something would actually eat it. :)
  • A few weeks later, another coral or two.
  • And so forth, working your way up to your first fish.
  • By the time the first fish goes in, there's a healthy ecosystem for them, including some corals to clean up after everyone!!
  • I'd try not to add any more than one critter at a time and I'd try to keep the additions all well-spaced like this.
  • It makes sense to space fish additions out even farther.

That's how I'd do a "fish-less cycle". :D

If this was your first tank, or first reef, I might suggest longer waiting times in between steps as it's all new and you won't know what you're even looking for in terms of good or bad at first. :) (Take your time so you can look at everything. :) )
 
I know it's out of fashion, but in olden times we'd put saltwater in a tank and maybe let it age a day or so, then add live rock. Even if you're starting with dry, I'd run it in the system (no lights, just by itself) for a few weeks and let the rock age.

Either way, as long as there were no signs of ammonia or nitrites in the water at that point, I'd start slowing introducing livestock.

  • Start small and work slowly and there's no danger to anything.
  • That usually means some snails first.
  • If you hate your snails, then maybe some crabs too. ;)
  • I'd add a coral or two if all looked well in a week or two.
  • I'd probably add another coral a week or two later, or maybe another invert like a shrimp so that I could start feeding the tank with a reasonable assumption that something would actually eat it. :)
  • A few weeks later, another coral or two.
  • And so forth, working your way up to your first fish.
  • By the time the first fish goes in, there's a healthy ecosystem for them, including some corals to clean up after everyone!!
  • I'd try not to add any more than one critter at a time and I'd try to keep the additions all well-spaced like this.
  • It makes sense to space fish additions out even farther.

That's how I'd do a "fish-less cycle". :D

If this was your first tank, or first reef, I might suggest longer waiting times in between steps as it's all new and you won't know what you're even looking for in terms of good or bad at first. :) (Take your time so you can look at everything. :) )

This is just a little QT, no rock or sand. No permanent residents.
Throw a small deli shrimp in it and be done.

I want a higher degree of control over the situation than that. Plus I just don't like the idea of letting some food rot in my tank.
 
You don't want any surfactant. If I remember correctly that's like a soap. So shake the ammonia bottle and if there is fine bubbles it's bad. Do you have a Gordon food service in your area? It was the last place in town that I checked but they had it. Janitorial grade ammonia I think it was called. It worked great for me when I cycled my tank fishless.

Looks like I'll be ordering some online then. I tried a drug store and I don't have any walmarts close by. Never heard of a Gordons. Looks like placing an order online will be the quickest way.
 
Sorry I missed that detail!!!

Is the QT your only tank, or do you have an established display already?
 
Sorry I missed that detail!!!

Is the QT your only tank, or do you have an established display already?

Yea, I don't have any tanks setup right now. I just got a 135 drilled with sump but I'm planning on resealing it before putting it into service. And wanted to get this little 10 gallon setup for a QT.
 
Lol, ok you just like being difficult! How about using a rock from your DT, is that cycled?

Nope, I'm sure the ammonia is the way to go for me. Just having an issue finding ammonia without anything else in it.

Well, in a store anyways.


It's a 10 gallon tank, in it I put a Aquaclear 70, heater, powerhead. Filter doesn't have anything in it yet. It was used and I didn't want to reuse the filter media and sponge.
 
10G is such a tiny tank for QT if you're planning to do the marathon QT that often get's recommended around here.......any chance you can switch to a 20G or 40G? Keep the 10G for a hospital tank.

A QT tank for that long of a time period should really be operated much more like a display tank....maybe without the corals and inverts, but ideally with rock and even sand if called for by the fish in question. Lots of naturalistic decor. No bare-bones hospital tank look.

I know there's a lot more than one way to set up a system, so please take that all with a grain of salt. :)
 
FYI they don't sell pure ammonia anywhere around me either. I'd have to do the one drfost sells or one like it....
 
10G is such a tiny tank for QT if you're planning to do the marathon QT that often get's recommended around here.......any chance you can switch to a 20G or 40G? Keep the 10G for a hospital tank.

A QT tank for that long of a time period should really be operated much more like a display tank....maybe without the corals and inverts, but ideally with rock and even sand if called for by the fish in question. Lots of naturalistic decor. No bare-bones hospital tank look.

I know there's a lot more than one way to set up a system, so please take that all with a grain of salt. :)

I see. In my research most people and saying no rock or sand in a QT. But what you're saying makes sense to me. Would you run a hospital tank 24/7 or just when you need it?
 
is there a reason youre so against not just throwing some food in there to cycle your tank? easiest way to kick start your cycle. you could always throw some crabs in there to eat your "rotting food"
 
As-needed for the hospital. It's arguable whether you keep the QT/display running after you're done stocking your main tank.....judgement call. :)

60G would be an amazing QT!! If it can be at least 10' from the main display, that would make it a perfect QT.

(If there's another space that's 10' from either display, then that's a great place for the hospital tank.)

I would make the QT/display as complete and naturalistic as you can without making it too hard to see the fish and get them out when the time comes.

Fake plants make great QT/display decorations. :) So do PVC tubes and other plastic decorations, just not to the exclusion of at least some rock.
 
is there a reason youre so against not just throwing some food in there to cycle your tank? easiest way to kick start your cycle. you could always throw some crabs in there to eat your "rotting food"

Honestly, for quick-cycling a 10G hospital-style tank ammonia is probably a really good way to go. In general, I agree with you though. :)

Sounds like the OP might be shifting gears a little now though. :)
 
I found this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/JAMES-AUSTIN...e=UTF8&qid=1498775411&sr=8-2&keywords=ammonia

And it's SDS:
http://austinsbleach.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Austins-Ammonia.pdf

1336-21-6 | 0.50-2.50% | Ammonium hydroxide
7732-18-5 | 97.50-99.50% | Water

Looks good to me.
As-needed for the hospital. It's arguable whether you keep the QT/display running after you're done stocking your main tank.....judgement call. :)

60G would be an amazing QT!! If it can be at least 10' from the main display, that would make it a perfect QT.

(If there's another space that's 10' from either display, then that's a great place for the hospital tank.)

I would make the QT/display as complete and naturalistic as you can without making it too hard to see the fish and get them out when the time comes.

Fake plants make great QT/display decorations. :) So do PVC tubes and other plastic decorations, just not to the exclusion of at least some rock.

That's the problem with the 60, it's like 6 ft away from the 135. I'll have to think about how I might rearrange things. I don't really want to bring the 60 upstairs... Weight concerns and just the hassle of being upstairs.
 
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