Float Level Switch In Skimmer Cap

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The programming isn't the issue, my question is, for those of you using the GHL Level Sensor in the cover of the skimmer, how did you accomplish this? The nut that secures the sensor is to small to fit over the DIN plug. I have a solution, or so I think, but I would like to know/see how others have done it. Pic please!
 
a picture of what you are referring to would help. But to install a float switch on a skimmer lid you need to install the unit then assemble the plug. If the plug comes pre assembled then you might need to take it apart or cut it and patch it.
 
Also this thread might help you.
 
a picture of what you are referring to would help. But to install a float switch on a skimmer lid you need to install the unit then assemble the plug. If the plug comes pre assembled then you might need to take it apart or cut it and patch it.
Sorry if I didn't make myself clear, I described using a GHL float sensor, plug attached, the nut is to small to fit over the DIN plug, so you can't take the nut off. The float would be hanging down, vertically from the skimmer's collection cup cap, and WITHOUT cutting the plug off, how are people doing it. I don't have pictures, since I haven't done it yet.
 
Also this thread might help you.
Thanks for the link, that would be plan B if I can't use the GHL float without cutting it.
 
Ok, got ya. The GHL float sensor.

This:
6E6DB425-DFEF-4205-B799-9FED05F43B9D.jpeg

Only way to do what you want is cut the wire and then reassemble.

I was going to set up a skimmer using a Amazon purchased float sensor and the ADIN card and set up like in the link I posted. But ended up upgrading to a skimmer that has the float sensor built in.
 
Ok, got ya. The GHL float sensor.

This:
6E6DB425-DFEF-4205-B799-9FED05F43B9D.jpeg

Only way to do what you want is cut the wire and then reassemble.

I was going to set up a skimmer using a Amazon purchased float sensor and the ADIN card and set up like in the link I posted. But ended up upgrading to a skimmer that has the float sensor built in.
In the end, I might end up going that route also. That's how I had it set up once before. Thanks for the help.
 
In the end, I might end up going that route also. That's how I had it set up once before. Thanks for the help.
Well, essentially what you need to be able to do is make the hole big enough for the plug, and then make it smaller again. Because it doesn't need to be watertight that seems doable. Could you cut a rubber grommet to fit around the cable and squeeze that in?

Tony
 
Well, essentially what you need to be able to do is make the hole big enough for the plug, and then make it smaller again. Because it doesn't need to be watertight that seems doable. Could you cut a rubber grommet to fit around the cable and squeeze that in?

Tony
Thanks for the reply Tony.
I don't see why that wouldn't work. But thinking ahead to the future, in case I want to add another float or switch, I'm going to go with an PL-ADIN expansion card and a standard off the shelf float. I'll post pics when it's done.
 
I made a small acrylic bracket that bolted to one of the air vents on the lid and cut a slot in another for the cable to pass through. The nut and bolt were plastic from ebay. The slot doesn't impact performance (it's just a breather anyway).

The float switch is just hand tightened to the bracket and "slips" off easily if you want to remove the lid but leave the float switch (if your float switch cable is tucked away somewhere)

Skimmer cup float switch.jpg
 
NOTE: I found it by trail and error, but if you remove the circlip on the sensor and "flip" the moving part it inverts the switch's behaviour (on/off)
 
I made a small acrylic bracket that bolted to one of the air vents on the lid and cut a slot in another for the cable to pass through. The nut and bolt were plastic from ebay. The slot doesn't impact performance (it's just a breather anyway).

The float switch is just hand tightened to the bracket and "slips" off easily if you want to remove the lid but leave the float switch (if your float switch cable is tucked away somewhere)

Skimmer cup float switch.jpg
Nice simple solution, I like it. This more or less what I was thinking, just wanted to see how others solved the problem.
 
NOTE: I found it by trail and error, but if you remove the circlip on the sensor and "flip" the moving part it inverts the switch's behaviour (on/off)
Good reminder. I have done that before. So you know, as an alternative to flipping the float (which has a magnet inside, so basically you are swapping the North & South poles) you can "Invert" the function in the P4's programming.
 
Good reminder. I have done that before. So you know, as an alternative to flipping the float (which has a magnet inside, so basically you are swapping the North & South poles) you can "Invert" the function in the P4's programming.
Yeap - but rather than invert the program I thought it better to invert the switch's operation (so all the logic just makes sense).

Cheers
 
Deutsch plugs are your friend in the hobby. Really want a plug on the float somewhere near the lid otherwise you'll have to reroute the cable every time you clean the skimmer.

Deutsch plugs are water proof and secure connectors
 
I left the sensor cable in tact, but I did add a plug like you find on Jeabo's to the neck cleaner (to separate the 240V Swabbie).
 

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