Floor Load Capacity 139Gallons set up

[Shaady]

So I feel like the official answer will be, check with structural engineer, but I'm gonna ask for opinions anyways.

I was initially looking at a smaller tank, now that I am thinking of going bigger, weight capacity is now a concern as this is on the first floor . I am looking at a red sea 525xl (total system capacity 139 gallons)

North of this picture is a finished basement but the picture represents the crawlspace under it The floor joists are supported by the cinderblock wall that goes straight to the basement foundation.

Tank will sit a few inches off the wall so i can reach back there, total room length is approx 13ft

Does this seem a safe set up?

Yellow= 2x8 floor joists, 16in center
Blue = Tank position (139 gallons)
Black = Drywall
Red= Cinder block load bearing wall

 

[homer1475]

I think you'll be fine. I would do it without hesitation.

But I'm also not a structural engineer.

 

[Dbichler]

You could use one of these with a 2x6 and have no worries

 

[mehaffydr]

I would have zero concerns about this installation unless the house in 100+ years old and there is wood rot in the joists.

 

[ApoIsland]

So I feel like the official answer will be, check with structural engineer, but I'm gonna ask for opinions anyways.

I was initially looking at a smaller tank, now that I am thinking of going bigger, weight capacity is now a concern as this is on the first floor . I am looking at a red sea 525xl (total system capacity 139 gallons)

North of this picture is a finished basement but the picture represents the crawlspace under it The floor joists are supported by the cinderblock wall that goes straight to the basement foundation.

Tank will sit a few inches off the wall so i can reach back there, total room length is approx 13ft

Does this seem a safe set up?

Yellow= 2x8 floor joists, 16in center
Blue = Tank position (139 gallons)
Black = Drywall
Red= Cinder block load bearing

Go for it. If a couple 2x8 can’t handle 2000 lbs there is something seriously wrong with that lumber.

 

[Dbichler]

I agree probably no issues without anything but what’s the cost of piece of mind. I mean $100 dollars now or possibly $1000’s later.

 

[Brian_68]

It would be easy and reasonably cheap enough to double up those 4 2x8 under it if you have access and you would never need to worry. I have seen water get into the header and floor joists on a house rotting the bottom of the wood sitting on cinder block so every scenario is different. That would be one surprise if the tank sat against that wall.

 

[flagg37]

From your drawing I would assume that the floor joists are being supported by the concrete wall?

If so, there would be no problem.

 

[theMeat]

As a contractor of 30 years can say you are absolutely fine if everything is in good shape. While the floor will hold the weight without question you might get bouncing when someone walks through the room. Bracing should remedy that and is a good idea either way.

On a 13’ span I’d be surprised if there wasn’t at least one row of bracing, but placing another row around abouts across where the front of the tank sits

 

[Shaady]

It would be easy and reasonably cheap enough to double up those 4 2x8 under it if you have access and you would never need to worry. I have seen water get into the header and floor joists on a house rotting the bottom of the wood sitting on cinder block so every scenario is different. That would be one surprise if the tank sat against that wall.

annnnd now I'm nervous lol. I hate water damage and piping as I think everything I make will leak. I was already not happy thinking about how to plumb from a salt station in the basement up to the tank for fear I would have leaks.

 

[Shaady]

From your drawing I would assume that the floor joists are being supported by the concrete wall?

If so, there would be no problem.

That is correct, supported by concrete wall

 

[Cell]

As a contractor of 30 years can say you are absolutely fine if everything is in good shape. While the floor will hold the weight without question you might get bouncing when someone walks through the room. Bracing should remedy that and is a good idea either way.

On a 13’ span I’d be surprised if there wasn’t at least one row of bracing, but placing another row around abouts across where the front of the tank sits

Is one of those 3 methods preferred or do it all?

 

[Shaady]

As a contractor of 30 years can say you are absolutely fine if everything is in good shape. While the floor will hold the weight without question you might get bouncing when someone walks through the room. Bracing should remedy that and is a good idea either way.

On a 13’ span I’d be surprised if there wasn’t at least one row of bracing, but placing another row around abouts across where the front of the tank sits

Thanks for the feedback. Just went to check no bracing but easy enough to add. Everything does look in good shape.

 

[theMeat]

Is one of those 3 methods preferred or do it all?

My first choice would be cross bracing, second would be block, strapping the easiest. Any one of them will do more to stiffen up the floor than doubling up the joists.
Aaannd don’t worry. On top of the cement or cinder block wall there is a piece of lumber, probably pressure treated if house was built in the last 30 years, that’s called a sill plate. This wood. because it lays flat, is most likely to show any damage first. If you can get under there to install bracing you can also check out the sill plate. Since the house, roof and all sits on the sill plate, your fish tank isn’t the concern ,,,
It also takes alota water events and the wood staying wet for long periods of time before rot sets in. If the crawl space is dry I’d put money on the wood is stronger now than it was when new
Post up some pics with progress

 

[theMeat]

If you do solid blocking stager each support so they don’t line up straight. This will allow you to drive nails straight through joist into blocking without toe nailing. Oh, use nails not screws. They allow for expansion/contraction and better sheer strength

 

[ScottB]

Your pic and description is very helpful. I would have absolutely no concerns at all. I doubt you will even see any deflection for many years if ever. If so, just lift the front leveling feet. My 525 is level after 9 years.

And YES, do plumb a 1" water line. You will be thanking yourself every two weeks for the rest of that tank's life. I have my mixing station in the basement as well as a sewer waste line. When I do a WC, I flip a valve open in the sump and pump it out to the waste line below. Then flip the basement valves and fire a pond pump that refills the tank. 15 minutes. Easy peasy.