Float switches or optical switches

Ecotech Marine

Which do you prefer and why

  • Optical switches

    Votes: 10 41.7%

  • Float switches

    Votes: 6 25.0%

  • Both

    Votes: 8 33.3%
  • Total voters
    24
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B-ridge

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i am debating getting rid of my float switches and going the optical route. I would be using the optical for the same as what I’m using my float switches for now. For ato and auto water change. I also have float switches in my 55 gallon saltwater drum. One high one low.
Curious to opinions where I may just leave it alone. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it but it could always be improved on
 
WWC
I am sure I will be shot down for this but, I sold my optical setup and am going back to a double float setup.

I never had a float setup with a failsafe overflow or not run. The optical one I was constantly fiddling with and hearing alarms go off. I sold it to a buddy for his freshwater setup dirt cheap.

I will post a tutorial when the parts get here next week or so.
 
I prefer optical, while they might get some debris/build-up on them, it is a very quick wipe down vs a float switch getting stuck with salt creep.
 
Chewy.com
I must just be lucky. No I am not being condescending. I am being serious. Never in 20 years of using float switches (all DIY I might add) did I have an issue with creep or snails. I had my optical for a year and hated it. So did the rest of the family. LOL.

(BTW, @Js.Aqua.Project I dig the headstock in your avatar. Is that for real?)
 
dantimdad said:
(BTW, @Js.Aqua.Project I dig the headstock in your avatar. Is that for real?)
Click to expand...
Haha, no...I got bored the other day and overlayed my rainbow chalice on the headstock of my Taylor T5...then threw in an outline of a Moorish Idol.
 
Last edited:
Tidal Gardens
I have used both, and mostly prefer the reed-style float switches. Depends a bit on the application, but I have found pretty regular false positives on the optical sensors if you don't keep them clean. Floats can gum up too, of course, but with less frequency. Regardless, switch redundancy is necessary. High water mark applications, where the sensors stay dry 99% of the time, I prefer optical; operational applications, where the sensors are wet and trigger regularly, I prefer floats. Pressure sensors work well in wet applications as well.
 
I’ll have to add that to the list. Any pictures of a pressure tube sensor and could you guys give myself and everyone else a idea of how it works?
 
ReefBot Lab, Automated Water Tester
B-ridge said:
I’ll have to add that to the list. Any pictures of a pressure tube sensor and could you guys give myself and everyone else a idea of how it works?
Click to expand...
When the water level in my sump rises too high, the pressure in the tube increases and shuts off the ato ( or what ever it’s hooked up to)
 
Top Shelf Aquatics
Top Shelf Aquatics
dwest said:
I’ve been using a pressure sensor on spectrapure liter meter 3 for about 20 years without fail. The link below is a newer version of what I use now.


https://spectrapure.com/LiterMeter-III-Top-off-Control-Module-Gen6
Click to expand...

I would second this. Ive used Spectra Pure LiteMeter for just about as long on so many different types of freshwater and paludarium setups. Never had one fail. I like the fact that one pressure sensor is for your water level and the other is a failsafe for overfill protection.

https://spectrapure.com/DOSING-TOP-...uto-Top-Off-System-with-Magnetic-Probe-Holder
 
dantimdad said:
Ya know, for that price, it seems like a good deal. Couple that with a regular two float system and it would be almost (Dare I say it) fail proof.
Click to expand...
Just make sure that it will shut off what you need. I can plug my lm3 directly to the device. However, I couldn’t plug a normal 120v (like a power head) to it. I believe avast has 120v plug versions.
 
Nice. I was thinking it would have a 12v output to trip a relay. I learned the hard way not to ever use a float switch to directly start/stop a pump. ALWAYS ALWAYS use a relay!
 
Chewy.com
Hi B-Ridge,

I use both optical and mechanical float switches in three different systems. The only bad switch I have had came out of the package that way. Most of my mechanical float switches are about five years old. I think maintenance is the biggest part of making sure any of these function correctly. I did have the level switch on my ATK get dirty once, but the second switch did its job and turned off the pump. This was about a year ago. Now I wipe off the optical sensors once each month and I have had no problems.

I always try to set switches so that if they fail they will be in the open position. I set all of my programming so that the pumps only run in the closed position. This is a good way to make sure a pump does not stay on and flood anything if the switch is bad. It is also a good idea to have a jumper on the breakout box so that you can have an alarm if that channel suddenly is open. This can notify you to a failed breakout box before you have a problem. I would not be afraid of using either type of switch with proper maintenance and programming.
 
AI Hydra

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%

  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%

  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%

  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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