Flex hose plumbing

The standpipe is 1 & 1/2" and the reducer brings it to 1 & 1/4", which is the diameter of the bulkhead for the drain.


Is this the kit you have?
IMG_5251.JPG
 
Thanks! I've been looking all through everything to try and figure this out.
Amazon hose is up here and down in Miami so if you really wanted you can do a pick up. They are also less then using the spa hose that the big box stores offer or the flex pool hoses. I found the food grade braided clean hose over in the brew section of the site. If you have Amazon prime most of the fitting are next day with $35 worth same day purchases. FYI Amazon.com and Amazon hose are two different companies.
 
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PS I also just learned that the measurement of the PVC pipe is not the actual size. go figure.
go with calipers and use ID measurements
 
So let me throw this out. If I scratch my back and forth ideas and do this:
1 bulkhead, 1", slip
1 bulkhead, 3/4", slip
PVC Pipe, 1"
PVC Pipe, 3/4"
Appropriate number of elbows
a 1" union
a 3/4" union
Purple stuff and PVC glue
a 1/2" threaded female to 3/4" slip adapter (from return pump)

Would I technically have all I need to put this together?
 
I got two 1 inch bulk heads that are slip by threaded. You could still use the inside parts from the kit but then you could do a hard plumb drain and a soft tubing for the return. Here is a picture of mine.

IMG_5560.JPG

You, sir, are playing with fire....and I like your style!

No clip on that hose??? OH man, that gives me a panic attack just looking at it.

I learned my lesson back in 10th grade - so....20+ years ago. I'm old.

I woke up to feed the fish and got a good amount of food in the tank before I realized I was standing in a puddle of water on my carpet. The tube to my EHEIM had worked itself loose. Now, granted, it was also assembled with a bend adding torque to the connection (which they've since corrected), but tubes work themselves loose because they like to see the world burn.
 
go with calipers and use ID measurements

I don't have calipers, but i do have a very precise ruler. But the thing is, the PVC Pipe that says it's a 1" pipe, actually measures internal diameter at 1.125. So this is a 1" pipe, true and true?

Thank you all so much for replying. This has been driving me nuts for days. I can only work on this project on weekends and it's seriously holding me up
 
You also want to grab one of the hand-held type PVC cutters. They are made cheap, but should give you enough clean cuts to get through the job...and only like $15 or so. People use the Red Hot glue - it's great.

My advice - draw out exactly what you want it to look like - forget scale for now, just draw it. It should go:

-Bulkhead to PVC
-PVC to union (leave just a little bit of room between PVC and union, enough to cut off the pvc if you need to replace bulkhead).
-Union to more PVC - then to your elbows etc. Remember, you want drains as clear a shot as possible and you'll lose head pressure with each 'turn' on the return as well.
-Put a quality gate valve on the drain line - this is how you tune your overflow if you want to go full siphon silently.
-Gate valve to PVC - terminating about an inch below your water level in the sump.

Return is the same but you don't need a gate valve. I also put a union close to the pump (in addition to the one near bulkhead), so so cleaning etc. is easy.

Draw that on a piece of paper - take paper to store - dry fit stuff to make sure size is right....and open the windows or the garage door with the glue.

When measuring - dry fit is never as tight as glued...so measure knowing that you can get pipes closer together just a bit.

Good luck.
 
You also want to grab one of the hand-held type PVC cutters. They are made cheap, but should give you enough clean cuts to get through the job...and only like $15 or so. People use the Red Hot glue - it's great.

My advice - draw out exactly what you want it to look like - forget scale for now, just draw it. It should go:

-Bulkhead to PVC
-PVC to union (leave just a little bit of room between PVC and union, enough to cut off the pvc if you need to replace bulkhead).
-Union to more PVC - then to your elbows etc. Remember, you want drains as clear a shot as possible and you'll lose head pressure with each 'turn' on the return as well.
-Put a quality gate valve on the drain line - this is how you tune your overflow if you want to go full siphon silently.
-Gate valve to PVC - terminating about an inch below your water level in the sump.

Return is the same but you don't need a gate valve. I also put a union close to the pump (in addition to the one near bulkhead), so so cleaning etc. is easy.

Draw that on a piece of paper - take paper to store - dry fit stuff to make sure size is right....and open the windows or the garage door with the glue.

When measuring - dry fit is never as tight as glued...so measure knowing that you can get pipes closer together just a bit.

Good luck.

Thank you. This is exactly what I'm going to do. I unfortunately have a ton of useless tubing now, but I really want all of this to go well, esp. since I'm away from home a lot (travel for work) and leave someone else to do the work. Pretty good deal if you ask me. Anyway, this has all been very helpful.
 
You, sir, are playing with fire....and I like your style!

No clip on that hose??? OH man, that gives me a panic attack just looking at it.

I learned my lesson back in 10th grade - so....20+ years ago. I'm old.

I woke up to feed the fish and got a good amount of food in the tank before I realized I was standing in a puddle of water on my carpet. The tube to my EHEIM had worked itself loose. Now, granted, it was also assembled with a bend adding torque to the connection (which they've since corrected), but tubes work themselves loose because they like to see the world burn.

Bahaha. That hose isn't going anywhere. I warmed the end of the hose with a blow dryer and stuck it on the end of that barb. Not a fan of the claps lol. Rebel.
 
I don't have calipers, but i do have a very precise ruler. But the thing is, the PVC Pipe that says it's a 1" pipe, actually measures internal diameter at 1.125. So this is a 1" pipe, true and true?

Thank you all so much for replying. This has been driving me nuts for days. I can only work on this project on weekends and it's seriously holding me up

The ruler works well, and with all the odd size end of the fitting is kind of why I went the hose company route. I could not find one inch id for the return and the 1.25 overflow is started with was and sump line that one uses in the back yard or in a basement, and was very thin and would get holes in it just trying to run it through walls. I did use the barbed gray pvc connectors from ACE Hardware with stainless hose clamps and I will be switching those out with either the plastic clamps or zip ties.
 
I've plumbed two tanks with spa-tubing (flexible PVC) and with flexible vinyl tubing. The ease of bending the tubes and using hose-barbs instead of PVC-glued joints is tempting, but in the long run I think it's easier and safer to hard-plumb with PVC.

Folks have given you good advice - replace your barbed bulkheads with higher quality slip/slip bulkheads. Buy some solid 1" and 3/4" PVC tubing, elbows, and unions. Spend some time learning how to use PVC primer/glue. You'll be happier glueing PVC pipes and getting solid joints than fighting with hose-barbs, clamps, and leaks over time. Be sure to put unions in wherever you have system boundaries - just beyond the bulkheads and maybe at the sump depending on your plumbing. You'll be glad you have them later if you have to move/replace/clean any of the plumbing.

I plumbed my last tank with flexible vinyl tubing and it was a mistake. The vinyl tubing was too thin and kinked easily at sharp angles. Getting the tubing on the hosebarbs and clamped so it didn't leak was a hassle - I had to use boiling water to soften the tubing. Then, I had to move my tank and take it apart and it was impossible to get the tubing off the hosebarbs, so I had to cut it all. I wish I hard hard-plumbed it and installed unions. Would have saved me a week of hassles getting it apart and re-plumbing it.

Good luck! You should be able to buy bulkheads online and then get PVC/fittings locally at Home Depot or similar.
 
I've plumbed two tanks with spa-tubing (flexible PVC) and with flexible vinyl tubing. The ease of bending the tubes and using hose-barbs instead of PVC-glued joints is tempting, but in the long run I think it's easier and safer to hard-plumb with PVC.

Folks have given you good advice - replace your barbed bulkheads with higher quality slip/slip bulkheads. Buy some solid 1" and 3/4" PVC tubing, elbows, and unions. Spend some time learning how to use PVC primer/glue. You'll be happier glueing PVC pipes and getting solid joints than fighting with hose-barbs, clamps, and leaks over time. Be sure to put unions in wherever you have system boundaries - just beyond the bulkheads and maybe at the sump depending on your plumbing. You'll be glad you have them later if you have to move/replace/clean any of the plumbing.

I plumbed my last tank with flexible vinyl tubing and it was a mistake. The vinyl tubing was too thin and kinked easily at sharp angles. Getting the tubing on the hosebarbs and clamped so it didn't leak was a hassle - I had to use boiling water to soften the tubing. Then, I had to move my tank and take it apart and it was impossible to get the tubing off the hosebarbs, so I had to cut it all. I wish I hard hard-plumbed it and installed unions. Would have saved me a week of hassles getting it apart and re-plumbing it.

Good luck! You should be able to buy bulkheads online and then get PVC/fittings locally at Home Depot or similar.

Thanks! I ordered two new bulkheads from BRS, a 1" and 3/4" and after reading they look like they'll fit. I also picked up the primer, cement, and extra tubing so that I can play a little and practice. Got pvc cutter. Ordered 1" and 3/4" tubing, elbows, and unions.
 
I see you just ordered two new bulkheads from BRS.....are you sure these will fit in the holes drilled in the glass?

Anyway, the reason I'm back is that I was digging through the hundreds of pipe fittings I have and came across one of those barbed bulkheads.....didn't even know I had one....most have replaced on someones tank a while back. Anyway, even though they have the barb on the outside, the inside diameter fits standard pipe.

 
I see you just ordered two new bulkheads from BRS.....are you sure these will fit in the holes drilled in the glass?

Anyway, the reason I'm back is that I was digging through the hundreds of pipe fittings I have and came across one of those barbed bulkheads.....didn't even know I had one....most have replaced on someones tank a while back. Anyway, even though they have the barb on the outside, the inside diameter fits standard pipe.


I did check the measurements of the new bulkheads, I used the BRS ABC measurements- so they'll fit. If I use the barbed ones that came with it, I'd have to drop the size of my drain line from what I measured.

Then The return line also would be way too small from what I can tell.
 
Good luck, please post back once all the parts arrive and you get things together.

It's no fun doing plumbing (at least for me), but I think you'll be happy you did this right once you've got water in the tank.
 

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